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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here I was hoping to get my toy on the road tomorrow, but oops! It took a leak on the driveway as I was reloading it with antifreeze after thermostat replacement. The damn Water Pump Inlet Tube got a leak right where the tube connects with the hex. The damn part is nowhere to be found closer than 5-7 business days shipped. On top of that it looks like since the pipe's curved I'll have to take the valve cover off along with the thermostat housing in order to screw it in its place. I started wondering if anyone has ever replaced the above mentioned part with a straight fitting instead and adding extension to the hose. I figure there was a reason for that pipe to be there however, how critical is that reason is and is there a way to work around it? I'd hate to have to take all those parts off (plus I'll have to replace the valve cover gasket - more money :D) if there is a simpler way to resolve it.

Has anyone ever done something like that?
 

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I think your talking about the heater return pipe that dumps into the water pump. If i were to do that job I would remove the water pump with pipe attached. Most water pumps come with a new pipe, any good auto parts store will have one. Just put on a new pump, thay are not that hard to do or expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That 's the pipe. I any case, I just checked out the water pump - sucks to be me, it doesn't come with this pipe. These are sold separately and on top of not being quickly available require some disassembling done before reinstalling the pipe. That's why the question about converting it into straight fitting with a hose extension was up - a lot less to deal with.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It was relatively easy to get mine out. I took the idler off, got the belt out of the way, broke the tube part off, used a long 19mm socket with a total of about 2' extensions and a 2' bar to get it moving, then switched the bar to impact to finish it off. Now the plan is to get a fitting with the same thread and replace the original heater hose to the new one about a 1' longer plus a couple of hose routing pieces to mount it on. Other than that, I'm thinking of putting some protective sleeve right by the AC mounting bracket otherwise it might start rubbing it over the edge of it and then you know what will happen :)
 

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when I replaced my pump the pipe was looking a bit rusted so I took a fitting out of a small block chev pump and used it. Threaded right in. Replaced the heater hose with a longer one.
 

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water pump inlet tube problem

hey guys i have a 93 cherokee and i am replacing my water pump and am replacing the same water pump inlet tube as shown in that pic but as i screw mine down it gets very tight and i have use 3 different ones and 2 pumps..so my question is, is that normal it just doesnt seem right please let me know its my every day driver i need to get it up and running
 

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I have the same piece hanging in my garage. My threads stripped and I couldnt find another pipe. I got some brass fittings from the hardware store and went that route.
 

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i ordered one today from advance auto will be here monday.9 bucks
 

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doesn't just dump into water pump

The tube is the return to the water pump. When the thermostat is closed there is a great deal of suction on the inlet side of the water pump. The water pump suck water from the bottom of the radiator and pushes it through the engine. That is the reason for the spring inside the lower radiator hose, to keep it from collapsing due to the suction.

If you put a sharp bend in the return line of the heater hose, it will have a tendency to collapse due to the suction from the water pump.

You can use a piece of metal flex tubing. install and bend to fit.
 
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