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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tomorrow, I am going to look at a 1995 Wrangler. It is a 4sp, manual transmission on 32" tires. It has a hard top only and has 142,000 miles. I'm not new to cars, but I know nothing specific about Jeeps or what to look for.

I have pics, but I don't think I can post them in the thread striaght from my computer.
 

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look for frame rust especially around the spring mounts.. rot on the floorboards especially drivers side.. rust on rockers and around where the jeep logo is on the side.. with 32s make sure you can turn lock to lock and not rub.. look for rub marks where the tires would be hitting.. rust around window under seal.. make sure 4z4 works the vacuum system is notorious for failure... that thing looks really clean though wish mine was that nice.. looks like you may have some rust on the bottom of the window under the rubber.. mechanicals are the same as any other vehicle..
 

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Make a list of the issues and/or things you know you would want to fix. Research the cost of those and factor into your offer. YJ's are like Lego sets.

Non starters for me would be:
- milk shake oil or coolant.
- Major mods or driveline swaps.
- Hacked up original electrical.
- poor shifting/clutch action
- frame rust (check at body and spring mounts)
- excessive body rust.

Otherwise it's all based in the purchase price and your time/budget to restore/repair/upgrade.

Absolute best find is somebody's daily driver with cosmetic damage at areas you'd like to modify anyway.

What's the asking price?

I picked up an XJ for $600.00. It had some body/bumper damage that made it look a bit beat up, tires were shot and it had a history of overheating and a whine in the D35. I had already planned on JCR bumpers, lift and tires, and D44 swap, did a coolant system flush, radiator and water pump - my kids have been driving it for 8 years now.

I also picked up a YJ for $3,000. It was a bit rough in the inside, dirty and grimy as hell on the outside, but ran strong. Literally washed it, spent about $800 on interior stuff at quadretec (seats, carpet, door panels). Did a little zipper lube, clean up on the soft top. Had some minor repairs, but it's approaching 1 year and it's running strong. Actually get more compliments on it than my 2014 JKUR.

Point being - there are some sweet deals out there if you know what your plans are and are planning to do some work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. I haven't seen it in person yet. Will have a 3.5 hour drive in the morning to go see it. He is asking $4800, but unless it is in great shape, I plan to make an offer under that, depending on what I see.

I know it needs a windshield and the drivers window handle is not there. Not sure if its just a handle missing or if its an issue inside the door.

Owner says it is in good mechanical shape. I'm a bit leary about the 4 cylinder, but what do I know?
 

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The 4bangers not super peppy, but gets the job done. It looks nice if everything works. Something that stands out. It should be a 5 speed. If it's a 4 speed ask why. Did the 5 speed get swapped out?
 

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In my area (So Cal) at $4,800 there should be a lot more good than bad. 4 bangers aren't bad, but definitely shouldn't command the same price as the I6. If you have any plans to build beyond a run about, you'll be better off holding out for the I6.

In my opinion at $4,800 I'd be looking for an unmolested stocker with reasonable wear and tear only.

Based on the photos and asking price, I would not drive 3.5 hrs for this one. - your local market may be different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 4bangers not super peppy, but gets the job done. It looks nice if everything works. Something that stands out. It should be a 5 speed. If it's a 4 speed ask why. Did the 5 speed get swapped out?
In my original post..... that should have said 4cyl, not 4speed. It is a 5 speed transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In my opinion at $4,800 I'd be looking for an unmolested stocker with reasonable wear and tear only.

Based on the photos and asking price, I would not drive 3.5 hrs for this one. - your local market may be different.
I agree, but then again I haven't seen it in person yet. Depending on what I see, I was thinking $3,500-$4,000.
 

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To back the others up here, RUST, look everywhere. get under the sucker and crawl around. It does appear there's some rust under the rubber on the windshield. Look for any place that's been patched or has noticeable bubbling/bulging. Don't be afraid to pull up the carpet and take a peek. (I found a syringe under the carpet of one when i was looking).

I notice aftermarket seat covers there, check to see if there's tears/stains, it's not a huge deal since you can go to a junkyard and pull seats from other cars and will bolt right in for $40 bucks, but it may help bring down your initial cost some.

Like others have said, mechanics are just like any other small SUV/truck from the period. Just make sure you give it a good test drive. Take it on the hiway/freeway, dirt/gravel, Test 4x4, check fluids. Ask the PO if they have maintenance records.

Personally, I looked for as close to stock as I could get, major mods are nice if they're done right, but if they are done wrong you could end up with a rolling tub.

Looks nice though, assuming that rust looking spot isn't rust. I wouldn't pay asking price though for a 4 banger with that many miles.
 

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I wouldn't tow anything with that rear hitch. It might be ok for a bicycle rack. $4800 seems high for a high mileage 4cyl.
 
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