[ktx_jeeper]

I run the UCF ultra high clearance. I have a 1 in MML, 1.25 in BL, shifter cables, a super short sye, an adjustable control arms and trac bar. Things to keep a note of. You will have to do a MML. You will have to rework the exhaust, and you will likely have to rework the rear coil spring perches when adjusting for pinion angle. Nothing a grinder cant fix. Thats what i dealt with anyways. I love it though. Really solid product. I dont use the LoPro though.

 

[Water Dog]

I have the ultra high clearance UCF skid on mine (with a 4" suspension lift) and am running the stock rear mount, but I also have a super short sye, and a 1" mml. No issues with that set up.

I did wind up going to a high pinion D30 axle in front to regain some lost caster angle, but I did that mainly because I tow the Jeep behind the RV, and it tracks better with more caster.

 

[Jeep_guy3]

Awesome, thanks for the info. Do you guys think I will be ok without a super short SYE? Mines the standard SYE and really don't want to do it over again.

 

[Water Dog]

Awesome, thanks for the info. Do you guys think I will be ok without a super short SYE? Mines the standard SYE and really don't want to do it over again.

You should be fine.

 

[TJDave]

I can't say it will not be fine on your Jeep, but I consider not going with a Super Short SYE one of my big mistakes. At only 3" of spring lift, and only the standard UCF skid, my driveshaft angle is very steep. I have a mml also. No lopro mount due to my 42rle, but I think I am going to get one and cut the front lip off the skid.

Since your SYE and shaft is already there, all you can do is install the skid and check for driveshaft binding at droop. Or, maybe not go with the ultra high... just to be safe?.

 

[Jeep_guy3]

Since your SYE and shaft is already there, all you can do is install the skid and check for driveshaft binding at droop. Or, maybe not go with the ultra high... just to be safe?.

I've been considering this option too, I wish they made the "extra clearance" skid for the 99-02, it looks like a good happy medium between the UHC and standard.

 

[Skrow]

My Ultra High Clearance skid system get delivered today! I am excited.

If you read on UCF's website, it will explain what you need for your particular setup and transmission. You could also call them if you have a more specific concern, but it looks like the fellas above have helped address some of your issues.

 

[slim56]

I am running the UCF UHC with the LoPro, 1" body-lift, and MML, sye. It is on the LJ which has a longer distance than the standard TJ. If I have your setup I would change out the body-lift to a 1" lift, get the LoPro mount, and do the MML.

 

[Jeep_guy3]

My plan is to get the skid plate and savvy gas tank skid installed, then cut down the body lift to as low as I can without needing to clearance the tub. I think I will go with the UHC skid and get a MML and lopro and hope my driveline angles aren't too bad.

 

[JFjeld]

Highly considering the UHC skid myself. UCF's site indicates you need a 1" BL OR the LoPro. If you have a 2" BL, I'd see no need for the LoPro. And it looks like you have to do mods to it anyway, which doesn't justify the cost to me. If I go with UHC, I plan to use my stock trans mount since I have the 1" BL. But I also have an MML and the Novak cable shifter.

You might also want to consider Rokmen's TT, which is priced about the same. It uses the stock trans mount and just requires a 1" BL:
Rokmen High Clearance Belly Pan

I'm torn between the two skids; though Rokmen is just located 30 minutes from me in Denver, so I can have instant gratification if I buy theirs :bop:.

 

[JFjeld]

And, if you're going to go with an MML, I highly recommend the Brown Dog 1" motor mounts. They're not just a lift re-using your existing mounts; they're new mounts with an incorporated lift. You can upgrade to rubber bushings to minimize engine vibration, which is what I did.

Great company to work with; I was very impressed with their customer service.

 

[Imped]

Your goal needs to be minimal pinion angle. That means keeping the transfer case as low as possible. The benefits of this are substantial:

1) The less you have to rotate your pinion up, the flatter your drive shaft will be and the less likely it is for the CV yoke to bind under droop. Additonally, your drive shaft u-joints will live a longer life when operating at less extreme angles on a daily basis.

2) The lower your transfer case, the less you've got to tilt the front pinion up to avoid driveline vibrations. Less pinion angle = more caster = happier steering, especially if you don't have a HP30. Even if you do, this still matters.

