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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had my Jeep undercoated with a hard wax that is clear (same stuff used by CAT on all their equipment). Stuff is great and will definitely help keep the road and beach salt from getting into places that are not easy to get cleaned out. It was expensive however and I wouldn't take it back to the place that did it for me regardless as they were not professional to say the least.

Found this product and wonder if anyone has tried it? Wish they had it in clear! May use this when its time to re-coat in a couple years.

I use WoolWax too but like the hard wax as it dries and isn't quite as messy when you get it on you when working on the Jeep.
 

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I had my Jeep undercoated with a hard wax that is clear (same stuff used by CAT on all their equipment). Stuff is great and will definitely help keep the road and beach salt from getting into places that are not easy to get cleaned out. It was expensive however and I wouldn't take it back to the place that did it for me regardless as they were not professional to say the least.

Found this product and wonder if anyone has tried it? Wish they had it in clear! May use this when its time to re-coat in a couple years.

I use WoolWax too but like the hard wax as it dries and isn't quite as messy when you get it on you when working on the Jeep.
The wax undercoat must get sprayed on when hot I'm guessing? Do you have any pictures of it? How-about a rough cost? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The wax undercoat must get sprayed on when hot I'm guessing? Do you have any pictures of it? How-about a rough cost? Thanks!
I'll take a close up or two of some places its obvious that it was sprayed as it really is clear (slight copper color where it dried as a drip and is thick). You can feel it as its like rubbing your finger over a candle.

It was $600 but I won't know if it was worth that until I get to year 3. Caterpillar suggests having it redone every 3 years but a Jeep on the beach will take much less of a beating than a dozer so I am hoping for 5.

If nothing, its added protection on top of what I'll do with WoolWax. Really considering the stuff I showed in the picture though and may get a can just to test a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Forgot to mention... not sure if it goes on hot or not. Had to leave the Jeep for 3 days as it dried as it goes on extremely thin and gets deep into spaces. I had to remove the EVAP canister the other day and noticed the wax had made it all the way to the bolts between the metal plates and was impressed by that.
 

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Goes on hot?? sure just put the cans in the oven,,,,NOT. I had a 93 ford explorer that had a factory wax coating. Got soft in the summer and collected sand and dirt. I'll stick with Rusto-paint. But I don't live in the salt belt.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Goes on hot?? sure just put the cans in the oven,,,,NOT. I had a 93 ford explorer that had a factory wax coating. Got soft in the summer and collected sand and dirt. I'll stick with Rusto-paint. But I don't live in the salt belt.
The stuff that was sprayed on for $600 was what I wasn't sure about in terms of going on hot or not. The canned stuff, I was asking if anyone ever used it as I was thinking of using it in the future when the stuff I had done needs redone? I'll be interested to see if mine gets soft this summer. I took a heat gun to it to see just how it would react to heat and it seemed to only get soft at around 200 degrees so I'm hoping it doesn't. I went to the beach with it and sand didn't stick (did stick to the woolwax I used in a few test places but even that washed right off).

Really just interested in knowing if anyone has ever seen, used or even hear of the "undercoating in a can" in the initial image in the thread?
 

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Check out Fluid Film (if you haven't already). Has it's own sticky in this forum. I've used it on boat trailers, etc., around anything that hits the water, salt and fresh, and it has done a fantastic job. It's lanolin based, so no toxins or solvents. It's definitely tried and tested, so I'd invest in it before guinea pigging the product you found.

Fluid film is a copperish/clear, so my guess is that is what your installer applied. You can apply the same thing on your own for much less.

You can see several youtube videos of how to do a fluid film undercoat spraying.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/the-end-all-fluid-film-thread-1267809.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Check out Fluid Film (if you haven't already). Has it's own sticky in this forum. I've used it on boat trailers, etc., around anything that hits the water, salt and fresh, and it has done a fantastic job. It's lanolin based, so no toxins or solvents. It's definitely tried and tested, so I'd invest in it before guinea pigging the product you found.

Fluid film is a copperish/clear, so my guess is that is what your installer applied. You can apply the same thing on your own for much less.

You can see several youtube videos of how to do an undercoat spraying.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/the-end-all-fluid-film-thread-1267809.html
Thanks! I did read that thread. Seems Fluid Film and Woolwax are very similar minus the smell that I've read the Fluid Film has.

The one I'm thinking of testing dries which means it won't make me a slimy mess every time I do anything under the Jeep. It may be a great option for the wheel well areas I'm thinking.

I think I'll probably have to just nickle up and get a can to test out. My test wouldn't be just a steel plate though. I'd test using two bits of angle iron bolted together to see how it does with seems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had my Jeep undercoated with a hard wax that is clear (same stuff used by CAT on all their equipment). Stuff is great and will definitely help keep the road and beach salt from getting into places that are not easy to get cleaned out. It was expensive however and I wouldn't take it back to the place that did it for me regardless as they were not professional to say the least.

Found this product and wonder if anyone has tried it? Wish they had it in clear! May use this when its time to re-coat in a couple years.

I use WoolWax too but like the hard wax as it dries and isn't quite as messy when you get it on you when working on the Jeep.
I contacted the company that makes the "Undercoating in a Can" and they are sending a few cans to try out for free (provided I take some pics and send them feedback). Will post here how it does. I plan to do a number of tests such as extreme cold, heat, sand, etc. Probably will just start with the rear wheel wells to see how it holds up. Going to take a fresh rusted surface, clean surface, etc. to see how it does. Going to do some steel plate tests as well. It won't replace my use of Woolwax but may be a good addition for certain areas.
 

