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I am new to the forum and have my first Jeep, 2014 JK Sport with everything factory stock, for now. I searched the forum tech threads to see if this question was asked prior, did not see it anywhere, so forgive me if this seems to be a redundant question for newbies.

The same dealer has been doing all my service work on Jenny since I bought her 1.5 years ago and now have 36K miles and took her in for oil/filter change last week. Dealer called me saying I was 16K over on my Tcase/differentials being serviced, draining fluids/flushing and refilling and wanted $400 to do it. First, O&M Guide only states to Inspect fluid levels at 20K and again every 40K thereafter & Replace Tcase fluids at 40K IF used for police, taxi, frequent offroading or frequent trailer pulling, which I do neither. LIGHT trailer pulled twice since new, never been off road, just like Jeeps and the 4X4 option for the rare snows we get. With that and KNOWING the dealer is more after flushing my wallet than meeting a factory recommended service interval, I still have the question since the O&M guide never really states when the fluids really should be replaced for a general purpose used Jeep, when should I drain and refill the fluids? Every 80K for strictly road/highway use?

I did see on this forum where others have had the same 'flush fishing' recommended to them by other dealers ( seems to be a Jiffy Lube induced scam ), but never saw what is the true point of replacing the fluids.

I hate dealers are doing this. If I HAD to spend $600 every 20K miles ( They also recommended cleaning the throttle body every 20K for another $200 ) I would seriously have to rethink cost of owning a Jeep... the cost of dealer scamming would not leave room for tricking out / upgrades which I plan to do once factory warranty is out.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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Just go by what your manual recommends , can you preform any of these services yourself or have a friend help you to save On money?
Changing the diff and t- case fluid is not that difficult at all.
 

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I changed my differential fluids at 68k miles on my 2010 jku and I use my Jeep in sand and deep snow. Stealer/dealer wanted $400 for both...Yep $400. This is very easy to do yourself. Cost to do this myself was less than $42 and I know what dirty fluid is now. VERY EASY to do!!!
 

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Jeff,
Yep, there appears to be dealers that for some reason, feel the need to basically "psychologically" bowl over some customers by instilling these myths that your Jeeps innards will fall out and leave you stranded UNLESS you let them perform this VERY EXPENSIVE fluid change in both diffs and the T/C.

Now, just for info, yes, things wear, bearings, races, gears, shafts, and more so, is there or, are there evidence of this WEAR? Of course there is. Many of us that have performed our own diff and T/C service have seen the "fuzz" that is stuck all over the drain plugs. The fuzz is metal that is the wear from all those parts mentioned above.

The drain plugs are for the most part, magnetic. And therefore, will attract metallic "dust" (wear) from the parts. The "flush" that these dealers insist on is, a sort of "shower" for all the involved parts. Do they need this shower? Well, I'm no expert on this stuff what so ever but, if I had to guess, I'd say no.

I recently changed gears in our '15 JKUR from 3.73s to 4.56s and, was told to remove the break-in oil at or near 500 miles. Well, things being the way they are and me being me, I did it at about 1000 or maybe even around 1200 miles. I did not flush the gears and or housing. But, the drain plugs tat came out of both diffs, displayed some serious FUZZ on them. The fluid didn't look that bad at all. But the fuzz was there.

As for the T/C which, had zero work done on it so, it was the original fluid and had 35,000 miles on it. When it drained, it looked like it was draining from a brand new can of ATF. It was that clean and clear. But, I put new ATF in anyways. As for the two diffs, I just put in some standard, non-synthetic 85-140 gear lube. Both diffs are performing flawlessly, including locking and unlocking if and when I need them to for off road obstacles. I think the total cost of me doing it, was around oh, maybe $10-$12 or so.
Scott
 

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It is not just a Jeep thing I will bet this same dealer recommends this same service to any vehicle's in for service, I am amazed he didn't recommend annual drive line rotation and gumage reset for another $400.
 

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so i did my diffs around 65 000km and found the rear diff oil black. The front was still a clear gold color. my recommendation would be to change the rear every 2+ years yourself if you do your own oil changes. you will need a fluid pump to make your life easier.

did my T case back in october and found the fluid to be still a red color (mopar ATF4). T case shifter did feel better though. I think FCA under fills the T - cases as I put in more fluid then I took out.
 

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Dealerships will always recommend extra and not needed or exorbitant repairs because that's what they are told to do. Back to your Maint.

I change my transmission/manual fluid and my differential every March. Every other oil change I drop in a chemtool in the fuel tank to clean the system. Read your manual and go by that if you are unsure. If you are able to do maint. yourself (physically) able I recommend it as you get to know your Jeep and learn new skills.

ALso I recommend Amsoil for transmission and diff fluid if you have manual.

GL bro.
 

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I usually do diffs and t-case each 30k for all 3 vehicles I own. These days most vehicles including the JK have a diff drain plug so you really shouldn't even have to remove the cover. In fact the JK is extra easy because you can get to all of them without removing a bunch of other stuff like on the 4runner or QX56.

It's super easy to do if you just buy a pump with a hose that will attach to your bottle, or even one of those screw on tubes with a valve at any auto parts store.

I prefer amsoil synthetic 75w-90 in the diffs and then Mopar in the t-case, whatever they call for - probably an ATF but I haven't had to do mine in a while so don't remember the spec offhand. Even using quality synth you would be saving hundreds over the dealer.

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