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So I just bought a camper trailer (Jayco slx 195RB baja edition) it is at the upper weight limit for a jkur ie 3500 max gvwr. I wanted a smaller one but my wife and I are going to live in it for 5 to 6 months starting April 5 so this was as small as we felt we could go without ending up in prison for spousal abuse (she would have probably killed me in my sleep :)). So my question is what are people doing for the plug in connections for a 7 pin? I use my jeep as a jeep so if I mount it like most that I have seen it will get crushed off road If I could get by with the factory 4 pin I would be ok but from the trailer places tells me I need the 7 pin mounted close to the receiver hitch. I can not really see any good place to mount one. I don't feel like it is a good idea to run without a brake controller on a 3000-35000 trailer.
 

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So I just bought a camper trailer (Jayco slx 195RB baja edition) it is at the upper weight limit for a jkur ie 3500 max gvwr. I wanted a smaller one but my wife and I are going to live in it for 5 to 6 months starting April 5 so this was as small as we felt we could go without ending up in prison for spousal abuse (she would have probably killed me in my sleep :)). So my question is what are people doing for the plug in connections for a 7 pin? I use my jeep as a jeep so if I mount it like most that I have seen it will get crushed off road If I could get by with the factory 4 pin I would be ok but from the trailer places tells me I need the 7 pin mounted close to the receiver hitch. I can not really see any good place to mount one. I don't feel like it is a good idea to run without a brake controller on a 3000-35000 trailer.
As far as mounting I would say a few will recommend where to mount that. As far as brakes go I would not take that trailer out of my driveway without working trailer brakes.
 

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I mounted mine on the face of my rear bumper, which is an Ace bumper. I would think you could do the same with your rear bumper as long as it has a small flat area near the receiver. That's going to be a lot to pull with your jeep.
 

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I mounted mine on the face of my rear bumper, which is an Ace bumper. I would think you could do the same with your rear bumper as long as it has a small flat area near the receiver. That's going to be a lot to pull with your jeep.
can you send me a photo of how you did it? thanks. yes it is at the upper end but we sold our house and are going to live in it for 5 or 6 months so that was as small as my wife would allow. I have a 14 kur with auto and 4.10's so it will make do. I figure for what I would have had to pay in rent for 6 months I will have paid for the camper and will recoup some of my money when we are done with it. This is a temporary thing well we build our new house. Funny thing is I have seen the jkur trailer tow ratings higher in other countries than the 3500lbs that we get.
 

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I just did this a few weeks ago.

1. Mounted a 7-Pin/4-Pin connector where the original 4-pin connector was.

2. Ran a 12 gauge 3 conductor black outdoor extension cord from it under the frame to the engine compartment. Black to a 30 amp fuse on the positive battery terminal, White to negative, and Green into the cabin for the electric brake feed.

3. Mounted a Tekonsha P3 brake controller on the lower center dash.

It all works very well. I'm pulling a Clipper 17FQ (2800 pounds empty) with it and it stops just fine. Pulling it is also "okay" as long as there isn't a stiff headwind but the Jeep doesn't like stiff headwinds even without a trailer. I don't plan on pulling it more than a couple hundred miles at a time anyway.





 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks that is pretty close to the same weight mine is a little more ~2900 lbs I just think for me that plug will get squashed pretty fast. I hate drilling a hole in my Shrockworks bumper but that might be what I have to do. I don't read german but it looks like our rigs tow 2000KG over there so about 4400 lbs which seems weird they would get higher ratings being they are so safety conscious over there. maybe I am reading it wrong.

Let me ask is your connection such that it could be easily moved if you were offroading?

http://www.jeep.de/preisliste/665.pdf
 

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Let me ask is your connection such that it could be easily moved if you were offroading?

http://www.jeep.de/preisliste/665.pdf
The original 4-Wire plugs into it, so just removing two screws and unplugging the 4-Wire connector from it is really easy. It's the other three wires that have to be added and I used butt connectors. If I had used a quick-disconnect then it would be fairly simple to remove it. But honestly, it's on the same plane as the hitch itself and very close so the hitch would take the brunt of any impact.
 

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I don't read german but it looks like our rigs tow 2000KG over there so about 4400 lbs which seems weird they would get higher ratings being they are so safety conscious over there. maybe I am reading it wrong.
To be honest, the JKU does really well pulling that trailer around town. It's when I get on the interstate with a stiff headwind and/or steep grade and sometimes it's downshifting to 3rd (or even 2nd!) to maintain 65mph. It seems to like 55-60mph much better.

