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i went out to get some springs today and wasn't really paying attention to the year of wagoneer to get from.. i pulled mine from a 71, which ive found from some searching they are 44 inches long compared to a 45 inch long of a YJ.. I'm not necessarily looking to do a wheelbase stretch and people might inquire as to why im bothering with the swap anyway.. Well where i live the pull it yourself style junkyard they're $13 a spring.. and they dont have any wranglers at that junk yard because the parts are worth more.. so at the other junkyard they're about $45 per spring.. so im just looking to swap in less expensive springs..

Short story long, i did a bit of research to see what years would work and as you noted 76-91 fit, but i believe 74-75 fit as well, the rear springs were different but the fronts matched up to the 76+.. only thing im not sure of is if those came in 7 leaf packs.. they did have a 74 at the junkyard that had a 2 leaf pack.. Just thought i'd chime in since i'm doing this mod myself :)
 

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Thats a 3 inch lift for a wagoneer.. which is far heavier than a yj.. that'll make ya a lot taller than your old height
 

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I like it.. excited to finally rebuild my suspension especially after adding my bulletproof rear bumper tire carrier and winch.. definitely sagged a bit
 

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i meant to ask beast, did you have to lengthen your front DS to make this work? i'm SOA right now and want to do the WB stretch, but i suppose i can live without the stretch if necessary.. might be looking at XJ front DS to make this work..

I already have a fixed yoke rear, and im sure 2 inch stretch in the back wont hurt much as far as pulling the splined end out a bit more.. thinking of going to the junkyard tomorrow
 

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Ill think about doing that.. what was the difference in measurement of the drive shaft from before w/SOA with the stretch added?
 

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So i've had the waggy springs for a month or so now, finally got them on this weekend..
I got the set I used up front off a 1989 Grand Wagoneer, and the ones I used in the rear off the front of a 1980 Cherokee. I mounted them in the same orientation as they came off the vehicle, ie no stretch. Much better ride quality, haven't gotten out to flex yet but i figured i'd post up some pics and info :)


 

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Wow, so i just looked at your jeep profile and saw that you paid the exact same amount for your jeep that i did.. $3850..
 

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might be worth noting, if you swap in a ford hp44 you can do the front stretch without having to lengthen the front ds. The horizontal yoke to centerline measurement is a few inches longer on it than the d44
 

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if you're staying with the stock front axle, the largest numerically you can go is 4.88:1. that being said, i wouldn't trust the brakes on a d30 to stop 37s reliably.
id recommend a fixed output yoke with a slip yoke driveshaft (cv or not) for waggy soa.
i run a flat pitman arm with no drop, but then im running a completely different front axle with different steering.

you don't need to stretch to run them, but
you might want to do a lot of research before deciding on 37s
 

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ford high pinion dana 44, with a 9" rear, or the 8.8 but you'll need different axle shafts and it will be noticeably narrower than the front axle unless you narrow it
 

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ideally for the d44:
76-77 bronco, f100, f150
78-79 f150 high boy
78-79 f250

drum brake 44's that can be converted:

72-75 bronco, f100, f150

I believe the 9 can be found behind all those trucks with maybe the exception of the f250's

The 44s are 30 spline inner, 19 spline outer

The 9 inch should be the big bearing 31 spline so long as its not out of a car.

most ideal junkyard 9" will have a large N cast into the center chunk, for nodular iron. Do a little more research into the 9 inch as i dont remember everything off the top of my head
 

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i recommend taking a leaf out of the packs you use out back, they're somewhat stiff, ill probably be doing that with mine when i get new shocks. my plan is to take out the 3rd one down, 2nd leaf is good to keep for adding strength to the main leaf, since it runs almost all the way under the hanger/shackle mounts
 

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you can redrill the centering hole in the spring perch to move the axle forward/backward.. and the bottom of the shock is a simple loop end that can rotate 360° if necessary, the top is a bayonet style that can come in at a slight angle and not affect anything.

Assuming the bayonet end, with no modification exits the upper shock mount at a 90° angle, moving the axle forward several inches (depending on lift height) would only increase the angle at which the bayonet end enters the shock mount by several degrees; but not enough to where the stock mount would no longer work.
 

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Even then, with the amount of movement you can get out of an axle without entirely changing the type of suspension, you're going to have to address other more pertinent problems than a shock mounts, like steering interference, or overall interference with other vehicle components.
 
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