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Had some Gremlins I was chasing. Speedometer would drop out with no loss of power, random dummy lights, radio reset. Popped the hood and the negative terminal was loose enough to just pull off with my fingers. tried tightening the nut on top and way to much corrosion. Cut the wires and added a splice kit until my replacement heavy duty terminals come in. Luckily no corrosion or burn made it past the soldered joint. It fixed every issue I was having LOL! These OEM terminals are crap!!


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These help.
 

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These help.
Thanks! I thought of that, unfortunately the terminal was so eaten up I couldn't loosen or tighten the nut. I tried PB Blaster, WD, Wire brush, etc. my only real option was replacement entirely. I ordered some heavy duty multi-port terminals which opened up the ability to add more stuff....pretty sure I have spent more in the last few days on this jeep than I did rebuilding my midget LMAO!! As we speak my wife and daughter are on the couch ordering more stuff.....
 

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2013 JKU Sahara.
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Got the terminals in and changed the negative out. Every time I went to cut the wires on the positive side it would start raining. That'll be tomorrow lol. Looks clean, nice and it is tight. I also got the Sahara stickers and the flag stickers off with a Guitar pick and patience.

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Got my Apex AutoLynx installed and got my Artec inner fenders trimmed up. Had these sitting in a box since July and finally got them in and gonna wheel with it this weekend. I think I've had a lot of different iterations of sway bar links from the Rubicon e-disconnect, then moving to the Evo no limits knob, then the JKS quicker disconnects, and now these.

Also Found out my main rear seal is leaking but very slightly so will have to keep an eye on it as my local shop didn't have any appointments until after thanksgiving.


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Replaced my RE Monotube 2.5" lfit rear shocks with Rancho 9000XL 30 shocks. Nothing wrong with the RE ones, they are nice shocks and i'll post on sale more like tomorrow. Only 5 months/4k miles old. got the Ranchos cause i wanted a little longer rear shocks.
I have set at #5 and they're little harsh at that setting when crossing speed bumps. I'll play with the knobs as well and wait for a few hundred miles break-in.

2021-11-18_05-08-11 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

2021-11-18_05-07-09 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
 

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Also got my Currie antirock installed today. I had this thing in my garage since 2015, ran it for a couple of months in my 1st JKU and didn't really like it so it went into a box back then. That box resurfaced in my garage after i did some cleaning couple of days ago. I was missing some hardware so i ordered what i needed from the Rockjock dudes and it came out to be $30. I didn't have the Currie heims that come in the kit, don't remember what i did with those and i wasn't going to pay $170 for new ones especially not knowing if i was going to like tha bar or not so I ported my JKS disconnects to the Antirock and called it a day :)

2021-11-18_05-08-01 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

2021-11-18_05-07-54 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

2021-11-18_05-08-06 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
 

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Replaced my RE Monotube 2.5" lfit rear shocks with Rancho 9000XL 30 shocks. Nothing wrong with the RE ones, they are nice shocks and i'll post on sale more like tomorrow. Only 5 months/4k miles old. got the Ranchos cause i wanted a little longer rear shocks.
I have set at #5 and they're little harsh at that setting when crossing speed bumps. I'll play with the knobs as well and wait for a few hundred miles break-in.

2021-11-18_05-08-11 by RAM RSM, on Flickr

2021-11-18_05-07-09 by RAM RSM, on Flickr
I run setting 3 all around for mine (31s in the front, 30s in the rear).

You might want to spin the rear shock around so that the adjustment knob is inboard instead of outboard. Makes it a little harder to adjust, but puts the adjustment knob in a much safer position.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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I have set at #5 and they're little harsh at that setting when crossing speed bumps. I'll play with the knobs as well and wait for a few hundred miles break-in.
I run 4 in front, 2 in rear for street driving. Falken 34's.
 

