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When it rains hard enough, water was come pouring out onto my feet. Coming from above my pedals. Anyone had this happen to them before? How to fix?
 

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Two things to check. There is a cowl vent drain on the passenger side firewall may be clogged. The preformed Flat at the bottom hose need to be opened and cleaned.

If not that then you may need a windshield cowl seal goes on the tub before you raise the windshield into place.

Both are relatively inexpensive but the cowl seal will take about 4 hours. The cowl vent hose will take 10 minutes.
 

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Same thing was happening to me. I checked the drain hose and it was clogged. I cut the bottom 1-2 inches off and I haven't had a problem since then
 

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What makes the cowl seal take 4h? I've never done it but was under the impression you just have to fold the windshield down and stick a new one on? What am I missing?
 

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Hardtop
 

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What makes the cowl seal take 4h? I've never done it but was under the impression you just have to fold the windshield down and stick a new one on? What am I missing?
The old one has flattened out pretty good over the years.
A new one is at least a 1/4 inch thick.
I didn't want to bust my glass so I rigged a board with two rings across the windshield and ratchet straps around the roll bar.
Used a tamperproof T-50 on the roll bar extenders.

It was nervous white knuckle ratchet clicking to get that 1/4 inch back.
If you don't get the windshield back to the original position it can impact top fitment, door alignment, etc...

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4 hrs to remove the hardtop, drop the windshield, raise the windshield and then muscle it back in place.

I actually let it set a day or two before I also used ratchet straps and boards to get it back to the original angle so the hardtop and hard full doors were all lined up.

That's where I get 4 hours.

If it was the same seal less than an hour.

Trust me it takes time.
 

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The old one has flattened out pretty good over the years.
A new one is at least a 1/4 inch thick.
I didn't want to bust my glass so I rigged a board with two rings across the windshield and ratchet straps around the roll bar.
Used a tamperproof T-50 on the roll bar extenders.

It was nervous white knuckle ratchet clicking to get that 1/4 inch back.
If you don't get the windshield back to the original position it can impact top fitment, door alignment, etc...

View attachment 1658961

View attachment 1658969

View attachment 1658977
Question...Did you gradually tighten the ratchet straps a little at a time or tighten all at once (both sides at the same time of course)?
 

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Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit. :blackeye
 

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Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit. :blackeye
LOL.....well crap, I just returned from the lumber store! JK Thanks for the info. Ive got to change that seal soon!
 

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Well this is embarrassing.
Yeah, that works but five years ago I was young and dumb.
There is a much easier way.

1. Unzip and remove the roll bar padding (if you have any).
2. From the rear you will see a T-50 thru the roll bar into the end of the spreader bar. (it's 3.5 inches long)

With those two removed the windshield will drop with the spreaders attached.
I learned that you really don't want to mess with the Tamper-proof Torx bolt on top of the spreader. It is in a slotted hole and must go back in the original position or it will negatively affect door closure.

On re-install you may want to loosen the bolts where the spreader connects to the windshield to get the T-50 in the back lined up straight and started.
I always do a little on each side until tightened down.

My apologies to anyone who bought lumber, hooks and straps but, after all this is the internet damnit. :blackeye
LOL!! The fact that you remember posting this 5 years ago is the amazing part!

Good stuff.
 

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I have the same problem: water pours in like a faucet from behind the dashboard when it rains. I have a new cowl seal, the cowl vent is clean and debris-free as is the cowl vent drain tube. I’m at a loss how/where the water comes in.
 

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There is a specific measurement from the top of the windshield frame to the rear of the tub.
I cannot remember the measurement but I found it on line.

Get this measurement right and your hardtop and doors will fit the opening as it should.

For some reason 68 and an 1/8 inch come to mind

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

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I started to watch the video that rushwal posted. What I do that he doesn't do is tape shut the possible areas of leak. I'd tape the cowl vent shut and the seam between the horizontal and vertical cowl panels. I'd also tape the windshield molding so that no water could get past the tape. He had already sealed the soft top to windshield frame, but if that wasn't done, I'd tape that shut also.
You need to tape everything shut before spraying any water because the tape won't stick to wet. I like the wide green Frog Tape that the Big Box hardware/lumber yards sell. Regular wide masking tape works as well, but it's more difficult to remove once it's been wet.
Then, as he does, start with the washer nozzles and then progress to the cowl vent. The heater box (plenum) could have a crack that allows water to seep through the crack rather than a plugged drain tube being at fault. Then move onward and upward, as he suggests
If you have an assistant inside the cab with a good flashlight, the assistant can alert you as soon as they see any water intrusion. Plus, if you have an assistant, you can tape the door seams shut to eliminate any chance of a false positive where the water might accidentally spray in.

If the windshield frame is rusted enough for the rust to show outside of the gasket it's possible the windshield frame could be rotted enough to have rot holes all the way through the metal and allow water into the cab that way.

I run the water under low pressure controlled at the faucet rather than a strong spray at the nozzle. Everyone has their own method that works best for them. Let us know what ends up working for you.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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