[Jason E]

Just got my Jeep back after the installation of the AEV 2.5" kit, 3/4" Daystar spacers in front and AEV relocation brackets. I have 2 concerns...otherwise I am very happy with everything. I am under the impression this is a solid kit that doesn't really need extra parts to drive properly, hence why I wanted to ask about this stuff here...

1) I have a small amount of bump steer. The shop told me adding a second steering stabilizer would solve the issue. Is it worth doing?

2) The Jeep appears to track straight on a flat, level 2 lane road...but on 4 lane roads with more pitch/crown to them, I find myself using a lot of left steering input to stay straight. I also notice more vagueness off center and a small amount of wandering in the steering now.

The shop said the alignment was perfect after doing it. Their thought is that maybe they need to adjust the relocation brackets? They followed AEV's instructions saying to put them at the top position...but did my front spacers throw off the geometry enough that they need to be put to the middle position?

That is our guess for the moment, and it makes sense. I know this is a popular kit...any help is appreciated!!!

 

[GuzziMoto]

Just got my Jeep back after the installation of the AEV 2.5" kit, 3/4" Daystar spacers in front and AEV relocation brackets. I have 2 concerns...otherwise I am very happy with everything...

1) I have a small amount of bump steer. The shop told me adding a second steering stabilizer would solve the issue. Is it worth doing?

2) The Jeep appears to track straight on a flat, level 2 lane road...but on 4 lane roads with more pitch/crown to them, I find myself using a lot of left steering input to stay straight. I also notice more vagueness off center and a small amount of wandering in the steering now.

The shop said the alignment was perfect after doing it. There thought is that maybe they need to adjust the relocation brackets? They followed AEV's instructions saying to put them at the top position...but did my front spacers throw off the geometry enough that they need to be put to the middle position?

That is our guess for the moment, and it makes sense. I know this is a popular kit...any help is appreciated!!!

I doubt what you have is actually "bump steer". Bump steer occurs when the drag link and front track bar are not parallel. An AEV 2.5" lift isn't likely to cause that. You may have a steering issue, but likely it isn't bump steer.
What does the alignment say? Great they say it is perfect, but what do they think is "perfect". The actual numbers, especially caster and toe, would be useful.
It may be the holes used in the geometry brackets need to be adjusted to get caster where you want it.
Technically, adding the front spacers will slightly affect caster, and should require slightly less additional caster from the brackets meaning they could use a different hole than otherwise required. That would make it more likely to need the top hole, not less likely. But the difference would likely be small. The top hole is for 2.5" of lift. The AEV 2.5" lift usually delivers more lift than that and often needs the middle hole. But every Wrangler is different. What really matters is how much caster do you have. You want around 4.5 to 5 degrees of caster typically. And toe should be slightly toe in.

Not to be stupid, but what are the air pressures in the tires (and what size tires). I always suggest checking those after a visit to a shop.

I would not suggest a steering stabilizer to solve this.

 

[Jason E]

I doubt what you have is actually "bump steer". Bump steer occurs when the drag link and front track bar are not parallel. An AEV 2.5" lift isn't likely to cause that. You may have a steering issue, but likely it isn't bump steer.
What does the alignment say? Great they say it is perfect, but what do they think is "perfect". The actual numbers, especially caster and toe, would be useful.
It may be the holes used in the geometry brackets need to be adjusted to get caster where you want it.
Technically, adding the front spacers will slightly affect caster, and should require slightly less additional caster from the brackets meaning they could use a different hole than otherwise required. That would make it more likely to need the top hole, not less likely. But the difference would likely be small. The top hole is for 2.5" of lift. The AEV 2.5" lift usually delivers more lift than that and often needs the middle hole. But every Wrangler is different. What really matters is how much caster do you have. You want around 4.5 to 5 degrees of caster typically. And toe should be slightly toe in.

Not to be stupid, but what are the air pressures in the tires (and what size tires). I always suggest checking those after a visit to a shop.

I would not suggest a steering stabilizer to solve this.

Guzzi,

Tires are 33" 285/70/17 Duratrac, air pressure at current temps are probably about 33-34 PSI.

The bump steer concern, as I'm calling it, was a sensation once of having the steering wheel wiggle back and forth a tiny bit after hitting a bump on the right side while traveling about 45. It went away almost immediately. I can try to get the alignment specs from the shop and post them here.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Guzzi,

Tires are 33" 285/70/17 Duratrac, air pressure at current temps are probably about 33-34 PSI.

The bump steer concern, as I'm calling it, was a sensation once of having the steering wheel wiggle back and forth a tiny bit after hitting a bump on the right side while traveling about 45. It went away almost immediately. I can try to get the alignment specs from the shop and post them here.

Yeah, that is not bump steer as I know it. Bump steer is where the suspension actually turns in one direction as the suspension compresses and turns in the other direction as it extends.
I would focus on getting the alignment info. Your issue could simply be a lack of caster. And that should be easy to fix.

Those air pressures are a little high for 33's, but not bad.

 

[Jason E]

Thanks for the input. I am bringing it back for him to do an alignment check and fiddle with it next week.

I'm gonna try lowering my air pressures to 30 and see. I just checked them and 2 were at 32, 1 was 33 and 1 was 34. Last time I checked awhile back, they were all set at the factory 37 PSI in the summertime, just after the tires were installed.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Thanks for the input. I am bringing it back for him to do an alignment check and fiddle with it next week.

