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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, i broke down and installed my Springtail Solutions M-pac Tailgate Table today....... in Sub-zero weather.

Packaging was great, nice heavy plastic bags, some foamy sheets to keep the parts from rubbing, and lots of peanuts.

I did the pre-assembly yesterday, and didn't think to snap any photos of that (sorry guys). The instructions are clear, full of handy install tips, and printed on a nice heavy stock paper. I recommend reading them in full before beginning your install.

One point that i would like to add, is that you may want to clean out the "shoulder bolt" holes, prior to installing them. They are a tight fit, and the powdercoat in them makes it even tighter. Doc warns about the tight fit, the instructions are truly a modern marvel.

There's been a one update since the original install video. It looks like Doc has added 2 more inserts for the bottom making a total of 8.

I also got a full set of spare inserts, but no extra screws. It would have been nice to have an extra screw/washer or 2, i nearly lost one in the snow. Thankfully i was able to find it.

There was one detail that i think could have been done a little better in manufacture. I found that several of the holes in the M-pac grid (the Molle portion) had small burrs in them.

The burrs on mine are tiny but very sharp, even after powdercoating. They will snag fingers (ouch), and make weaving Molle straps more difficult. Perhaps even causing damage to the straps as you pull them through. A few extra minutes with a file and a cloth to find snags before powder is all it would take to clean these up.

Overall I give the Springtail Tailgate table a strong 8.5/10 so far. It's sturdy, Well thought out, with good design, and fantastic instructions. It loses points for the burrs in the grid, and lack of a spare screw/washer.







I've got a wide variety of Molle bags with various types of straps to test on it once the weather warms up a bit, so stay tuned in a few weeks to see how they fit.

 

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Fantastic review! I really appreciate this type of post, even for items that have been covered before -- just to get some fresh attention and perspective. Bummer about the burrs.

This table is right near the top of my list of "JK things I don't yet have a use for but will probably buy anyway".
 

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Nice!

Any thoughts around loading the table up while on stock hinges? My tires are still stock, but I get nervous anytime I add weight to this area.
 

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Great review. I'm thinking I want to add a tailgate table and I really like the Springtail storage racks too.

I've got several extra wires running under the black trim piece (CB antenna and license plate light wires). Do you think they would fit under the rack or is it too tight back there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice!

Any thoughts around loading the table up while on stock hinges? My tires are still stock, but I get nervous anytime I add weight to this area.
I honestly have no idea. I don't feel that the tailgate hinge will be an issue after seeing larger tires on the stock hinges, He mentions a 40 pound weight limit. That should be fine i think.

The clips do have a nice sheet metal thick shoulder on them. Maybe they could grab better if they expanded a bit more like a wall anchor behind the slots, but i don't see any real problems. Plus id they did, the'd be challenging if not impossible to remove. If you're worried, keep the heavy stuff closer to the tailgate when the table is opened. that will maximize the force down instead of pulling outward at the top where weight is more likely to be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fantastic review! I really appreciate this type of post, even for items that have been covered before -- just to get some fresh attention and perspective. Bummer about the burrs.

This table is right near the top of my list of "JK things I don't yet have a use for but will probably buy anyway".
Trust me it's more useful than you'd think. Without molle bags, the table can be closed in table mode. Grocery bags come to mind...

lol

When my fingers can work properly again (burrr cold...), i'll be testing every bag in that photo to ensure that there are no problems. Obviously the Slick-sticks will not work. but that's to be expected when mating soft webbing to a solid metal surface. But the 5.11 bags Straps with it's stiff plastic inserts could pose an issue.

The burrs do suck. I shouldn't need to smooth and repaint when it takes a few minutes of QA to clean the grid up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great review. I'm thinking I want to add a tailgate table and I really like the Springtail storage racks too.

I've got several extra wires running under the black trim piece (CB antenna and license plate light wires). Do you think they would fit under the rack or is it too tight back there?
It really depends on the thickness of the wires. On the left side, the rack backing sits flush with the tailgate over the channel. There is some wiggle room, because the inserts grab even if the backing is not perfectly flush.

