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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, this is a new one. Had my 98 Sahara Sport for 8-9 years. Mostly do all the work on it myself except electrical.

I had an issue where a battery was dead, so I bought a new battery. Duralast Gold. 4 days later, the battery is dead again. OK, so thought I needed to do the alternator/starter. Changed both of those, put a new serpentine belt, just for the hell of it. Replaced the new/dead battery with a warranty from AutoZone. Guy at auto zone said the dead brand new duralast wouldnt even take a charge.

So, new alternator, new starter, new serpentine belt, new plugs, did it all. Seemed to be a brand new Jeep again. Wrong. Two days later, Voltage meter drops to 0 again, check gauges lights coming on and off intermittently. Truck still runs. Driving down the road, I apply the brakes, the ABS light comes on in the middle of the road, and the truck chokes and dies. Its now completely dead. Can't start it, won't turn it over, and the new battery is testing at 9.80 volts. Definitely not right for a new duralast gold. should still be in the 13 range after a week.

Anyone experience this before. So strange. Never had anything like this.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Oh, and there was this annoying buzzing from inside the cabin when the battery is connected, terrible buzz, when i press the brake pedal, it stops. When I try to turn the ignition it stops. I had to unhook the battery so it would stop and not kill my battery
 

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Sounds like a charging issue
The voltage regulator that controls alternator output is built into the PCM (engine control computer)



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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sounds like a charging issue
The voltage regulator that controls alternator output is built into the PCM (engine control computer)



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Ahhh. thanks. I'll have to find someone local on task rabbit or something. no way i'm letting a shop tell me i need 2K worth of electrical work. So, you think that the battery not getting charged due to the bad voltage regulator causes the panel to show check gauges and the ABS light to fault? I guess anything can happen when the power isnt enough for things to function. thanks for your input.
 

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Could be a bad ABS pump causing it to run consistently draining the battery, could also explain the buzz you have been hearing
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Could be a bad ABS pump causing it to run consistently draining the battery, could also explain the buzz you have been hearing
Interesting. I hadnt even thought about that. I guess whaat Im wondering is why is the battery being crushed so hard. brand new alternator and starter. the old alternator and starter testing PASS at Autozone too. Still im not upset that I replaced those, as the truck has 150K miles so thats no biggie.

What makes no sense is that the alternator doesnt appear to be charging the battery for some reason. Weird.

Thanks for your reply.
 

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My reading comprehension must be off today, didn't see that part about the battery not charging....
 

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Digger84 is more knowledgeable at this than I am, but since you replaced the alternator, battery and assume you would have checked the condition of the cables & grounds. Maybe the ECR (Voltage Regulator) that's within the PCM as Digger pointed out. I do believe there is an external voltage regulator fix that doesn't involve replacing the PCM.....
Can you pinpoint where the buzzing is coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Digger84 is more knowledgeable at this than I am, but since you replaced the alternator, battery and assume you would have checked the condition of the cables & grounds. Maybe the ECR (Voltage Regulator) that's within the PCM as Digger pointed out. I do believe there is an external voltage regulator fix that doesn't involve replacing the PCM.....
Can you pinpoint where the buzzing is coming from?
Somewhere under the dash and panel. When I put my head down under where the brake pedal and gas pedal is, its somehwere down there. Annoying weird buzzing sound, that when you press the brake pedal, the sound stops to silence. then you let your foot off the brake and the buzzing starts again until I disconnect the battery from the cables. Before the buzzing happened, the check gauge light would come off and on, and the battery voltage gauge would go haywire jumping around intermittently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sure sounds like either wiring or the voltage regulator in the pcm


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Yes. I think so too. I've booked an inspection with a company to come out and look at it in the morning. If the voltage regulator is involved with telling the alternator to send charge to the battery, thats potentially the issue. because two defective batterys in two weeks isnt likely. Thanks for the feedback digger!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, I had the guys from YourMechanic come by today. Apparently my friend who put the alternator in didnt properly attach the ground cables and they came loose. Needless to say, he won't be doing any more work on my Jeep with me. Can't believe I missed that, but the cable was hidden behind a hose. Glad it was something stupid. The tech put the computer on the PCM/ECM and everything is good to go on computer for the vehicle. Runs like a charm now. Back up to 14volts on the votage meter when its running. Thanks for the help all who responded. :)
 
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