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Today I replaced my oil cooler housing with the new aluminum one from Dorman. I have the lifetime “Warranty” (service plan) which has been great but the techs just kept saying there was no oil leak and it was residual oil from a leaking valve cover (they cracked it replacing the PCV valve). It was at the dealership a month the first time and they did fix a laundry list of smaller issues but missed the cracked valve cover.
Second visit a week later they fixed the valve cover and gasket. Still leaked. Third visit they said there is no leak (Jedi mind trick from the service advisor). Honestly they have been good, just didn’t get it.
I did not find a super obvious leak, but it appeared as though many of the gaskets were leaking a little. I will know for sure if the new oil cooler housing did it after watching it a few days. If not, probably a rear main.
Of note, the red locking tabs on the fuel injectors were trash, they do not take the heat and just crumbled as I tried to pull them up. Two hours later with handmade special tools I managed to get them all disconnected. I see a vented hood in my future, plastic just breaks down after 120,000 miles in the under the hood heat.
 

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Today I replaced my oil cooler housing with the new aluminum one from Dorman. I have the lifetime “Warranty” (service plan) which has been great but the techs just kept saying there was no oil leak and it was residual oil from a leaking valve cover (they cracked it replacing the PCV valve). It was at the dealership a month the first time and they did fix a laundry list of smaller issues but missed the cracked valve cover.
Second visit a week later they fixed the valve cover and gasket. Still leaked. Third visit they said there is no leak (Jedi mind trick from the service advisor). Honestly they have been good, just didn’t get it.
I did not find a super obvious leak, but it appeared as though many of the gaskets were leaking a little. I will know for sure if the new oil cooler housing did it after watching it a few days. If not, probably a rear main.
Of note, the red locking tabs on the fuel injectors were trash, they do not take the heat and just crumbled as I tried to pull them up. Two hours later with handmade special tools I managed to get them all disconnected. I see a vented hood in my future, plastic just breaks down after 120,000 miles in the under the hood heat.
How did the crack a cable cover changing a PCV?
 

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I run setting 3 all around for mine (31s in the front, 30s in the rear).

You might want to spin the rear shock around so that the adjustment knob is inboard instead of outboard. Makes it a little harder to adjust, but puts the adjustment knob in a much safer position.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Ty for the tip (y), i'll rotate them tomorrow.
 

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Today I replaced the thermostat. It was easier than I thought it was going to be.

Sun went down and I pulled the grill and aligned the headlights. It seems the previous owner stuck the led headlights in and didn't point them correctly. Low beam was high and the brights where waaaaaay high. Didn't get flashed when I took it for a test drive 🤣
 

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Threw this on finally! :)

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[Some wiring pics attached.]

Be warned though that the x20 comes with a scored drum (I am told that happens during testing of them with cable and should be sanded and re enameled before pre-tensioning the dyneema that comes with it in the box.)
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Tech support was great in letting me know that its not the unprotected metal that will rust immediatly in New England that is the problem, its the sharp edges that are created by those gouges. 🙄 No issue of you stay with steel on the drum though. Despite the surprise in the box, I did appreciate the straight talk from the guy I spoke with.

Ready for heavy snow this winter....

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Today I replaced my oil cooler housing with the new aluminum one from Dorman. I have the lifetime “Warranty” (service plan) which has been great but the techs just kept saying there was no oil leak and it was residual oil from a leaking valve cover (they cracked it replacing the PCV valve). It was at the dealership a month the first time and they did fix a laundry list of smaller issues but missed the cracked valve cover.
Second visit a week later they fixed the valve cover and gasket. Still leaked. Third visit they said there is no leak (Jedi mind trick from the service advisor). Honestly they have been good, just didn’t get it.
I did not find a super obvious leak, but it appeared as though many of the gaskets were leaking a little. I will know for sure if the new oil cooler housing did it after watching it a few days. If not, probably a rear main.
Of note, the red locking tabs on the fuel injectors were trash, they do not take the heat and just crumbled as I tried to pull them up. Two hours later with handmade special tools I managed to get them all disconnected. I see a vented hood in my future, plastic just breaks down after 120,000 miles in the under the hood heat.
To follow up on the Dorman aluminum oil cooler housing, I love the housing, it’s well made and fits great. The gaskets supplied by Dorman are total garbage though. Less than 24 hours after installed and one failed. So today was a repeat of yesterday but much faster as I am now trained. I installed the gel pro gaskets which I think are vastly superior to the Dorman ones. If you install the Dorman aluminum housing, use the better gaskets from Fel Pro or Mopar.
 

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