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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

So long story short, if it turns out to be the cause of my issue, I may need to have my rear diff serviced (D44 with TrashLok, 3.21s). If this is indeed the case, I am contemplating just throwing in a TrueTrac in it's place.

So here's the question - I have gone through many threads regarding the TT, and seem to have gotten a lot of varying information. I am also aware that this would be a prime time to regear if I was considering doing so. If I want to upgrade to a TT, what exactly are the specific parts/part numbers (just the TT, carrier, etc. I can figure out the gears) I need, and what all would need to be done in the 2 different scenarios:

a) If I just stick with my 3.21s and toss in a TT

b If I do decide I want to (or can) regear in addition to the TT (probably either 4.10 or 4.56 max, never gonna go bigger than a 35 and even that'll be way down the road)


I just want to know exactly what needs to be done, as well as which parts I need. IE the drilling out of the TT holes, is that for 3.21 only or is that if you regear? And when would I need a new carrier? For the front only, with any ratio of regear, correct? (Front D30 now)

Thanks a bunch in advance; I just want to have the most accurate details and info compiled (or at least have all of the varying info gathered into one thread :p)
 

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I had a local shop install Trutracs when they 're geared me to 4.56. I also had them sleeve and gusset the front axle.

I love my set up and would do it again. In fact my TJ also has Tru-trac in both the axles as well.


I would regear at the same time.


The shop I used is East Coast Gear Supply in Raleigh NC.
 
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I too would regear, and go to 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 while you're at it. As far as the part numbers, they can be a bit confusing. Just call Eaton, give them the year and VIN # from your Jeep and let them tell you exactly what part number you need for the rear TruTrac. I would not put the money into the labor to replace the OEM LSD and stay with the factory 3.21:1 gears. You will be re-gearing if you go up to 35's so why open up the rear differential twice. Obviously doing it all at one time is a big hit to the wallet, but you'll be one and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I too would regear, and go to 4.56:1 or 4.88:1 while you're at it. As far as the part numbers, they can be a bit confusing. Just call Eaton, give them the year and VIN # from your Jeep and let them tell you exactly what part number you need for the rear TruTrac. I would not put the money into the labor to replace the OEM LSD and stay with the factory 3.21:1 gears. You will be re-gearing if you go up to 35's so why open up the rear differential twice. Obviously doing it all at one time is a big hit to the wallet, but you'll be one and done.

My bad, guess I could have mentioned, I've got a lifetime powertrain warranty to cover most or all of the servicing of the OEM junk. Which is why I'm trying to decide on going with the TT and possibly regearing, or just have them slap in another TracLoc and not worry about gearing at the moment.

Your points still stand though. If I did go up to 35s though it won't be for a good while as I just got my Falkens. Do you think 4.56 would be too much gear for a 255/80? Especially since I drive mostly highway on the daily.
 

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It's possible that you could void your warranty running 35's on stock 3.21's. You should look in to that. Most likely you will not be happy with your Jeeps performance on 35's with the current gearing. It is a $2000.00 or so cost in my area shops for that but a re-gear to 4.56 plus TruTracks would be the way to go in your case if you decide to do so. You and your jeep will appreciate it. I would not recommend 4.88 gearing in your Dana 30 front housing. I believe this is due to a smaller R&P and pinion shaft diameter and possibly less gear surface contact versus the 4.56 R&P setup in the same housing. Might be something else to check into before doing a re-gear as well.
 
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It's possible that you could void your warranty running 35's on stock 3.21's. You should look in to that. Most likely you will not be happy with your Jeeps performance on 35's with the current gearing. It is a $2000.00 or so cost in my area shops for that but a re-gear to 4.56 plus TruTracks would be the way to go in your case if you decide to do so. You and your jeep will appreciate it. I would not recommend 4.88 gearing in your Dana 30 front housing. I believe this is due to a smaller R&P and pinion shaft diameter and possibly less gear surface contact versus the 4.56 R&P setup in the same housing. Might be something else to check into before doing a re-gear as well.
The old 4.88 vs. 4.56 strength debate has been around about as long as CJ's have been around. The difference is minimal, if really measurable, and he's likely to break an axle shaft long before breaking the pinion gear running 4.88's in a D30. Not trying to argue or start a war, but there just isn't that much difference in strength, if you look at how the teeth are cut on a D30. Like I said, you're more likely to tear up a spline/break an axle shaft if you are really getting crazy with the skinny pedal.

