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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2015 JKUR with a Teraflex 1.5" leveling left (coils), custom made bump stops, and appropriately extended Rancho 9000XL shocks. It included new front sway bar links and brake hose brackets. At that time, I do not believe it included bump stops, as I crafted custom ones for both the front (hockey pucks) and rear (delrin). I went to slightly upsized Duratracs (285/75-16s)--all this was to fit in a garage with lower clearance.

I no longer have the garage issue, and I am trying to upsize my tires to 295/75-16s in KO2s--which I think in reality are about 2" greater in diameter than the previous Duratracs (even though the specs say they should be closer).

I'm planing a fall trip to Moab, and short of going with 35's, I'd like a little extra ground clearance. So I'm thinking about trying to find springs that would net me 1/2 to 1 inch more than the TeraFlex springs did.

My first question is can this reasonably be done, or do I also need further extended sway bar links, different bump stops, different shocks, and potentially other parts (so, basically, a new lift kit)? If it can be done with coils, does anyone have a specific coil spring suggestion?

My second question is could I add a 1/2" to 1" spacer kit on this as a quick lift alternative?

My third question is trying to determine the amount of lift I have now--there have been threads that state how to measure both the stock front and rear height and then how much a lift nets--does anybody recall that easily (I will search if not)? Given armor, bumpers, recovery gear, tools, etc. I will net less than the empty factory rig would.

Thanks.

Edit: I found some stock JKUR measurements that do wheel centerline from ground to lower edge of flare lip. While I get that there is some variability in this measurement, my rig as it sits is about 1/4" above stock in the front, and at stock in the rear. So either my coils sagged, and/or this just reflects all of the weigh I have added.

So new question--I would like to net about 2" of lift. 2" spaces would do that, as they don't compress much. But if I wanted new coils I'm uncertain what "claimed" lift I should target to get the 2" I am looking for. Any thoughts?
 

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I have a 2015 JKUR with a Teraflex 1.5" leveling left (coils), custom made bump stops, and appropriately extended Rancho 9000XL shocks. It included new front sway bar links and brake hose brackets. At that time, I do not believe it included bump stops, as I crafted custom ones for both the front (hockey pucks) and rear (delrin). I went to slightly upsized Duratracs (285/75-16s)--all this was to fit in a garage with lower clearance.

I no longer have the garage issue, and I am trying to upsize my tires to 295/75-16s in KO2s--which I think in reality are about 2" greater in diameter than the previous Duratracs (even though the specs say they should be closer).

I'm planing a fall trip to Moab, and short of going with 35's, I'd like a little extra ground clearance. So I'm thinking about trying to find springs that would net me 1/2 to 1 inch more than the TeraFlex springs did.

My first question is can this reasonably be done, or do I also need further extended sway bar links, different bump stops, different shocks, and potentially other parts (so, basically, a new lift kit)? If it can be done with coils, does anyone have a specific coil spring suggestion?

My second question is could I add a 1/2" to 1" spacer kit on this as a quick lift alternative?

My third question is trying to determine the amount of lift I have now--there have been threads that state how to measure both the stock front and rear height and then how much a lift nets--does anybody recall that easily (I will search if not)? Given armor, bumpers, recovery gear, tools, etc. I will net less than the empty factory rig would.

Thanks.

Edit: I found some stock JKUR measurements that do wheel centerline from ground to lower edge of flare lip. While I get that there is some variability in this measurement, my rig as it sits is about 1/4" above stock in the front, and at stock in the rear. So either my coils sagged, and/or this just reflects all of the weigh I have added.