I'm gonna try lowering my air pressures to 30 and see. I just checked them and 2 were at 32, 1 was 33 and 1 was 34. Last time I checked awhile back, they were all set at the factory 37 PSI in the summertime, just after the tires were installed.

The factory setting of 37 is for factory tires. Larger tires like 33's don't need as much air pressure to carry the same weight. Plus many larger tires are also a higher load rating, like D or E. They also don't need as much air pressure to carry the same weight.
Finally, I think the factory setting of 37 is too high and the factory tires do better at 35 psi. But they want 37, in my opinion they want higher air pressure because of the higher fuel economy it brings. But comfort matters too.
How many miles on the Wrangler?

 

[Jason E]

Only 31k. Never off road (that was what the lift and larger tires was for lol!!!), nothing is the least bit worn. Its as new as a new one.

Lowered the air pressure to 30 all around (they are E Load range Duratracs), went for a ride and no change. It simply requires constant small corrections to stay straight. Also, on a 4 or 6 lane road with pitch to it, you have to constantly have the steering wheel cocked slightly to the left.

 

[GuzziMoto]

Only 31k. Never off road (that was what the lift and larger tires was for lol!!!), nothing is the least bit worn. Its as new as a new one.

Lowered the air pressure to 30 all around (they are E Load range Duratracs), went for a ride and no change. It simply requires constant small corrections to stay straight. Also, on a 4 or 6 lane road with pitch to it, you have to constantly have the steering wheel cocked slightly to the left.

That sounds like a caster issue to me.

 

[Jason E]

Guzzi,

The installer agrees...I sent him a pic of where the wheel is when its going down the road straight, and he said its definitely a caster issue. Bringing it back at lunchtime Monday. Hoping the level spacers aren't messing with the overall geometry of the kit at all...I absolutely love how the Jeep sits, and would hate to pull them out.

 

[jadmt]

so if you added a 3/4" spacer it is very possible you need to move to the center holes on the geo bracket simple measurement will tell you what hole to use. https://www.aev-conversions.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/JK-Front-Control-Arm-Drop-Brackets.pdf

 

[Jason E]

Thank you for your input! It was either you or Pressurized that commented before about the use of 3/4" spacers with the AEV 2.5 kit for you or someone else, so I was hoping to hear from one or both of you.

The shop and I both thought moving down a hole is an option that might solve my issue.

 

[vtsoundman]

so if you added a 3/4" spacer it is very possible you need to move to the center holes on the geo bracket simple measurement will tell you what hole to use. https://www.aev-conversions.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/JK-Front-Control-Arm-Drop-Brackets.pdf

This....a lil extra caster isn't going to hurt the driveshaft.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

[Jason E]

So, to update...

Its about 90% perfect now. Moving the relocation brackets to the middle hole, and re-aligning after 100 miles of break-in has yielded something that doesn't twitch as much, and most steering feel has returned.

The only problem now is the camber is sitting at -.90 for the left front. The right front is at -.30. I ordered a camber shim for the left front that is supposed to add .50 positive camber that would assumably bring me to -.40, which would put me within OEM specs and would hopefully eliminate the remaining left steering input needed to keep it straight on roads with an aggressive pitch. On roads with a less aggressive crown, its straight as an arrow.

Overall, I am very happy with the kit, and wonder if my spring spacers are what contributed to my issues. The ride quality feels identical to stock.

 

[Thedirtman]

Yes the higher you go and the steeper you links, the more correction you will need in the steering to counter the axle shifts caused by the suspension cycling.

 

[Jason E]

After driving it more this week, the only thing that remains a little disconcerting is that the steering feel just off center feels almost like its loose/vague...like the steering is worn. It definitely is not, with only 31k road miles, none of which have been off road.

Hoping the camber issue being rectified will possibly solve some of that. Otherwise, its perfect. I have put 200 miles on it since installation...is there a recommended mileage to have it re-aligned again after break-in?

 

[jadmt]

After driving it more this week, the only thing that remains a little disconcerting is that the steering feel just off center feels almost like its loose/vague...like the steering is worn. It definitely is not, with only 31k road miles, none of which have been off road.

Hoping the camber issue being rectified will possibly solve some of that. Otherwise, its perfect. I have put 200 miles on it since installation...is there a recommended mileage to have it re-aligned again after break-in?

not really anything to align. you can not set camber. I personally would have left camber alone as -.90 is pretty common. I missed what your caster was. can you post a copy of the alignment sheet. is every thing torqqued properly. I know more than once someone has forgotten to torque the front track bar and/or the control arms.

 

[Jason E]

Good to know -.90 is normal. Yes, he explained you cannot set camber, that's why I ordered a $9 camber shim that supposedly adds +.50 to one side. The primary reason I am doing it is because again, on roads with a heavy pitch, you really gotta turn the wheel left a little to keep it straight.

Caster I remember being set for either 2.8 or 3.8 on each side, but I could be wrong. I know it is under the 4 degrees recommended above. I can post the results tonight when I get home...I have the sheet.

 

[jadmt]

set your caster at 5* or so
take the measurement in the link i sent in post 10.

 

[Jason E]

Thanks for the input. They did move the brackets to the middle hole, which helped significantly. I will ask them if they specifically measured when I bring it in for the camber shim.

Beginning to think my spacers added more issues than they were worth, but they were recommended from a few people on here to add to the kit.

 

[Jason E]

Out of curiosity, setting caster to 5 degrees will do what exactly? Does it eliminate or aid with any of the off center vagueness I am still feeling a small amount of?