Now, the OP might be happier with a 4.56 gear, but I wouldn't shy away from going 4.88 purely because of the strength issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All good info that I will keep in mind guys. Thanks.

But like I said, IF I did decide to run 35s, that wouldn't be til a few years down the road. And I would certainly regear then.

My main debate right now, I guess, is whether to just have the OEM LSD warranty serviced/replaced and stick with my 3.21s (with my current (new) 33s), or to look into swapping out to a TrueTrac and in conjuction likely regear while doing it. And that's what I was trying to ask in my original post: if I do the swap and regear, what would be all the steps I need to take and specific parts I'd need. IE new carrier for the front I think, need to drill out holes on the TT I think(?), etc.

There'd have to be some serious fund management going on if I decided to go TT and regear.....

AND this is all hypothetical - if the diff is the source of my clunking issue. Haven't gotten around to checking suspension yet; gonna try to make it over to the hobby shop on base this week/weekend so I can use a lift.
 

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We replaced the stock LSD with a TrueTrac, but we were also re-gearing at the time.
Itis your Jeep, but I would re-gear to 4.56 gears and replace the stock junk LSD with a TrueTrac. The stock LSD is not very good and can suffer issues. Also, it does not work well at all. While in there it makes sense to re-gear, especially if your stock gears are 3.21 gears. Those gears are really tall and your Jeep will perform much better with 4.56 gears.
We thought the 3.73 gears were too tall for stock 32" tires. It isn't cheap, but it is the most performance increase you can buy dollar for dollar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
We replaced the stock LSD with a TrueTrac, but we were also re-gearing at the time.
Itis your Jeep, but I would re-gear to 4.56 gears and replace the stock junk LSD with a TrueTrac. The stock LSD is not very good and can suffer issues. Also, it does not work well at all. While in there it makes sense to re-gear, especially if your stock gears are 3.21 gears. Those gears are really tall and your Jeep will perform much better with 4.56 gears.
We thought the 3.73 gears were too tall for stock 32" tires. It isn't cheap, but it is the most performance increase you can buy dollar for dollar.
All of this talk REALLY makes me want to regear, and honestly at this time I probably have more than enough funds saved up; I just wonder how that'll affect my lifetime PT warranty. That's the main reason I'm hesitant, but also right now, the performance is perfectly acceptable to me with the current setup (it's a daily driver now). So for those 2 reasons, that's why I was debating on tossing in a new Crap-Lok and calling it a day. I've only had the thing for a year, so still got about 3-3.5 more years of payments...and would like to keep the PT warranty intact AT LEAST throughout that time...

If I did, I'd be looking at what approximately?
>500-600 for the TT?
>400-600 for gears?
>100+ for new carrier (I think, for the front D30)?
>Then labor, I'd have to find a good shop nearby and I have no idea where to start. Found a couple possible leads in the OH forum but not much. But still, guessing anywhere from 900-1500?
 

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All of this talk REALLY makes me want to regear, and honestly at this time I probably have more than enough funds saved up; I just wonder how that'll affect my lifetime PT warranty. That's the main reason I'm hesitant, but also right now, the performance is perfectly acceptable to me with the current setup (it's a daily driver now). So for those 2 reasons, that's why I was debating on tossing in a new Crap-Lok and calling it a day. I've only had the thing for a year, so still got about 3-3.5 more years of payments...and would like to keep the PT warranty intact AT LEAST throughout that time...