3) The less your rear pinion is tilted up, the further out your factory shock mounts are. This will help to prevent shock body contact with your rear lower coil buckets.

4) The closer to factory orientation your transfer case is, the smoother your shift linkage will work. Regardless of that, I recommend ditching the factory linkage for a cable-based shifter like Savvy's or Novak's.

You're already on 4" springs. Moving the transfer case further up is already pushing it. You need to do your Jeep a favor and keep the case as low as possible--that means a "super short" tail housing, LoPro mount, and MML (yes, do both). FYI, you can run the LoPro mount with a Rokmen skid.

I recommend the UCF skid over Rokmen's, I've got quite a bit of experience with both. The 2" deep skid wouldn't be a bad idea, as it will keep the case 1" lower than if you had the UCF 1" deep skid. If you have any plans on coming down in height then go with the 1" deep skid.

 

[KhakiRubi]

Highly considering the UHC skid myself. UCF's site indicates you need a 1" BL OR the LoPro. If you have a 2" BL, I'd see no need for the LoPro. And it looks like you have to do mods to it anyway, which doesn't justify the cost to me. If I go with UHC, I plan to use my stock trans mount since I have the 1" BL. But I also have an MML and the Novak cable shifter.

You might also want to consider Rokmen's TT, which is priced about the same. It uses the stock trans mount and just requires a 1" BL:
Rokmen High Clearance Belly Pan

I'm torn between the two skids; though Rokmen is just located 30 minutes from me in Denver, so I can have instant gratification if I buy theirs :bop:.

If your going to tuck, then tuck. I would go with the UCF ultra high clearance skid.

 

[Jeep_guy3]

Your goal needs to be minimal pinion angle. That means keeping the transfer case as low as possible. The benefits of this are substantial: 1) The less you have to rotate your pinion up, the flatter your drive shaft will be and the less likely it is for the CV yoke to bind under droop. Additonally, your drive shaft u-joints will live a longer life when operating at less extreme angles on a daily basis. 2) The lower your transfer case, the less you've got to tilt the front pinion up to avoid driveline vibrations. Less pinion angle = more caster = happier steering, especially if you don't have a HP30. Even if you do, this still matters. 3) The less your rear pinion is tilted up, the further out your factory shock mounts are. This will help to prevent shock body contact with your rear lower coil buckets. 4) The closer to factory orientation your transfer case is, the smoother your shift linkage will work. Regardless of that, I recommend ditching the factory linkage for a cable-based shifter like Savvy's or Novak's. You're already on 4" springs. Moving the transfer case further up is already pushing it. You need to do your Jeep a favor and keep the case as low as possible--that means a "super short" tail housing, LoPro mount, and MML (yes, do both). FYI, you can run the LoPro mount with a Rokmen skid. I recommend the UCF skid over Rokmen's, I've got quite a bit of experience with both. The 2" deep skid wouldn't be a bad idea, as it will keep the case 1" lower than if you had the UCF 1" deep skid. If you have any plans on coming down in height then go with the 1" deep skid.

This is exactly what I was thinking, I want the pinion angles to be as minimal as possible, I'm not too worried about reworking the exhaust and all the other things that come with the TT, I think I've steered towards the 2" skid from UCF though. It'll still be a huge upgrade over stock. Unfortunately I wasn't thinking ahead when I did the SYE and went with the regular tail and not the super short.

 

[FireMike]

3) The less your rear pinion is tilted up, the further out your factory shock mounts are. This will help to prevent shock body contact with your rear lower coil buckets.

.

That is a super easy fix.

I also advice installing the extensions regardless of your skid selection. They should be installed on any 4” SL lift.

TJ Rear Shock Extension

 

[FireMike]

I was considering this skid as well. If you do go with the SS SYE make sure your t-case is either a newer style magnetic speedo or you buy the adapter for the older style mechanical speedo, this is the style with the actual speedo gear inside the t-case. The adapter is about $125.

Second, I called the guys at Tom Woods DS to fab me up a DS. I told them I was going to a UCF UHC skid with 4” Currie springs and 1” BL. I also I have the D44 rear end, with an ax-15 and 4.0L. They highly encouraged me to NOT do it!!! The DS angles are too steep and the DS would be very short.

I would advise you to go with the 2” drop plate like I am going to do and like IMPED suggested.