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Applied wool wax in late fall and so far so good. My 2016 had never been used in the winter therefore the underside was pristine. Checked the underside the other day and everything looked really good. No surface rust to be seen after past 3 months. Live in an area that uses copious amounts of salt brine and sand. So far the wool wax is holding up well. Will post some pictures when the season is over so everyone can see how well it worked or not. BTW I did the entire undercoating myself for about 150 bucks and still have plenty of product left for re-coating. Only thing required to use their sprayer is a decent compressor with plenty of CFM and sufficient air pressure. Did the entire job in less then 2 hours.
 

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Applied wool wax in late fall and so far so good. My 2016 had never been used in the winter therefore the underside was pristine. Checked the underside the other day and everything looked really good. No surface rust to be seen after past 3 months. Live in an area that uses copious amounts of salt brine and sand. So far the wool wax is holding up well. Will post some pictures when the season is over so everyone can see how well it worked or not. BTW I did the entire undercoating myself for about 150 bucks and still have plenty of product left for re-coating. Only thing required to use their sprayer is a decent compressor with plenty of CFM and sufficient air pressure. Did the entire job in less then 2 hours.
I'm still using up my supply of Fluid Film, but plan to switch to Wool Wax once the FF is depleted. I have enough to do my son's LJ, my JKU or my truck next fall. Then I'm getting a gallon of WW. I have the kellsport sprayer and it is fantastic with all the wands and different tips.
 

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I'm still using up my supply of Fluid Film, but plan to switch to Wool Wax once the FF is depleted. I have enough to do my son's LJ, my JKU or my truck next fall. Then I'm getting a gallon of WW. I have the kellsport sprayer and it is fantastic with all the wands and different tips.
IMO if anyone does a DIY it's CRITICAL to use an extension wands so you can spray deep inside the frame. I'm sure something could be fabricated but the flexable wand I bought from the wool wax distributor worked perfect.

As you know it's an easy job just make sure the underside is reasonably clean. Encapsulating dirt probably isn't going to protect your metal parts very well. Anyone buying a new jeep should do this BEFORE they do any winter driving wherever road salt is being used.

I took some picture BEFORE applying Wool Wax and should be able to make a good comparison after this winter. As you can see my frame, etc was almost perfect for a used jeep in New England. I'm hoping the Wool Wax does the job and keeps it from any appreciable rust.
 

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For sure the flexible hose/wand is key to getting inside the entire length of the frame. There are a few other places where having that hose makes spraying easier too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For sure the flexible hose/wand is key to getting inside the entire length of the frame. There are a few other places where having that hose makes spraying easier too.
My only concern with Woolwax in the frame is that it does not dry and sand would just build up in there? Sand washes off with a pressure washer very easy externally but how would you get the inside flushed well? Anyone use Woolwax internally and do beach driving and looked inside with a camera to see if it washes out?
 

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My only concern with Woolwax in the frame is that it does not dry and sand would just build up in there? Sand washes off with a pressure washer very easy externally but how would you get the inside flushed well? Anyone use Woolwax internally and do beach driving and looked inside with a camera to see if it washes out?
You have a point. If you hit sand dunes a lot and even maybe deep mud, you have have issues. I still think WW/FF still perform in this scenario since they form a barrier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You have a point. If you hit sand dunes a lot and even maybe deep mud, you have have issues. I still think WW/FF still perform in this scenario since they form a barrier.
I agree. It probably would perform and help keep rust at bay even with a gooped up layer of Woolwax and sand. I'm just looking for alternatives before I commit and the brand that I have coming in the mail to try out for free may be an option. It is supposed to be a wax-like product and they say it dries to where you can poke your fingernail in it and it will self heal (slowly). My tests will be to see how well I can wash stuff off of it, how it does in summer heat (does it get soft and sticky), etc. I can simulate the heat with a heat gun. I'm also going to test extreme cold to see if it gets really hard and allows seperation (i.e. water to be able to seep under it.)

Will see!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got the Undercoating in a Can. It was really nice of them to send it to try. Tested a small sample board and let it dry. It holds sand like glue and won’t wash out. So a no go for my use case. Would be great for northern salt roads I would think but that’s about it. The company is supposedly thinking up other options for me but I’m thinking black Woolwax will just be my answer.
 

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Got the Undercoating in a Can. It was really nice of them to send it to try. Tested a small sample board and let it dry. It holds sand like glue and won’t wash out. So a no go for my use case. Would be great for northern salt roads I would think but that’s about it. The company is supposedly thinking up other options for me but I’m thinking black Woolwax will just be my answer.
Well Black woolwax, as awesome as it looks when applied, will never dry and will always make sand cling to it I would think.

I sprayed my diff a few months back and it still looks like fresh wet brand new paint that most definately self heals and protects.... It coats like a super paint... great stuff but I'm not sure how it will mix with heavy sand use..

For inside the frames it would be ideal if that's the goal (just reread the thread)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well Black woolwax, as awesome as it looks when applied, will never dry and will always make sand cling to it I would think.

I sprayed my diff a few months back and it still looks like fresh wet brand new paint that most definately self heals and protects.... It coats like a super paint... great stuff but I'm not sure how it will mix with heavy sand use..

For inside the frames it would be ideal if that's the goal (just reread the thread)
I've tried the clear Woolwax on a few areas and went to the beach. Sand does stick but it also washes right out (I was amazed) and the Woolwax remains.

I'm really looking for the best Internal Frame "self healing" options as I'd be afraid of Woolwax in the frame and then getting sand in there where I couldn't pressure wash it out.
 
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