But I also took a trip to the Rockies last week without the trailer and I was struggling in the Texas Panhandle with those 30+ mph headwinds - with the cruise set at 75 it would often downshift to 4th and even 3rd on level ground just because of the wind.

Jeeps just don't like wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To be honest, the JKU does really well pulling that trailer around town. It's when I get on the interstate with a stiff headwind and/or steep grade and sometimes it's downshifting to 3rd (or even 2nd!) to maintain 65mph. It seems to like 55-60mph much better.

But I also took a trip to the Rockies last week without the trailer and I was struggling in the Texas Panhandle with those 30+ mph headwinds - with the cruise set at 75 it would often downshift to 4th and even 3rd on level ground just because of the wind.

Jeeps just don't like wind.
Thanks. I can be patient and if I get in an area that I have to drive 55-60MPH Ill just pull over and let people pass. I most likely will just do short trips around here in it as it will be our home for ~6 months so probably mostly stay parked. thanks
 

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If you dont want to have a plug stuck to the bottom of your bumper, pull out the jack and you will see a drain plug under it. I fed my trailer connection through that and simply pulled it back up into the jack area when it wasnt in use.
 

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If you dont want to have a plug stuck to the bottom of your bumper, pull out the jack and you will see a drain plug under it. I fed my trailer connection through that and simply pulled it back up into the jack area when it wasnt in use.
i'll look at that. thanks
 

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I don't currently have a brake controller installed on my JKU but my other vehicle uses the 7 flat so I wanted to match plugs so I don't have to change my utility trailer plug. I think this is the same one pictured above that you just plug the 4 flat into the back of it. This is flush mounted in my e-auto bumper. Used a 2.25" hole saw to cut the hole. Hopefully the picture shows ok.
 

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I'm a big fan of the Mopar 7-pin kit. It's really simple to install and provides all the necessary wires running from engine compartment to bumper, and they are already in a loom and heat shielded. It also includes the blue wire to run into the cab for brake signal. The 7-pin will also trickle charge your camper battery while running down the road. It will also drain your vehicle battery if you leave it sitting in front of your house all night with the fridge running on 12V... Ask me how I know...

If your trailer wiring is long enough, could you mount it on your frame, up under the Jeep, just behind the bumper? I'm about to start fabbing up my rear bumper and haven't come up with a great solution other than incorporating it in.

I wouldn't worry about the weight of the camper near as much as the wind drag it's going to create. That could be the real azz kicker! We opted for the popup, but definitely not to live it! Great looking camper though!
 

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Here is how it is set up on an LoD bumper, the rear of the plug *just* barely clears the bottom of the frame cross member. Not sure how the Schrockworks bumper is setup, so be careful when drilling the hole.
 

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I got the harness installed and the control wired up. I just mounted the plug in on the bottom of my bumper until I can get a hole saw. what pain in the ass getting the brake pedal switch wire connected. I think you would need to be a contortionist in order to do it without needing physical therapy or a chiropractor. the mopar harness is pretty slick. I routed like the instruction said but after I was done I wish I would have ran it inside the frame but not going to mess with it for a while. Picking up my trailer in the morning so hope it works :). In 10 days I will be living in it with my wife 3 cats and a dog should be a real test of our vows lol.
 

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I didn't see if you chose a Brake Controller yet. Here's a great write up on the different types. I've used both styles and will always use a Proportional Controller! It is worth the extra time and money. I use the Primus IQ in both of my tow rigs they are an excellent Controller! 3 boost settings. Many times you can find that Primus IQ on EBay for around $40. On a side note do NOT use a fuse in your wiring!!!! Wire the power & ground to the battery and use a self resetting circuit breaker on the power side. When you use the brake actuator on the controller it amplifies the electrical power going to/through the vehicle into the trailer brakes. If you use a fuse, it will blow it and you'll have no trailer brakes. I learned this the hard way by having it "professionally" installed. I Ended up redoing everything myself.

FYI, A little trick for you, if you been driving on the interstate and are about to enter the city or mountains or hilly areas you can use the brake actuator to warm up the brakes on your trailer or camper so they have better stopping power if you need them going downhill or going through stop and go traffic.
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

http://www.alliedelec.com/e-t-a-circuit-protection-and-control-1160-02-30a/70128992/. These fit in a standard add a fuse harness.
 

