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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stretching your YJ with Wagoneer leafs! If something is unclear just ask. I will add things as needed because I'm sure I missed something.

Some quick pointers before we get started.

I realized that 2" front stretch is the MAX possible. Don't use offset perches as I ran into some steering interference with mine at 3". The rear can only do 2" with out major modification due to the fuel tank and rear wheel wells. We are looking at a 4" stretch total (Front/Rear). I'm very happy with mine so far. I already have a SOA done on mine and I will not be going through shock placement/brake line etc, but you should have a good idea about the waggy spring swap.

First things first. Spring location and type. The front springs off of a wagoneer are the only ones to be used. They are 1" longer than stock YJ springs, but there is a 2" offset with the centering pin. The rears can not be used on our YJ's without serious modification. I'm almost certain you can use any of them from 76-91 wagoneers as long as they are fronts. Look closely to make sure that they are 44" long with the center pin being at 21"/23"(offset). On top of the 2" stretch from these leafs, they also provide 2" of lift if you get stock wagoneer leafs. Most people recommend that you use the seven leaf ones. You can find these at most salvage yards. If you want to buy them new you can, but hang on to your wallet! :whistling:


Jack up your vehicle and place jack stands underneath your frame. I placed mine here:





Remove your tires and let your suspension drop all the way. You need to measure your pinion angle. I placed a degree gauge at the bottom of the differential. You can do this like I am with your suspension at full droop or you can measure it before you jack up your jeep. (I prefer to do it when its at full drop as it makes it easier to check when mocking up)

mine shows 20 degress.



Now you can support that rear axle on jack stands as you will be unbolting it. Take off your Drive shaft and the U-bolts.



After you have done all the U-bolts, disconnect your Leaf hanger bolts. NOTE: I did not remove my shocks or brake lines to do this.




Prep your new springs and make sure that the centering pin is located for your application (SOA or SUA) If it isn't then flip it around! :D



Place your new springs into the hangers. make sure that you have it the right direction. Remember there offset! You might have noticed that the fixed hanger on the frame has the correct size bolt, but the shackle hanger is a smaller bolt. Drill your shackles out to 9/16 and go get some 9/16 bolts to replace them. (You will need four total if you are doing the front and rear stretch) Bolt them up and let the springs hang.

Remember that pinion angle measurement we took? I hope you wrote that down. Go ahead and set your axle on the center pins. Measure your pinion angle again. Obviously, you need to do this the same way you did prior. Mine was off by 4 degrees after the waggy springs. I bought 4 degree shims and placed them in the leafs. If you are doing a SOA at the same time set your pinion angle and weld your perches on. When doing this on the front of your YJ you want your pinion angle identical to stock. That way you won't mess with your caster! I don't need any angry people coming after me when there steering is all fudged up. ;)



If you have your shims in and your all set go ahead and do the finally assembly of torquing your u-bolts. Make sure that you don't max your brake lines/breather hose and shocks after this. Replace your tires and set your jeep back on the ground. Torque all your hangers to spec and then bounce your vehicle to let it settle. Measure for new drive lines! I will order mine on Monday. :action-smiley:

The procedure is the same for the front and the rear with the exception of your caster in the front and you might want to trim some in the rear.

Here is a picture of my rear afterwards. I plan on installing TJ flares and doing some trimming to get the wheel well centered again.



This is the front with out the rear stretched. I will post some final pictures when I get my shafts and drive it out of the garage. I don't want to push it as I have done enough physical labor for the day. :dance:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
nice... you made it look like it should only take about 15 minutes. i'll do mine tonight!

but they say, takes a lot of work to make it look easy.
I spent some time on it. I still have a lot to touch up as well.

can't wait for rear pictures! So you used waggy front springs on the rear of ur yj?

Yep
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not that I'm aware of, just try to get the 7 pack leafs and you should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ill get final shot when I get my drive shafts in. I have a small garage! (too small for pictures)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can I see how you did the driver side e brake cable? I have an idea about mine but I'm wondering if it will handle the flex

I have an 8.8 and my E Brake isn't hooked up. I plan on doing a manual line lock for my parking brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Mine came from an individual that parts out wagoneers. Check out car-part.com and You should be able to pull some up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had this bookmarked, and was thinking about my situation, I have a 3 1/2" Dick Cepek lift, spring under, and wanted to keep the spring under, I found this on e-bay:

3" Front Lift Leaf Springs 74-90 Jeep Wagoneer/ J10 J20 | eBay

and think its about what I need (Along with the Ford 8.8) add longer shackles (by about 1-1 1/2" ) and ill be back to my original lift.

Does this sound about right?

Id do the rear first, then move to the front as funds returned.
Thats a 3 inch lift for a wagoneer.. which is far heavier than a yj.. that'll make ya a lot taller than your old height
Everyone says that stock waggy springs are 2" taller than stock YJ springs, So if you get those springs I would expect around 5" of lift with stock shackles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I know that these are long overdue, but I was able to get out and play some today! These are AFTER fixing the wheel well openings with TJ flares and everything is done.



 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Looks good...real good...I like how the opened wheel wells look with the tj flare..very subtle....do you notice the 4 inch stretch in ride quality on the street?

Actually I do notice better road manners. It handles good and the ride isn't so stiff, but that was probably my old springs.

Your correct on the flares hiding the stretch. You have to know jeeps and take a good look at it to realize its actually stretched. Check out the pic with the old YJ flares earlier in the thread to compare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Springs are in the stock hangers. Springs flex is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
i meant to ask beast, did you have to lengthen your front DS to make this work? i'm SOA right now and want to do the WB stretch, but i suppose i can live without the stretch if necessary.. might be looking at XJ front DS to make this work..

I already have a fixed yoke rear, and im sure 2 inch stretch in the back wont hurt much as far as pulling the splined end out a bit more.. thinking of going to the junkyard tomorrow

I did, I ordered the tatton's front shaft for $150 bucks and I have to tell ya. That was money well spent. Big spline, shaft is stout and it's balanced. :punk:
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Well, if I remember correctly. I think my stock shaft was maxed out at 43" and shy. I'm at 44" know and have plenty of sleeve to go either way.

I'll dig threw my noted to see if I can find it as I may be wrong on my measurements.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Stock steering except a drop pitman for the lift. No issues. Plan on doing cross over some day to get rid of some bump steer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
what if I was to use these spring from rancho model RS44044? Here is a link

Rancho Part RS44044 - Leaf Spring


I just want to make sure I get the right thing. This is my first jeep build .
Your jeep will be really tall because those are lift springs for a FSJ. Not to mention it won't ride very well (will be stiff). Depending on what your wanting. If you keep it spring under with stock wagoneer springs and add a 1" body lift and some aftermarket shackles you could easily obtain 4" of lift.
 
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