If I did, I'd be looking at what approximately?
>500-600 for the TT?
>400-600 for gears?
>100+ for new carrier (I think, for the front D30)?
>Then labor, I'd have to find a good shop nearby and I have no idea where to start. Found a couple possible leads in the OH forum but not much. But still, guessing anywhere from 900-1500?
We had ours for just over a year before we re-geared. After re-gearing I wished I had done it sooner.
Cost wise depends on where you live and what the going rate is around you. For us, the cost of a basic re-gear in our area is around $1800 on average, plus the cost of the TrueTrac. There is no additional labor costs with the TrueTrac if you are re-gearing, just the cost of the TrueTrac. The two quotes I got were $2,200 and $2,300 for the re-gear and TrueTrac. I went with the $2,300 price because that shop was closer and more convenient. In the end, plans changed and we upgraded to a D44 out of a Rubi up front for even more money (it is never less money, is it....).
Anyway, Re-gearing prices tend to run from around $1,400 up to $2,000. Plus the cost of the TrueTrac(s).
Your local may have better or worse prices, but those are what I have seen / heard.
You can skip the gearing and just have the TrueTrac installed. That would probably be around half the price, depending on the shop. It would be around $500 or $600 less without the gears, and it should be about half the labor.

If you are going to a TrueTrac you don't need a new carrier. The TrueTrac is the carrier, in essence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We had ours for just over a year before we re-geared. After re-gearing I wished I had done it sooner.
Cost wise depends on where you live and what the going rate is around you. For us, the cost of a basic re-gear in our area is around $1800 on average, plus the cost of the TrueTrac. There is no additional labor costs with the TrueTrac if you are re-gearing, just the cost of the TrueTrac. The two quotes I got were $2,200 and $2,300 for the re-gear and TrueTrac. I went with the $2,300 price because that shop was closer and more convenient. In the end, plans changed and we upgraded to a D44 out of a Rubi up front for even more money (it is never less money, is it....).
Anyway, Re-gearing prices tend to run from around $1,400 up to $2,000. Plus the cost of the TrueTrac(s).
Your local may have better or worse prices, but those are what I have seen / heard.
You can skip the gearing and just have the TrueTrac installed. That would probably be around half the price, depending on the shop. It would be around $500 or $600 less without the gears, and it should be about half the labor.

If you are going to a TrueTrac you don't need a new carrier. The TrueTrac is the carrier, in essence.
I am considering that, just paying the difference to replace with a TT and calling it done. I wouldn't mind the regear but I don't know if it's a smart move financially for me at this time. Lot to think about...

Regarding the carrier(s), I feel ya. I think I had it confused. So here's two questions in that regard:
1) If I'm only looking to do the TT in the rear, then as you said the TT itself will be the carrier. So what is that issue of having to drill out its holes? Is that when keeping 3.21s or is that if you change to anything -besides- 3.21?
2) If I did decide to regear, wouldn't I have to get a new carrier for the front D30? (Or just put a LSD or locker up front as well)

Thanks in advance, appreciate all the help even though it's stuff you've probably typed/discussed way too many times. Just trying to keep it all straight and have all the facts and my ducks in a row.
 

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I am considering that, just paying the difference to replace with a TT and calling it done. I wouldn't mind the regear but I don't know if it's a smart move financially for me at this time. Lot to think about...

Regarding the carrier(s), I feel ya. I think I had it confused. So here's two questions in that regard:
1) If I'm only looking to do the TT in the rear, then as you said the TT itself will be the carrier. So what is that issue of having to drill out its holes? Is that when keeping 3.21s or is that if you change to anything -besides- 3.21?
2) If I did decide to regear, wouldn't I have to get a new carrier for the front D30? (Or just put a LSD or locker up front as well)

Thanks in advance, appreciate all the help even though it's stuff you've probably typed/discussed way too many times. Just trying to keep it all straight and have all the facts and my ducks in a row.
If the holes in the gear and the holes in the TrueTrac aren't the same size you would need to drill one or the other out to make them match. If you are paying someone to do the install, they would be the ones worrying about that.

