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Jeep Wrangler 2.8 CRD Diesel Turbo.
J8 military edition.
Done 145k km


Good day want to see if any one face this issue. My original turbo used for 145k now and i changed it. Even before i got the "Low Turbo Boost" message and now with new turbo installed i still get the same message.
I have replace MAF sensor new one. Car runs smooth very smooth but after good 15 or 20 minutes of drive there is no power in car at all. RPM doest not go over 2 and car very slowly climbs up to speed. Pushing acceleration pedal makes no difference at all.
I stop switch off the car and start it again and it works good for another 10 minutes and same thing starts again.
I been told Turbo Actuator is what i need to replace. Any one with good knowledge can help me what could be real issue here.
Thank you


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hi
you will be probably better treated in the JK section

Did you replace the turbo including actuator or did you reuse the old one?
Normally (if new from Garret) the turbo comes WITH the actuator calibrated for that turbo. Garret nor Hella sell that as a separate part.

You can find chinese clones or some rebulit ones. This Hella thing used in wide variety of cars. But not all of them are interchangeable . The electronics (plastic part) os one thing and the gearing (alluminium part) the other. The alectronics will have P/N like 6NW009228 or similar. But there is also a stamped number on the alu part which stands for gearing. Can be G140, G49 , G whatewer ... but it must always match the original It is the electronics which fails.

If the gearing is ok you can try to repair it. One major fault are broken pin wires. That is quite easy repair. All other repairs require highly skilled and equipped electronic workshop


If you attempt to repair it at home then you have to remove it from turbo. The control arm is secured by small spring clip WATCH FOR IT WHEN REMOVING !!!
They just 3 screws and heatshield.



The plastic case is held to the alu body by 6 spring clips. Unclip it an lift the eletronics. You will see the circuit board and on the sides there are 8 tiny steel wire "arches" which connect the PCB with the pin pads in the plastic case.
Using fine tweezers or small hook carefully try to lift each of these wires. If any of them pops out of the pad that is you problem. Originaly these are spot welded steel wires. But with enough skill you can repair it by solderig a copper wire instead. But you need to scrap the surface first and use some flux.



When allready being inside check also the gearing for free movement. You can lubricate it by a dab of hi temp silicone grease. Assembly is in reverse order.
 
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