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Finally found the gremlin causing a popping noise from the windshield whenever I hit a bump. I thought for months it was from the A-pillar grab handles that I installed and tried everything to tighten them better and resolve it. Turns out it was actually the windshield bracket loose outside from the door-less mirror brackets I installed at around the same time as the handles.

Time for a beer.
 

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Question from a novice....why would you not put the track bar in the top hole and make the bar more parallel to the ground?
I have no idea if it'll be better to be honest. I went with the lower hole cause thats supposed to be for 2-3" lift, the other i think is 4-6" lifts.
It'll clear my exhaust even in the last hole but i was affraid if i'm fully loaded the pipe might get crushed by the TB ?
This is the clerance now at the lower hole. I have 2" bumpstops so that's 4" until the bumpstop won't give anymore, and the bar from the exhaust is like 3.5"

20211029_072638 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20211029_072624 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
 

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I have no idea if it'll be better to be honest. I went with the lower hole cause thats supposed to be for 2-3" lift, the other i think is 4-6" lifts.
It'll clear my exhaust even in the last hole but i was affraid if i'm fully loaded the pipe might get crushed by the TB ?
This is the clerance now at the lower hole. I have 2" bumpstops so that's 4" until the bumpstop won't give anymore, and the bar from the exhaust is like 3.5"

20211029_072638 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

20211029_072624 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
Oh ya. I can see it getting close to exhaust. Was wondering if the higher the bar, the more you lift the roll center? Always hear of that. Just want to one day set my jeep up better. 😊
 

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Question from a novice....why would you not put the track bar in the top hole and make the bar more parallel to the ground?
I go against the grain and raise my track bar as high as possible. It improves handling by raising the roll center. Also the closer you can get the trackbar to level the less the axle will shift side to side throughout it's cycle. 5" above stock is usually about as high as you can find on most brackets. I'm running 6" above stock but ran into clearance issues with upper crossmember on my 2 door and trimmed my upper crossmember. I have heard 4 door's don't have this problem but can't confirm it. Exhaust clearance also plays a big deciding factor. Metalcloak appears to provide the best overall exhaust clearance but I would guess there may be others with similar clearance. My TB just barely contacts my exhaust at the extremes of articulation.

If you really wanted to be picky; you could set the height of the track bar related to the actual ratio of up and down travel so that the TB had the same arc above and below centerline during the whole suspension travel. For example; if the Jeep has a 50/50 up/down travel the optimal position of the track bar would be level. If the ratio was 40/60 up to down you would theoretically want optimal track bar position to be 1" higher on the axle side than the frame side so that the arc would remain the same above and below centerline.

Most times this doesn't happen for packaging reasons or sometimes it is even setup to push or pull and axle to a particular side to gain clearance during articulation. Although it isn't popular, I was always interested in the Watts link that Full Traction designed. I don't think it would work for my articulation but it would keep the axle center better than a track bar.

This is a discontinued MC 6" bracket, they now make 5"
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle brake Rim


Teraflex weld on 6" bracket. My TB sits 1.75" lower on axle side compared to frame side bracket. That's the best I can do for packaging purposes.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


I was always intrigued by this product. Full-Traction watts link branded as CRC-Link
Product Automotive lighting Font Circuit component Auto part
 
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I go against the grain and raise my track bar as high as possible. It improves handling by raising the roll center. Also the closer you can get the trackbar to level the less the axle will shift side to side throughout it's cycle. 5" above stock is usually about as high as you can find on most brackets. I'm running 6" above stock but ran into clearance issues with upper crossmember on my 2 door and trimmed my upper crossmember. I have heard 4 door's don't have this problem but can't confirm it. Exhaust clearance also plays a big deciding factor. Metalcloak appears to provide the best overall exhaust clearance but I would guess there may be others with similar clearance. My TB just barely contacts my exhaust at the extremes of articulation.

If you really wanted to be picky; you could set the height of the track bar related to the actual ratio of up and down travel so that the TB had the same arc above and below centerline during the whole suspension travel. For example; if the Jeep has a 50/50 up/down travel the optimal position of the track bar would be level. If the ratio was 40/60 up to down you would theoretically want optimal track bar position to be 1" higher on the axle side than the frame side so that the arc would remain the same above and below centerline.

Most times this doesn't happen for packaging reasons or sometimes it is even setup to push or pull and axle to a particular side to gain clearance during articulation. Although it isn't popular, I was always interested in the Watts link that Full Traction designed. I don't think it would work for my articulation but it would keep the axle center better than a track bar.

This is a discontinued MC 6" bracket, they now make 5"
View attachment 4526386

Teraflex weld on 6" bracket. My TB sits 1.75" lower on axle side compared to frame side bracket. That's the best I can do for packaging purposes.
View attachment 4526387

I was always intrigued by this product. Full-Traction watts link branded as CRC-Link View attachment 4526388
Thanks for your input Rob. More newbie people like me are digesting all this info to one day set up a great rig. That is a MC rear track bar? Looks nice for clearance for the exhaust. One day i hope to order the MC 2.5 lift and remove what is left of my RC lift.... Thanks.
 

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Thanks for your input Rob. More newbie people like me are digesting all this info to one day set up a great rig. That is a MC rear track bar? Looks nice for clearance for the exhaust. One day i hope to order the MC 2.5 lift and remove what is left of my RC lift.... Thanks.
Yes, I run MC track bars front and rear. The more I learn, the more I realize how little I know. There are plenty of people that know way more than I do. I just try to share my limited knowledge and explain why I make the decisions that I do. I always try to educate people so they can make an informed decision over a popular decision.
 

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Turned my Jeep into Rudolph the red nosed Jeep. I did this last year and a woman at the gas station asked if I was doing it again this year. Surprised she remembers. Got a lighted wreath too! Ho ho ho! View attachment 4526552
Dude, October ended only a few minutes ago...
 

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Replaced my Boss head unit under warranty - they sent me an SSL unit. However, the new models only have the LED panel buttons in a very bright blue, and the screen is no longer dimmable. I was happy with the old unit until the screen started fogging up, but now with that, the long wait time, and stripping useful features, I can no longer recommend Boss/SSL. If anyone has any suggestions for a simple Android Auto head unit with a button panel that can be dimmed or change colors, I'd love to hear them!
 

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Went back to the OEM grill much to the wife and stepdaughter's dismay. Sun damage on the aftermarket and not being able to get the winch cover on helped in the convincing. It's a much happier Jeep now!


Sent from somewhere in Missouri
way better!
 
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