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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have a JKU Back Country and we are looking to move up to 35 or 37 inch tires. To do that, I want to go to either 4.88 or 5.13 gears. The 4.88's would be for 35's, and the 5.13's would be if we went to 37's. I originally was thinking 35's, but you know how that goes. From what I hear, 4.88's / 35's are at the limit of what you can run in a Dana 30, perhaps slightly over the limit, and 5.13's / 37's are over the limit. Now, I am OK with upgrading the axle, but once I drop that much I do tend to think "in for a penny, in for a pound". Hence the considering 37's.
I am not a mechanic, but I am mechanically inclined and have no aversion to "basic" mechanical work. I think I can do most anything except gearing, I would take it to someone for that (I would love to try it, but would need a second set of axles to try it on).
The first question is what is the best value on upgrading the front axle. I am considering a Currie Rockjock 44, and I have also looked at G2. It looks like either can be had for the low to mid $4,000's. That is acceptable coin to me, but as I said if I am spending that much I do tend to feel that I should get 37's out of it.
Curious, when I build a Rockjock on Northridge's site it shows two different ball joint sets, one set of 4 Dynatrac ball joints and the other 2 sets of Synergy ball joints. I assume it is an either / or deal, but Northridge will let you pick both. I would assume these are the ball joints that attach the knuckles to the C's.

Another aspect, relating to my choice of gear ratio's, is that this is;
A) Not a daily driver but a weekend warrior
B) Based on a Sahara and as such it does not have the 4:1 transfer case
C) A manual transmission
D) We actually like going places like Moab and could really use the ability to crawl slowly with no clutch when in 4 low
E) When we go off road we do like going on fairly hard trails, but nothing hardcore. Nothing where body damage should be expected or winching required (we do have a winch, but hope it to be like an umbrella and never needed). We are really just adventurous tourists off road, and I just want something that the limiting factor is going to be us (as in, we look at the trail and go "F No, that is too crazy")
Given that, I was thinking 4.88 for 35's instead of 4.56, perhaps even that is not enough....
And if 4.88 is right for 35's, I would think 5.13's would be right for 37's. Does that make sense?
If I do go to a Rockjock 44 or some such axle and 37's, what else will need to be upgraded? Keeping in mind we do offroad but nothing seriously hard core. Just how big a can of worms am I opening?
I have no dealt with unit bearings before, but my momma taught me "how hard can it be?".
Anyone here have any knowledge or advice to share on my crazy plan? Help would be helpful.
 

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If given a choice for a toy and 37's. Id do tons and 5.38's.

That said i am still running my d30 with 4.56's. It isnt a daily driver but still sees mostly road miles.. Hence 4.56.

4.88's would be ok for 37's but i bet you'd be wanting more.

That said i am always looking for ford superduty takeoffs. A bit cheaper way to get into 1 tons.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can't see going bigger than 37's, so I was hoping to just get a better Dana 44 like the Rockjock, G2, or other. If I need a Dana 60 for the front I can't see it happening, realistically, any time soon.
That is what I think for the gear ratio's, I started thinking 4.56 and 35's but our experiences with 3.73 and 32's tell me I would rather err on the side of shorter gears, with the current set it is way too tall both on road and off. It is worse off road, but even on road it is a pain.
 

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Not sure if they are still doing it, but Northridge had a deal going on the ProRock 44 where you got free Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

I share the same view as you - I don't want to be equipment-limited or be worried about breaking anything. That's why I'm running a ProRock with 1/2" thick tubes & ProSteers with 33" tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the Prorock 44 better than the Currie Rockjock 44? The Prorock is a little more money, but that does not always equal better.
It does not look like they have free Dynatrac ball joints right now. Are the Dynatrac ball joints better than the Synergy ball joints? And am I correct that when you build the axle on the Northridge site it should be one or the other, not both?

I figure we are not the greatest offroaders, and as such the equipment may need to take a little more abuse than it should. When we are in the middle of nowhere we are sadly often alone. The last thing I need is a failure in the middle of nowhere all alone with no cell signal (and not sure what I would do if we had signal). I would rather over build a little, but I don't have the money to go over board like cost is no object. Spending money wisely I am OK with, but I gotta keep it within "reason".
 

