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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 2014 Rubicon unlimited it has the 430n deck installed with an alpine sub in the rear. I am trying to add my Rockford fosgate amp and 2 12" alpine sub's . without removing any factory pieces. I have everything wired up temp because I don't understand how to get the sound signal into my amp.
I thought I'd just splice the wires going to the factory sub and put rca ends on but it doesn't seem to be working. It makes a few odd thumps and then I loose all sound. Any help is greatly appreciated. Here are pics of my temp install. I realize it needs to be properly wired for power and remote etc I think its because the factory sub is dual coil and has 4 wires that's what is messing me up
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I spliced into one set of wires going to my factory sub the green/brown and the grey/brown and I put and rca male plug on the other end to plug into my amp. It actually seems to be working as long as I keep the gain/volume low as soon as I try to turn it up it just pops and won't work. Should I splice into the other grey and green wires one would be left channel the other right? Soooo confused
 

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Sorry but I can't help much except to tell you to use search. I have read here on several occasions that the factory head unit does not have amp outs and you need to add a box that converts the speaker outputs to rca to supply your amp. However, I've also read the head unit filters out anything below 150hz so the sound potential is limited. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also drew this diagram of how I have it all hooked up it works as long as I don't turn my amp up at all. I realize its limited and certainly a jimmy rig but sound is sound why can't I just amplify the signal going to the factory sub that was my hope

ForumRunner_20140128_140322.jpg

Can u guys see the pics?
 

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Sorry, but the factory premium system takes a bit more work.

You will need some LOC's at a minimum....but there is more to it than that.
 

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I added a JL 8w3v2 to the stock enclosure but also a JL JX 250/1 amp an Audiocontrol LC2i signal processor. Here what I did: First I spliced into the subs factory wires. I did this beside the seat in the rear passenger side. The wires run along the side of the vehicle. I just cut the wires. I figured if I wanted to return the Jeep to stock later, I'd just use butt connectors. Next, I ran an 8 gauge power wire to the battery, along with an 18 gauge wire to power my Audiocontrol LC2i signal processor. I did this along the passenger side as well because the battery is on that side. There is a factory hole in the firewall above and to the left of the battery, under some stuff. There's a thread about it on here. It's a bit of a battle to run the wires. I used a coat hanger to feed it. Now, the beauty of the Audiocontrol unit is that it has a smart turn on circuit which takes speaker level inputs and creates a remote turn on output for the amplifier, and also converts the speaker signal to low level RCA for the amp. What you are doing-splicing into the speaker wires with RCA plugs will not work. You need a LOC (line output converter) which will convert the high level speaker inputs to low level RCA input. You can go cheaper and use a PAC line level converter, but the Audiocontrol unit also has a feature that recovers the lost bass in your factory system due to the factory bass roll off at higher volumes (to protect the stock speakers). After running the power cables for the amp and signal processor, I fused them under the hood. Ran the speaker wires from amp to new sub. Done. The great thing is the factory carpeting is easy to pull up! Hope this helps. Bottom line, you need some sort of line output converter.
 

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I added a JL 8w3v2 to the stock enclosure but also a JL JX 250/1 amp an Audiocontrol LC2i signal processor. Here what I did: First I spliced into the subs factory wires. I did this beside the seat in the rear passenger side. The wires run along the side of the vehicle. I just cut the wires. I figured if I wanted to return the Jeep to stock later, I'd just use butt connectors. Next, I ran an 8 gauge power wire to the battery, along with an 18 gauge wire to power my Audiocontrol LC2i signal processor. I did this along the passenger side as well because the battery is on that side. There is a factory hole in the firewall above and to the left of the battery, under some stuff. There's a thread about it on here. It's a bit of a battle to run the wires. I used a coat hanger to feed it. Now, the beauty of the Audiocontrol unit is that it has a smart turn on circuit which takes speaker level inputs and creates a remote turn on output for the amplifier, and also converts the speaker signal to low level RCA for the amp. What you are doing-splicing into the speaker wires with RCA plugs will not work. You need a LOC (line output converter) which will convert the high level speaker inputs to low level RCA input. You can go cheaper and use a PAC line level converter, but the Audiocontrol unit also has a feature that recovers the lost bass in your factory system due to the factory bass roll off at higher volumes (to protect the stock speakers). After running the power cables for the amp and signal processor, I fused them under the hood. Ran the speaker wires from amp to new sub. Done. The great thing is the factory carpeting is easy to pull up! Hope this helps. Bottom line, you need some sort of line output converter.
^^ You need the box to power the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys u were right all I was missing was a high to low level converter I purchased a cheap PAC for $20 and spliced the wires to the sub into that and then rca to my amp. It works much better as long as I don't go too loud or it still cuts out but with all 3 sub's I don't need it to go any louder really(it rattles everything pretty good and any louder would just blow the alpine subs anyways.. I only ran the setup this way because I don't want to spend any money right now and i had all this old gear laying around. Thanks again for the insights.
 

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Also I'm new to the forums I added 4 different pics using the app on my ancient android but I can't see them in the thread they just a appear as grey squares. Do u see them?
 

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Yes, can see pictures. You're ahead of me, I couldn't even find the damn factory amp.
 

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The factory amp on the new JK's with premium audio is behind/below the front driver side speaker.
 

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Sorry, but the factory premium system takes a bit more work.

You will need some LOC's at a minimum....but there is more to it than that.
This. You can't just tap into a line signal (oem speaker wire) and expect an RCA signal to come out. You need a LOC. Get one from Audiocontrol through crutchfield.
 

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Hmmm I just received my Kicker 40TCWS102 Sub still waiting on Kicker 12CX300.1 Amp .... Im getting it installed at a local audio shop for $60 and wondering if I should order the audiocontrol LC2i just incase he doesn't have it in his shop? I also have a 430n headunit if that helps ... I'll be replacing the overhead speakers tomorrow with 77kick10 and I purchased 2 pillows from target to polyfill :)
 

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Hmmm I just received my Kicker 40TCWS102 Sub still waiting on Kicker 12CX300.1 Amp .... Im getting it installed at a local audio shop for $60 and wondering if I should order the audiocontrol LC2i just incase he doesn't have it in his shop? I also have a 430n headunit if that helps ... I'll be replacing the overhead speakers tomorrow with 77kick10 and I purchased 2 pillows from target to polyfill :)
RubiChick, how did this work out for you?
 

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Hey!

You CAN use the factory subwoofer wires (speaker level), but not through the line level (RCA) inputs of your amp.....check if the amp has speaker level inputs....many do.....in this case you wouldnt need the high to low level converter (PAC)..

Later!
 
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