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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So it is raining steady.

Great time to locate a water leak.

Wiped all water off the floor on drivers side ( wasn't much ), after it was all dry I put a piece of poster board above the floor from the seat up to under the gas pedal and from one side to the other of the drivers side.

I check it every 15 minutes or so hoping to see water drips so at least I have a starting point on the water source.

Checked two times and saw no water drips on the paper.

Pulled the paper and underneath a small puddle of water.

No water trails down the firewall ..... so it did not sneak under the paper that way.

Looked to the left, and I found the source of water. It seems to be coming in along the seam of the cowl to the body, entering the body ad dripping down.

I did a " field repair " to test out what I think is happening with metal duct tape.

I will be posting pics shortly ........ ( more to come )
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This photo shows where the water is entering into the cabin ..........

( inside the black circle you can see a 'bubble' with a hole - water coming in there )

This is drivers side, not sure if you can tell actual location ..... but to give an idea it is forward of the door switch.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I applied duct tape and it seems to have slowed down the leak but it is still there.

Now this is where I put the duct tape on the outside ............

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Going back to the first pic ..... water is NOT coming in through that 'bubble'.

It is coming in through the seam above the 'bubble' and dripping down over it.


[/url]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Any ideas on how to properly attack this issue ?????

My ' field rigging ' sense tells me to slather a bead of 'seam sealer' across the seam below the windshield, but common sense tells me that is not the way to go.



Thanks !!!!!!





;)
 

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I believe your leak is at the cowl seal not at seam where you put the duct tape.
Could be either. Look for a void in the seam sealer between the horizontal and vertical cown panels. While you are at it, check the other seams around that area. If there is a void, mask off the area, leaving about 3/16" to 1/4" and squish in a dollop of seam sealer or urethane caulk. Promptly pull the masking tape off and smooth out the edges with your finger. A rubber glove is handy to keep your fingers clean. Touch up with the color of your Jeep.

If there is no void or noticable crack, then the next area to check is the windshield frame gasket. This is a bigger job because you have to disconnect your top at the windshield frame and remove the sport bar struts where they connect to the top of the windshield frame. Fold the w/s frame foreward and seal the gasket, top & bottom. Better yet is replace the gasket.

A third possibility is a rotted windshield frame. If you have rust bubbling out from under the seal around the windshield glass, this is a distinct possibility. Windshield technicians are nortorious for not properly sealing the cuts in the paint when they cut the old cracked windshield out for replacement. The cuts start to rust and once the rust is through, you get leaks. My Jeep is an original Colorado Jeep and the only rust it had was where the windshield frame was rusted due to the above stated reason.

If you have to replace the windshield frame to cowl gasket, search the forum for DREDnots invention to easily pull the windshield frame back into position.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Still looking into this......

Jeep is not moving .... sitting still.

Cowl Seal ??? Is this the seal at the bottom of the windshield frame ???

I did identify a leak at the top of the windshield ..... seal is bad and PO tried to caulk it up.

I do not see any signs of rust, paint bubbling and such around the windshield frame.

I put duct tape at top of windshield from hard top down to glass and the leak at top of windshield stopped.

New windshield seals and moulding are on the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you have to replace the windshield frame to cowl gasket, search the forum for DREDnots invention to easily pull the windshield frame back into position.

Good Luck, L.M.
I think this is something that needs to be done .... if not for the leak now, at least peace of mind.

What should I search for to find what you are speaking about ????

THANKS


EDIT: Having tough time searching for that so I sent DREDnot a PM !!!



.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Either one will work. I used the 1st one when I replaced mine. Not a hard job. Worst part is getting the torx bolts out of sport bar and hinge. Make sure you put some pb blaster on them prior to removal. I had one strip out and had to drill and extract bolt. Put anti seize on bolts before you put back together. Took me and a buddy a little over an hour.
 

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I have that same leak to the left near the e brake. Comes through that seam where you put the duct tape. I used a bit of clear silicone. Took me a while to find that leak!
 

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So sorry. It wasn't DREDnot, but rather it was Raul that had the simple invention.
Post by Raul, on 10-6-2015 in response to "more door woes".

Requires a 2"X6" board, 2 eyebolts and 2 ratcheting cargo straps.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Yeah, that wasn't me with the ratchet strap fixture.

I would clean that cowl seam where your duct tape was and run a small bead of clear RTV.
And then do the Cowl-to-windshield seal. They usually fit like something aint right but that's just the BS way the repros are molded.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, that wasn't me with the ratchet strap fixture.

I would clean that cowl seam where your duct tape was and run a small bead of clear RTV.
And then do the Cowl-to-windshield seal. They usually fit like something aint right but that's just the BS way the repros are molded.

Thanks for that image ..... it shows me how easy it 'should' be.

I have a hard top and it looks like a few bolts at top of windshield to hard top holding the top in place along with bolts into body on both sides in the back.

Remove those to 'release' the hard top, then remove the lower torx bolt from the plates at bottom of windshield ...... then windshield should fold forward.

Am I missing anything at this point ???????


Next clean out the mess and prepare for the new gasket.


When installing new gasket, should I use any adhesives/sealants ..... or just the gasket?????


NOTE: Since I am in this deep I will be ordering all new rubber for the windshield to include .......

Windshield to Cowl Gasket
Windshield Seal Kit ( includes windshield seal / reveal moulding )
Hard Top To Windshield Gasket/Seal

Will I need anything else ?????


THANKS AGAIN !!!!!




:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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I just did this to mine. Removed all the hardtop mounting hardware, reinstalled the two rear bolts, slid a scrap of inch and a half pvc pipe between the rollbar and top. Plenty of room to fold the w/s.
 

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Am I missing anything at this point ???????

You got a good plan, but you failed to mention the front "sport" bars that go from the roll bar to the windshield. They may or may not give you fits getting their bolts out. Two at the windshield plate and one at the back side of the roll bar. NOT the tamperproof torx at the top of the pipe! That one controls the windshield angle for YOUR individual jeep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I assume these are what you are talking about ..........



[/url]


QUESTION: Clearly I can understand why the ones going into the windshield need to come out ...... Why the need to remove the one from the back of the roll bar???


THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just 'tested' the ones in the windshield.

Removed all of them ...... well not at once....... removed and reinstalled them one at a time and no problems.

Let me know about those ones on the back of the roll bar .... why the need to remove them and such.


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