So new question--I would like to net about 2" of lift. 2" spaces would do that, as they don't compress much. But if I wanted new coils I'm uncertain what "claimed" lift I should target to get the 2" I am looking for. Any thoughts?
It sounds like you now want a 2.5" lift, which typically gives you around 3" of lift. At this point, you typically need additional parts to cover things like caster correction (longer / adjustable arms or geometry brackets), rear track bar roll center (rear track bar bracket), increased suspension travel (shocks), and a variety of details like longer sway bar links (maybe, maybe not) and longer brake lines or brackets to allow existing brake lines to work. Depending on the length of the front shocks extended, you may need to address front drive shaft to exhaust crossover clearance.
The easy way to do this is to buy a good 2.5" lift with all the parts / add-ons you want and remove the existing parts before installing the new parts. The existing parts could then be sold to someone else to help covers some of the outlay for the new parts. Or you can buy the parts individually as needed, as I call it a franken-lift. In the end, a franken-lift is usually the more expensive way to go, but at first it will often seem like it is the cheaper way to go. Take it from me, my 2.5" franken-lift cost me a lot more than just about any pre-packaged 2.5" lift. But it has been fun, I enjoy the learning experience.

To see where you are at, here is a good way to get a baseline measurement
 

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Additionally, if you are building a heavy rig you may want to look at a lift that uses progressive or multi-rate springs, like AEV or Metal Cloak. A 2.5" AEV lift is around a grand, with Metal Cloak having similar options at the same or slightly higher price depending on options (MC has some lifts that include more parts).
The AEV 2.5" lift with the AEV geometry brackets for castor correction is a very good riding lift.
Spacers can be used to recover some lost height due to added weight, but to me it sounds like you expect more and if that is the case you may not be happy with the results.
 

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As far as ground clearance, your lowest point is the differentials. The only way to raise them are taller tires. Body and suspension lifts do not lift the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All--thanks for the input. Guzzimoto--THANK YOU for posting those diagrams--I had found them a bit earlier, but they will be really useful for anyone else who comes across this thread and needs the info. By the way, I did the measurements off of those diagrams, averaged the sides, and came up with the following. My rig is a little less than 1 1/4" higher than stock in the front (so it is level--in fact, it is slightly nose up). It is about 1/4" lower than stock in the back. I agree with all of your comments on the Frankenlift concept--my only question is trying to figure out what a 2.5" lift will really net me, since the 1.5" leveling lift (which, after going through the TeraFlex site, should be 1" in the rear)?

I did contact TeraFlex to see what they suggest and I'm waiting to hear back. I think my TeraFlex springs are progressive, but I may need something more geared toward heavy rigs unless I just do some pucks. But you are correct that I can only go up so much more before I start needing to deal with steering, axle centering, etc.

Mommy--thanks, but I know. A lift also won't help my LCA attachment points, which are beat up in the rear pretty good. But with a good spotter a lift does allow me to place taller obstacles (*sometimes) underneath the Jeep in a path that avoids the low bits. I may need to just get over the fact that 35's will dog my acceleration some and just do it (coupled with more of a lift).
 

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All--thanks for the input. Guzzimoto--THANK YOU for posting those diagrams--I had found them a bit earlier, but they will be really useful for anyone else who comes across this thread and needs the info. By the way, I did the measurements off of those diagrams, averaged the sides, and came up with the following. My rig is a little less than 1 1/4" higher than stock in the front (so it is level--in fact, it is slightly nose up). It is about 1/4" lower than stock in the back. I agree with all of your comments on the Frankenlift concept--my only question is trying to figure out what a 2.5" lift will really net me, since the 1.5" leveling lift (which, after going through the TeraFlex site, should be 1" in the rear)?

I did contact TeraFlex to see what they suggest and I'm waiting to hear back. I think my TeraFlex springs are progressive, but I may need something more geared toward heavy rigs unless I just do some pucks. But you are correct that I can only go up so much more before I start needing to deal with steering, axle centering, etc.

Mommy--thanks, but I know. A lift also won't help my LCA attachment points, which are beat up in the rear pretty good. But with a good spotter a lift does allow me to place taller obstacles (*sometimes) underneath the Jeep in a path that avoids the low bits. I may need to just get over the fact that 35's will dog my acceleration some and just do it (coupled with more of a lift).
As far as I know TF springs are all straight rate. You can see it in how the coils are wound. Progressive / multi-rate springs will have some coils at one end much closer together than at the other end.
 
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