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I'm using the Prodigy P3 controller - can't recommend it enough. I really like the adjustable BOOST function that applies more brakes during the initial/early part of braking. Not only that, it does a great job of proportional response (applies the brakes hard/lots of current when I get on the pedal.) I used the factory MOPAR harness and found the voltage drop to be significant (don't recall, but think it is on the order of 2V!) - to compensate, I increased the gain on the brake controller. On my other truck (where I used a #10 wire for the brakes), the brakes respond much better for the same trailers.

Mounted the connector directly to the plastic bumper (drilled a hole using hole saw that was approx the same size as the connector). It isn't the strongest connection (the plastic gives quite a bit when inserting the connector), but it does the job.

I used this PN bought off Amazon for ~$55 shipped:
82210214AB
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I didn't see if you chose a Brake Controller yet. Here's a great write up on the different types. I've used both styles and will always use a Proportional Controller! It is worth the extra time and money. I use the Primus IQ in both of my tow rigs they are an excellent Controller! 3 boost settings. Many times you can find that Primus IQ on EBay for around $40. On a side note do NOT use a fuse in your wiring!!!! Wire the power & ground to the battery and use a self resetting circuit breaker on the power side. When you use the brake actuator on the controller it amplifies the electrical power going to/through the vehicle into the trailer brakes. If you use a fuse, it will blow it and you'll have no trailer brakes. I learned this the hard way by having it "professionally" installed. I Ended up redoing everything myself.

FYI, A little trick for you, if you been driving on the interstate and are about to enter the city or mountains or hilly areas you can use the brake actuator to warm up the brakes on your trailer or camper so they have better stopping power if you need them going downhill or going through stop and go traffic.
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

E-T-A Circuit Protection and Control - 1160-02-30A - Vol-Rtg 12VDC 1 Pole Plug-In Cur-Rtg 30A Self-Resetting Therm Circuit Breaker - Allied Electronics. These fit in a standard add a fuse harness.
I went with a prodigy p3 and ran a 40 amp breaker from the hitch and a 30 amp breaker for the controller per etrailer.com
 

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I didn't see if you chose a Brake Controller yet. Here's a great write up on the different types. I've used both styles and will always use a Proportional Controller! It is worth the extra time and money. I use the Primus IQ in both of my tow rigs they are an excellent Controller! 3 boost settings. Many times you can find that Primus IQ on EBay for around $40. On a side note do NOT use a fuse in your wiring!!!! Wire the power & ground to the battery and use a self resetting circuit breaker on the power side. When you use the brake actuator on the controller it amplifies the electrical power going to/through the vehicle into the trailer brakes. If you use a fuse, it will blow it and you'll have no trailer brakes. I learned this the hard way by having it "professionally" installed. I Ended up redoing everything myself. FYI, A little trick for you, if you been driving on the interstate and are about to enter the city or mountains or hilly areas you can use the brake actuator to warm up the brakes on your trailer or camper so they have better stopping power if you need them going downhill or going through stop and go traffic. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx http://www.alliedelec.com/e-t-a-circuit-protection-and-control-1160-02-30a/70128992/. These fit in a standard add a fuse harness.

Interesting on the voltage drop, never crossed my mind. I would assume that drop would be relative to the size of the magnets inside the drums and how much draw they create? Our little popup never weighs more than 2000-2100 pounds, so it always responds well, even on a lower setting, but wonder if a heavier trailer, or something with axles rated heavier would cause more voltage drop?
 

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Interesting on the voltage drop, never crossed my mind. I would assume that drop would be relative to the size of the magnets inside the drums and how much draw they create? Our little popup never weighs more than 2000-2100 pounds, so it always responds well, even on a lower setting, but wonder if a heavier trailer, or something with axles rated heavier would cause more voltage drop?
I mis-typed earlier...I should have said VOLTAGE and not CURRENT when talking about cranking up the GAIN.

Voltage drop is a function of the wiring size/resistance...the more voltage that is 'consumed' over the resistance of the wire, the less that is 'available' to the magnets. This can be overcome by increasing the 'gain' of the controller. The 'gain' actually controls the output voltage of the controller. So if you have let's say 13.4V available at the battery and you lose 2V to controller for a given current, at 100% Gain, the controller can only produce 11.4V. If you then have say 1.4V loss of voltage to the trailer or trailer brakes, the max voltage the brakes will see is 10V. In the case of the jeep, I saw 2V drop at the trailer connector when I used my buddies elec brake tester. (I don't recall the specs of the tester.) On my other truck with the heavier wire, I only saw 0.7V drop.
 
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