I feel like there's a discussion about the differences of static torque, dynamic torque and power coming soon
Applying the service brake will simulate traction on both front and rear axles. My TJ has LSD both front and rear. I pull back on the parking brake handle one click to pressurize the rear factory LSD clutch disks. And I tap the service brake when I sense poor traction to multiply the effectiveness of both LSDs.I have an '00 TJ, LSD in the rear D44, open in the front. If I have a rear wheel in loose gravel spinning and the LSD is trying to move me forward with the other wheel that has traction, what is the front axle doing? I think you said the front and rear axles are locked together by the Tcase? So assuming the front wheels have equal traction so one of them is not spinning being an open diff, those wheels will be pulling while the LSD is trying to push?
Op was asking about truetrac which are an eaton/detroit helical lsd with no clutches iircyour jeep probably has LSD in rear and open in front
you tube has some easy video's to follow.to find out
rear LSD clutches may need to be replaced or upgraded for best performance.
I don't know what made me cringe more - the comment above or when you said "BLDs are almost equal to lockers in effectiveness" without any additional clarifying or qualifying statements... 😩Correct, I was just sayin' LSDs work pretty good when you modulate the brakes
Awesome info, thanks so much for your time and advice.I had a TJ with Truetracs front and rear in CO winters. For self described regular winter driving, locked diffs are asking for trouble.
The number 1 thing to do is a set of real snow tires. Number 2 would be careful use of 4 high. Number 3 would be LSDs. The gap between 1 and the rest is huge.
Motive power takes a back seat to stopping and road handling in the winter, I'm sure you know as an experienced winter driver. Tires have an effect on all 3, 4wd and LSDs only on motive. While it's a hassle to struggle getting moving, that pales to losing control on curves or at intersections.
So, given $1000 to spend, DM-V2s or some other winter tires. Open vs TTs is a smaller difference. You'll break traction with either setup in 2wd rather easily most of the time on packed roads. Hence judicious use of 4 high. 4 hi engaged when accelerating away, and off as much as possible otherwise. You'll notice some break away on curves in 4 hi as the lack of differentiation causes slippage as the bind needs to be relieved. Even then it's not common, as natural slipping is always occurring, but on a sharp bend it can happen. Mitigated to a degree by what should be low speed in winter, but something to be aware of. I had replaced the t-case linkage with the cable setup, so shifting 2wd to 4wd was a breeze. If I had the linkage, the constant shift on the fly would have been a headache.
Normal road scenarios, not offroad we're talking. Given my setup, with snows and f&r TTs, the TJ was a beast in the winter. I doubt I could ever get stuck and had total confidence when venturing out. From regular road to blasting through drifts.
If my F/R Truetracs had worked even "pretty good" while modulating the brakes in every which possible way over the couple years I owned them, I wouldn't have replaced both with lockers. The tougher the terrain, the less effective Truetracs are. They are awesome on slick mostly flat terrain but they truly suck when the terrain gets uneven enough to put a tire (or two) in the air. Terrain that is uneven enough to lift tires up off the trail is what drove me from Truetracs to lockers just over 20 years ago.Correct, I was just sayin' LSDs work pretty good when you modulate the brakes