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Discussion Starter #1
So, before I get flamed... I have researched, I'm just wanting some advice and ballpark estimates on prices. I've got the BL& MML, now what else do I need to do and how much? Advise as always will be greatly appreciated.
 

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At minimum and with ballpark figures:

adjustable rear upper control arms (Rokmen) - $300
belly skid plate (UCF) - $265
slip yoke eliminator - $240
CV driveshaft - $350

Basic Total - $1155

That is no special pricing or intense searching. There are so many options out there, until you decide on a brand, you won't be able to nail down exact pricing, but that is a basic starting point.

That does not include the possible/probable things you might need......

low profile tranny mount - $135
shift linkage - $178


Depending on how tight/close/high of a tummy tuck you go with will determine the tranny mount and/or shift linkage. Some need both regardless. Before starting the install, I would plan on needing both additional parts just so I had the funds and time available for them.
 

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^ Excellent info above. I will add that if you do get a Transfer Case linkage kit, which I highly recommend, go with the Novak cable system.

I have an Advanced Adapters bracket that has been working great. The problem came when I installed my tummy tuck. The AA bracket hit the bottom of the tub when tucking everything up with a UCF skid. I had to use a BFH to pound some room for the bracket to fit.

Good luck with your project. :thumb:
 

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SYE and double cardan drive shaft

Adjustable upper and lower arms--don't skimp

If you've still got the track bar, you'll need a CV bracket and preferably a track bar that can pivot--Currie makes a great one

The skid--make one or buy one. Some are better-designed than others.

Transmission mount--you want to keep the drivetrain as low as possible while maximizing the amount of tuck

Novak cable shifter--don't even bother with the stock linkage. It can work fine if adjusted properly but it's the worst design in the world and is overly complex. KISS with the Novak shifter.

Areas you probably haven't thought of: Shock mounts and spring perches. When you rotate the pinion that high, you're putting a bow in the springs and the shock bodies will likely hit the lower coil buckets at full bump or at ride height, depending on how you've got the shocks oriented. You can almost be positive this will happen so while you're at it, it's a good time to move the coil buckets back so that your coils sit upright and outboard your shock mounts.

Something else to consider while you're at it if you've got disc brakes--flip the calipers to the front so that you don't have anything in the way of the lower shock mounts.
 

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At minimum and with ballpark figures:

adjustable rear upper control arms (Rokmen) - $300
belly skid plate (UCF) - $265
slip yoke eliminator - $240
CV driveshaft - $350

Basic Total - $1155

That is no special pricing or intense searching. There are so many options out there, until you decide on a brand, you won't be able to nail down exact pricing, but that is a basic starting point.

That does not include the possible/probable things you might need......

low profile tranny mount - $135
shift linkage - $178


Depending on how tight/close/high of a tummy tuck you go with will determine the tranny mount and/or shift linkage. Some need both regardless. Before starting the install, I would plan on needing both additional parts just so I had the funds and time available for them.
This looks pretty much on the money.:thumb:

I went with the Savvy Under Armor. I am very happy with it. Although it appears more expensive up front, it comes with the trans mount, motor mount lift (bad news - you have to swap your old one - their kit mounts the engine skid to their own mounts), etc. I think it is the best engineered out there.

I would definitely go with at least adjustable rear upper control arms to set pinion angle. I tried to get by without and ruined a CV joint. I also tried to get by with a stock trac bar w no success. So, just count on buying them up front.

And the Novak TC shifter is a must IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
allright, I've got another question. If I were to do(buy) in stages, what would be the order that you guys would do? Omitting of course the Novak transfer case linkage first. Why Chrysler ever attached the linkage to the tub is beyond me.
 

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Adjustable lower arms

If you've still got the track bar, you'll need a CV bracket and preferably a track bar that can pivot--Currie makes a great one

Areas you probably haven't thought of: Shock mounts and spring perches.
I thought about the rear trackbar/bracket after it was too late to edit. Totally forgot about the rear shock relocation.

arcweldr76 said:
If I were to do(buy) in stages, what would be the order that you guys would do?
I would buy in things that you can run with your current setup. You will get to a point however where several things will be best left for when you do the actual tummy install.

I would start with the control arms. You will 100% need them and they can offer you some benefit in your current setup (strength, flexibility, adjustability, etc). I would also hit the Novak shifter....no sense to wait on that regardless.

After that, I would probably just start stocking and researching parts.
 

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Oh, yeah, that is a another good point (shock position).

I haven't relocated my shocks (yet), but I did have to cut off the back of the lower spring perches to clear the shocks. When you change the pinion angle, the whole rear end rotates toward the shocks.
 
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