Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

100641 - 100660 of 100731 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
On Friday I replaced my rear brake pads, rotors, and parking brake shoes. I did NOT pull the axle apart, but FCA can suck a fat one for how they tucked shit behind the axle. Why not make the parking brake work with the caliper like other companies do? Turns out one of the caliper glide pins on the passenger side was not into gliding any more. It took a lot of soaking and gentle twisting (at first) to break it free. Cleaned up all the pins and lubed them. For parts I really wanted to go Mopar but the budget did not have $400 plus for parts. Rockauto it was! I installed the Wagner Severe Duty rear pads, Wagner rotors, and Wagner shoes. Ended up reusing the springs and hardware on the parking brake as they were still good...put the AC Delco kit aside for next time. Did a semi-decent break-in procedure on the pads and the JK stops much better now. Front rotors look great and pads are over 50% remaining so they stay on.

Today I washed her down twice, hand washed, detail sprayed, then waxed her. Treated all the weather stripping with the purple gumbi stuff like I do twice every year, including the freedom panels. Treated the fenders. Dumped two cans of Seafoam in the full tank to prep for an oil change in a couple weeks.

20210402_140149.jpg 20210402_140200.jpg 20210402_140844.jpg 20210402_164611.jpg 20210402_185522.jpg 20210403_165954.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikes911

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
We had fun testing a new-to-us ZJ and also testing out the new rear suspension on my JK.

Overall the rear suspension did great with relocating the control arm brackets and I gained a lot of ground clearance. It feels smoother with the more level angle of the control arms. I will probably need to add another 1/2"-1" of rear bump stop and/or trim the rear fender more. The 1350 driveshaft just clears the gas tank skid after I did more trimming. I currently have 15" shocks in the rear while my 13" shocks get rebuilt. It will be a while before the rear is ready for the 15" travel shocks. I need to upgrade to a 1410 extreme angle driveshaft as the 1350 can't even handle the 13" travel shocks. I will need to add a center limit strap and run longer brake lines.I also need to find a better way to secure the parking brake cables after I relocated them to allow for more droop.

The 5.2L ZJ is fun and did better than expected with 3.73s and 35s. The Ford 8.8 rear is great but will need better gears and a locker. The front LP Dana 30 isn't worth investing any money into it. We are looking at other options.

4494934
4494935
4494936
4494937
4494938
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
851 Posts
Installed a new stereo after my old pioneer was getting glitchy. Made it 6 years.

Alpine ilxF409. Looks great and is a nice upgrade.







‘15 Firecracker Red JKU Sahara, 285/75/17 Ridge Grapplers on Qtec black 41 wheels, 2” Rancho lift
I’ve been thinking about replacing my Alpine iLX-107 HU with one of the Alpine 9” Halo’s. Your installation looks good. How is it offroad? Any issues with vibration due to the larger display mount?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
It’s been great and is more secure than I would have expected it to be. It was a little tedious mounting it so close to the dash but I figured it out based on some other posts. I like everything about it but the resolution could be a little better and I would prefer a shiny screen vs. the matte version. The 309 has a few more features but I didn’t need them so saved couple hundred buying the 409. The 9” halo unit is the right size for the JK dash. I used a single din scosche mount.


‘15 Firecracker Red JKU Sahara, 285/75/17 Ridge Grapplers on Qtec black 41 wheels, 2” Rancho lift
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,230 Posts
Put on my roll bar pads, and installed the Bimini top yesterday. The Bimini top was less of a struggle to put on compared to the roll bar pads. The roll bar pads was a two person install, because you have to remove the sound bar. The Bimini top is a one person install, very easy, took 30 minutes. I would have chosen another soft top option, but this was the cheapest budget friendly option, for that open air ride. Happy Easter.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
That didn’t clear the light. Drove it around for a while but that didn’t do it. It’s nice to have the steering wheel centered though.

Is there a trick to clear the light? I have no codes but tried to clear all codes anyway. No luck.
Turns out it was the steering wheel after all. Went out this morning and verified the wheel was centered with OBD JScan - it was.

Took off to get gas and the light cleared less than a block from the house.