Essentially, once the thickest part of the screw is past the shoulder on the insert, it's reached it's maximum strength. So even if the wire extends past the channel, it's still pretty strong. In fact it might even be a little stronger if there's a bit of a "spacer" there. I'd be sure to re-snug the screws after some warm weather if you have a "thicker than the channel" wire behind it as the wire's sheath will compress over time while warm.

The table straddles a ridge in the tailgate close to the right side. It works something like a ramp. so the right side has a bit more depth than the hinge side where it straddles the crease. It's flat again after that crease though.

In either case, there's some foam strips to the back side of the mounting plate to prevent noise and paint damage. Wire keeping the left side a little further away from the paint, certainly can't hurt and shouldn't create any rattles.
 

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Thanks! That helps. I can probably squeeze them back there.
 

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Fantastic review! I really appreciate this type of post, even for items that have been covered before -- just to get some fresh attention and perspective. Bummer about the burrs.

This table is right near the top of my list of "JK things I don't yet have a use for but will probably buy anyway".
I'm in the same boat. I keep thinking that I want it and will find things to attach to it. I do like that with the Tuffy Security Enclosure I installed recently anything I hang will be secure even with the top and doors off. I did get my girlfriend a Condor rip away pouch recently. She was complaining about not having a first aid kit so I got the bag, some EMT scissors and the Johnson & Johnson first aid kit from Walmart to fill it up as a start. Reading the other First Aid thread I definitely need to get a few more things to add.
 

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Love my Springtail Table.

I trimmed the black plastic Wire channel cover and snapped in back into place on the Left side near the hinge. I also made a Table top of sorts out of thick anti-static foam to fit down in the back side and cover the molle straps.
 

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Great review. Honest and clear. Thanks.
 

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Excellent, detailed review Tribble. I just got done installing my own Springtail and don't have much more to add other than to reiterate some of your suggestions and mention a couple of issues I ran into.

First off, I completely agree that you need to carefully inspect and clean out both the shoulder holes and index plunger holes. Despite multiple warnings from Doc in both the instructions and online video, I still managed to crack the index plunger because I struggled to get it to sit snugly against the "U" shaped washer. After quickly receiving a replacement part from Doc, I realized the powdercoated threads were the issue and, after running the index plunger through the threads a couple times, I was able to successfully and smoothly install the plunger.

The second issue I ran into was a stripped plastic blind insert, which prevented the back plate from installing flat against the tailgate. I believe this was a result of not spreading the insert wide enough with a flathead screwdriver before installing the insert. For my second attempt, I popped out the old insert, installed a new insert (thanks to Doc for providing a complete set of extra blind inserts!) and was back in business with a flush install.

The third (minor) issue I found is that my index plungers are two different lengths (likely caused by different spring tensions within the plunger). This creates an uneven latching effect, where I need to push harder on one side than the other. I tried bending the tab in that contacts the index plunger as instructed by Doc, but it doesn't seem to have made much of a difference. However, I can live with it.

I love the finished look in 4xfour's image above, so may have to trim the wire channel and add anti-static foam or a cutting board, as discussed in other threads. Overall, I'm extremely satisfied with the craftsmanship, look, and functionality of this great product!
 

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Good pictures and hints; thanks for that. Not trying to be an ass here, but you don't have the MOLLE straps attached properly and, once those bags have some gear in them and weight to them, they'll sag off the table. MOLLE straps are supposed to be interwoven at each intersection between the table and the pouch.
 

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Good pictures and hints; thanks for that. Not trying to be an ass here, but you don't have the MOLLE straps attached properly and, once those bags have some gear in them and weight to them, they'll sag off the table. MOLLE straps are supposed to be interwoven at each intersection between the table and the pouch.
It kind of depends....if you are not using velcro backed pouches (like our STAT bags), and you want them to come off fairly quickly...the above method is OK. They may sag a bit depending on what you put into them.

If you want them to stay put and to not sag...getting them threaded though the MOLLE backing a bit is paramount. The MOLLE straps will actually catch on the metal grid and help in retaining the placement of the pouch/Backing. See picture below for an example.



Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It kind of depends....if you are not using velcro backed pouches (like our STAT bags), and you want them to come off fairly quickly...the above method is OK. They may sag a bit depending on what you put into them.

If you want them to stay put and to not sag...getting them threaded though the MOLLE backing a bit is paramount. The MOLLE straps will actually catch on the metal grid and help in retaining the placement of the pouch/Backing. See picture below for an example.



Doc
Since the backing plate is metal, i've found that it's impossible to do a "perfect" weave on "tall" style bags. This is because standard length straps loose too much length making the weave in and out of the grid.

I've found that bags with 2 rows of webbing to weave like the 4 "Small" pouches are just about perfect. But as your bags get taller you have to compromise the weave by skipping grid rows.

For example my 5.11 "tall" pouch required me to be a little creative as you can see. However it's still very securely attached.





Now i can imagine that Doc could probably redesign the grid to better accommodate by using a press to push the weave bars out about a quarter inch. This would allow the straps on bags not to require a bend (which essentially shortens their overall length), but would also increase manufacturing cost.
 

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I got my Springtail Solutions tailgate table for my birthday Saturday, so I had to get it installed right away of course! I did it yesterday afternoon and it took maybe an hour or so. Here is my review.

UNBOXING
The box came packed up very nicely. Everything inside was protected and wrapped. All the hardware was in nice secure and sturdy bags and the powdercoated table parts were wrapped in protective foam. Everything held up great in shipping.

ASSEMBLY
The assembly instructions were pretty clear. It's nice that they really take time to clearly state not to overtighten the plungers, which I made sure I didn't. My plungers went right in with no issues with the powdercoating. I snugged them up and the locking nuts on the inside with no issues. The shoulder bolts I did the same. This is one area where you should make sure the shoulder bolts are tightened slowly and you tighten them in an alternating fashion going from one bolt to the other. If you tighten the one side down it pulls the table over to the side too much and makes it off center. Just tighten each side in small increments at a time switching back and forth to each side. Probably my only small instruction gripe is with some plastic washers they include for the shoulder bolts. They mention the washers go over the "outside" of the shoulder bolts, but I could not figure out what was meant by that and there were no pictures of how to mount them. The instructions did say they were "optional" so I just left them off. The rest of the assembly went smoothly with the paracord, just take your time.

INSTALLATION
Installation instructions say you should use two people, but I was able to do it by myself. Make sure you stretch out the clip fasteners as they state as it's imperative to give the screws an slot to fit into when starting them. Again don't overtighten the screws into the platic or they will strip out. I have one I tightend too much so I may have to swap that fastener out with another one. Thank you Springtail for giving us extra fastening clips, much appreciated. I tightened up the rest of them with no problems and was pretty much done. One installation issue I did find was with the trim pieces you install to prevent rattling. I had to install them towards the bottom of the table or I found they prevented the table from closing all the way because it was so tight. When I slid them down (closer to bottom shoulder bolts) I could then lock in the plungers. If the pieces are pushed farther up towards the plungers the table will not close and the plungers will not engage. Just be aware that trim really makes things tight, at least on mine. I'm thinking over time it will loosen just a bit....we'll see.

BAG INSTALLATION
The molle bags are awesome and fit nicely in the table slots. I wove the straps in as recommended to really secure the bags. For the record, I found no sharp burrs on my gate slots. It was a bit of a struggle to get the snaps done, but I eventually got them all snapped. I have no issues with the bag sagging too much if you install them the way they are supposed to be. I even have heavy stuff in my bags like my D rings, my tire iron and wheel sockets.

FINAL THOUGHTS
The table looks great and seems really secure. I love it as it gets all the stuff out from underneath my rear seat! The best part too is that there is no drilling into your tailgate. If you ever want to take it off just undo everthing and there is no harm no foul to your Jeep. Very cool. Overall though I am very happy with the table. Its obvious Doc and the engineers spent lots of time with a proper design that works very well. Kudos to @Springtail !







Edit: I noticed my cords are fed the wrong way on the backing bar so I am going to swap them so they run inside out. It will probably help with keeping the cord out of the way when folding.
 
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