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Is the Prorock 44 better than the Currie Rockjock 44? The Prorock is a little more money, but that does not always equal better.
In my opinion, yes the PR44U is the better option. If you are going with a 3" lift or greater, the ProRock 44HD Unlimited housing puts the caster back without needing to spend $1200+ on control arms. It is also available in the HD variant that has 1/2" wall thickness. It also has the most ground clearance of all of the D44 options, more so than your OEM D30.


It does not look like they have free Dynatrac ball joints right now. Are the Dynatrac ball joints better than the Synergy ball joints?
Yes, the ProSteer joints are better, but the Rare Parts joints are the best. That said, it's not like the Synergy joints will die in a few months. All are far better than the OEM joints. I bought the Synergy, if I had it to do again and had more money while doing it... I would skip past the ProSteer and go straight to the Rare Parts joints. In for a penny... in for a pound.


And am I correct that when you build the axle on the Northridge site it should be one or the other, not both
Correct. Whatever brand you pick is the brand you use. And yes, it is 4 ball joints on the inner C casting, 2 uppers and 2 lowers... one upper/lower set on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In my opinion, yes the PR44U is the better option. If you are going with a 3" lift or greater, the ProRock 44HD Unlimited housing puts the caster back without needing to spend $1200+ on control arms. It is also available in the HD variant that has 1/2" wall thickness. It also has the most ground clearance of all of the D44 options, more so than your OEM D30.




Yes, the ProSteer joints are better, but the Rare Parts joints are the best. That said, it's not like the Synergy joints will die in a few months. All are far better than the OEM joints. I bought the Synergy, if I had it to do again and had more money while doing it... I would skip past the ProSteer and go straight to the Rare Parts joints. In for a penny... in for a pound.




Correct. Whatever brand you pick is the brand you use. And yes, it is 4 ball joints on the inner C casting, 2 uppers and 2 lowers... one upper/lower set on each side.
Thanks for the info. We have a 2.5" lift currently, and even if I go with 37's I would like to keep my lift in the same range so I would go with high clearance fenders.
I already have fixed longer lower arms anyway.
Do they have a Prorock 44 without the castor correction?
I am leaning towards TruTrac instead of a locker for the front and rear. I definetely want the Trutrac for the rear but I have considered the locker in the front. I do like the idea of not having to push a button, that it is always there. But I do wonder if it will make the steering heavier or harder to control. A locker we would likely leave off 99% of the time and that might work better for the front.
 

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I am looking into the same but I am still researching the G2 from Q-Tech with the Auburn Ected. Both an LSD and a selectable locker. So many choices and decisions. Everyone wheels different so one size fits all doesn't work here.
 

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I got a Teraflex 44 with arb airlocker and Tera balljoints from Jason at Krawl Offroad. Price was surprisingly good. I went with 4:88 and 37's on my 2015, automatic 4 door. Live in Socal and see some freeway driving, so the 4:88 work real nice. If I lived in the mountains i'd do 5:13.
 

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Thanks for the info. We have a 2.5" lift currently, and even if I go with 37's I would like to keep my lift in the same range so I would go with high clearance fenders.
I already have fixed longer lower arms anyway.
Do they have a Prorock 44 without the castor correction?
I am leaning towards TruTrac instead of a locker for the front and rear. I definetely want the Trutrac for the rear but I have considered the locker in the front. I do like the idea of not having to push a button, that it is always there. But I do wonder if it will make the steering heavier or harder to control. A locker we would likely leave off 99% of the time and that might work better for the front.
Yes, you can get the PR44, PR44 HD (. 5" tube), PR44 Unlimited (caster correction added) or any combination of the above. Call Eric at Northridge, tell him Larry with the Willys Club told you call for club prices.

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Do they have a Prorock 44 without the castor correction?
Yes, that's the one I got. I run it with a little over 2" of front lift and Teraflex Sport Flexarms, which are a little longer than stock.

Call the guys at Northridge and see if they can hook you up with the Dynatrac ball joints. They have run that special offer several times now.
 
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