If you aren't ready to re-gear yet I would wait until you are and get the TrueTrac then. If you have an issue with the current diff and it is under warranty and you aren't ready to re-gear let them fix the diff under warranty. Then when you are ready to improve your Jeep have it re-geared and install the TrueTrac(s). I would do it now if you can afford it. But if you can't afford to do it right, wait until you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If the holes in the gear and the holes in the TrueTrac aren't the same size you would need to drill one or the other out to make them match. If you are paying someone to do the install, they would be the ones worrying about that.

If you aren't ready to re-gear yet I would wait until you are and get the TrueTrac then. If you have an issue with the current diff and it is under warranty and you aren't ready to re-gear let them fix the diff under warranty. Then when you are ready to improve your Jeep have it re-geared and install the TrueTrac(s). I would do it now if you can afford it. But if you can't afford to do it right, wait until you can.
Understood. I guess the first step (well, besides verifying that the diff is trashed in the first place...) is to find some local shops and get quotes for the regear + TT. And simultaneously figure out if and/or how that might screw with my warranty.

OK last question for now then: which gears should I go with? I believe G2 and Yukon are the go-tos?
 

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iirc
you need a carrier to put a truetrc in
if the truetrac is being installed with 3.21 or 3.73 the holes for the ring gear must be drilled and tapped
however a 4.10 or higher ring gear just bolts up

and don't forget to do the axel seals while your in there
 

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iirc
you need a carrier to put a truetrc in
if the truetrac is being installed with 3.21 or 3.73 the holes for the ring gear must be drilled and tapped
however a 4.10 or higher ring gear just bolts up

and don't forget to do the axel seals while your in there


That is incorrect.
The TruTrac IS the carrier and is drilled for 7/16 ringgear bolts. If you have a Yukon or other aftermarket Ring gear it is drilled and threaded for both the 7/16” and 1/2” ringgear bolts. If you want you can drill out the holes in the TruTrac to run the 1/2” bolts. Personally I just ran the 7/16” bolts in the rear with 5.38 gears and no issues for over 100,000klm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Understood. I guess the first step (well, besides verifying that the diff is trashed in the first place...) is to find some local shops and get quotes for the regear + TT. And simultaneously figure out if and/or how that might screw with my warranty.

OK last question for now then: which gears should I go with? I believe G2 and Yukon are the go-tos?
Typically, if you re-gear the new gears aren't covered under your warranty. But everything else would still be. The gears would typically come with their own warranty.
But either way, as others mentioned, isn't it your Jeep? A warranty that stops you from doing what you want with your Jeep doesn't seem like a good idea. I have way to much invested in our Jeep to not do what I want with it.
Generally, if you are paying a shop to do the re-gear you want to use whatever gears they are going to use, as those are the gears they will warranty their work on. You normally buy the gears through the shop. There isn't normally an advantage to buying the gears yourself, unless the shop is trying to overcharge you. In that case, you should use a different shop.
The shop I paid to do the work on ours uses Yukon gears. The shop is pretty well known for good work, and I had zero issues so far with the work they did. Except they like to stake the pinion nut on and that made it harder to get off when I replaced the drive shafts. I hear they also do that with the pitman arm. But I really can't say that is a negative, it was just a little annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All good points and information; thanks a lot everyone.

So again, barring that my diff does indeed need serviced, I think at this point my course of action will be to start with trying to find good local shops and get quotes for the regear+TT. See if it's feasible and smart for me to get it done any time soon.

Else, since I just got my Falkens, and I personally feel like it drives fine currently, I may just have them service/replace the TracLok and pay little to nothing out of pocket. Then a little down the road, if/when I need tires again or just want to sell the 33s and maybe go 35s, I'll definitely look to regear and whatnot (and probably lift too). Plus by that time or even before, the TracLok will probably need replaced again anyway :p
 
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