Thanks all and Happy Easter!!
 

·
Registered
2008 Jeep Wrangler JK
Joined
·
178 Posts
Wired in lightbar switch, USB 3.0 (twin) terminal, added 2 marine grade 12 volt ports, and seat heaters (the wires you see on the floor next to the seatbelt connectors). Tested the 'entertainment center' and downloaded the GPS data. DSC_1913.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Also did a crap-ton of wiring.

View attachment 4494910

I brought in a hot accessory line (separately fused & tapped from the seat heating circuit) from the fuse box and created a fused accessory breakout under the driver's side kick. There's a clear cover that goes over it, and it seems to be a pretty good solution for an interior accessory-power tap to feed the dashcam.
That looks really slick and a great idea, to have a fused accessory break out . The heater seats are like 20a each, so those 6 fuses probably can only carry up to 20a in total before blowing the main fuse of one :unsure: - unless, you tapped both seat heater hot lines (ran separate lines to your fuse breakout main or one big enough for 40a) and were not using them for, well heated seats - then you have 40a to work with across those 6 ports. :cool:

Apologies for the late response, rewired the chicken coop today as part of normal winter cleanup (200w solar power, with a key remote chicken door and timed lights - replacing the current fuse breakout from the charge controller) and your post popped into my head. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
That looks really slick and a great idea, to have a fused accessory break out . The heater seats are like 20a each, so those 6 fuses probably can only carry up to 20a in total before blowing the main fuse of one :unsure:
The taps split the line at the fusebox feed - the original 20a seat heater circuit is preserved (on the lower fuse line) and isolated; the tap adds an additional draw line from the fusebox feed, and gives it a dedicated fuse on the top.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,419 Posts
Turns out it was the steering wheel after all. Went out this morning and verified the wheel was centered with OBD JScan - it was.

Took off to get gas and the light cleared less than a block from the house.

Thanks all and Happy Easter!!
I need to re-center mine as well after a hard day on the trail. I’ve upgraded to RPM steering bits so the adjustment requires some wrenches that I need to get.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
The taps split the line at the fusebox feed - the original 20a seat heater circuit is preserved (on the lower fuse line) and isolated; the tap adds an additional draw line from the fusebox feed, and gives it a dedicated fuse on the top.
Got it, cool, then you have up to like 20a to the fuse breakout you added for easy power access (if you are using that tap as recommended through the 14-16 gauge wire they have on that tap).

Might not be necessary to go hotter for your needs though - just trying to be helpful in avoiding a coyote works type incident :cry: when loading that (up to) 100a breakout in the kick.

Really apreciate the posting of this with links btw. I did purchase one of those fuse blocks based on your writeup. Thanks! (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
We had fun testing a new-to-us ZJ and also testing out the new rear suspension on my JK.

Overall the rear suspension did great with relocating the control arm brackets and I gained a lot of ground clearance. It feels smoother with the more level angle of the control arms. I will probably need to add another 1/2"-1" of rear bump stop and/or trim the rear fender more. The 1350 driveshaft just clears the gas tank skid after I did more trimming. I currently have 15" shocks in the rear while my 13" shocks get rebuilt. It will be a while before the rear is ready for the 15" travel shocks. I need to upgrade to a 1410 extreme angle driveshaft as the 1350 can't even handle the 13" travel shocks. I will need to add a center limit strap and run longer brake lines.I also need to find a better way to secure the parking brake cables after I relocated them to allow for more droop.

The 5.2L ZJ is fun and did better than expected with 3.73s and 35s. The Ford 8.8 rear is great but will need better gears and a locker. The front LP Dana 30 isn't worth investing any money into it. We are looking at other options.

View attachment 4494934 View attachment 4494935 View attachment 4494936 View attachment 4494937 View attachment 4494938

I can't wait to get to Colorado this summer. Looks like you had an awesome time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
701 Posts
Pulled up to the office today and realized my rear driver side brake was smoking. Felt like a Nascar driver. ha ha

Looks like my evening will include pulling the caliper off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Replaced the blown steering damper.

4495390
 
  • Like
Reactions: Izzy Does It
100641 - 100660 of 100731 Posts
Top