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Does the upgraded Alpine system suck?

  • Yes

    Votes: 23 30.7%
  • No

    Votes: 52 69.3%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sahara and Rubicon have it built in. Turning it into a poll. Maybe this will be read by someone higher up in the production cycle and will fix it for people in the future.

P.s I took a listen to one today in-depth. I feel like for the money it sucks but it's "decent." Better than most stock systems in general I think, just not worth $1-$2k.
 

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I have built a couple pretty impressive sounding systems, costing thousands of dollars. Here is the car I traded in to get my jeep....
2008.5 MazdaSpeed3 Install - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
reidid my rear end (mazdaspeed 3, 2008) - DIYMA Car Audio Forum
Simple e36 M3 Build - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

This should give you a reference when I say that the sound system in my 2013 Rubi sounds pretty good for an OEM system. You have to mess with the EQ a bit, but honestly it sounds pretty good to me.THe base is pretty decent and doesn't sound hollow like a lot of factory systems. You can feel it more than in most cars. The mids are decent. THe highs are a bit lacking though.

Having said all this however, I intend on pulling out the speakers, bypassing the factory amp and installing all new speakers and amps. I will use a JBL MS-8 or the new Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.3 for the head unit integration.
 

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To me, it sounds much better when I stream pandora via bluetooth than the Sat radio. Either way, it's MUCH better than the system I had in my TJ and not quite as good as the "bose" system in my Yukon.

Sounds good to me.
 

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I cant vote cause I have the Infinity instead of Alpine but it sounds good to me.
 

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Remember, it does not cost $1K-$2K by itself.

On a Sport, it is a $395 option....and comes with another 12v outlet in the rear (big selling point for me).

It reminds me of the Anti-spin option. It is fairly inexpensive and covered under warranty, but also pretty marginal at best (especially when compared to aftermarket products).

Now if you are talking about adding in the 430n or 730n....that is a different story IMO.
 

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I think it sounds good, particularly with CD or streaming quality MP3 audio. Radio and Sat signals, not so much. Plenty of volume, crisp bass response, but I agree the upper range is a little weak. Top down at 70MPH in traffic on the interstate and I can hear it just fine over all the other noise.

It is leaps and bounds better than the system that was in my '09 F-150, but not quite as good as the OEM system that is in the '07 Commander.

It's certainly not the end all-be all, but I'm happy with it and don't plan to make any changes.

For reference my Jeep is a 2 door soft top (but the top is rarely closed). Maybe the 4 door owners' experience is different due to the sub being farther back and perhaps the overall larger interior volume has some affect on the acoustics.
 

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It sounds pretty good, like one has said, its not a $2000 option, is it the bose or HK system in a Porsche or BMW? Absolutly not...
Works fine for the 99%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow this is an overwhelming poll that should be helpful for decision makers compared to the other threads.

I'm 90% convinced I'm going to go with this option:
Sahara + 430N and use the sound system for a while and then put a Roxford 3Sixty to bypass Amp/Setup new speakers. That way I keep factory and I'm happy.
 

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It sounds fine. It's a Jeep and the acoustics are not tailored like a Mercedes Benz or BMW.
 

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Wow this is an overwhelming poll that should be helpful for decision makers compared to the other threads.

I'm 90% convinced I'm going to go with this option:
Sahara + 430N and use the sound system for a while and then put a Roxford 3Sixty to bypass Amp/Setup new speakers. That way I keep factory and I'm happy.
Just keep in mind that you will need a new amp with that processor.

I'm going to roll with a non nav, stock HU and the stock amp with new 2 ohm speakers. Marginal increase in quailty, but I'm also not laying out a lot of money. $400 or so. I just hate being stock with 2 ohm drivers. (I can live with a 2 ohm DVC sub as that can be worked around).


In your case, you are talking about an additional $1000 now for nav, plus another $600 for the processor down the line. No matter what, you will need new speakers and amps, so I won't add that in right now.

You should really compare what that $1600 (430n + processor) will get you versus an aftermarket HU and adapters.

Stealth vs Quality
Warranty vs Value


A good aftermarket HU means you won't need a processor because you will have already have front, rear, and sub RCA outs.

Good Luck!
 

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I've been looking for this thread:

Kicker CRV8 in factory subwoofer enclosure install.

It is on another forum.....an 8 page write-up.

Probably one of the best ways to stay stealth and keep you stock HU.
I think he also posts on this forum (I've seen some of the pics before on this forum), but I'm not sure.
Either way...even if you don't swap factory amps (he tried the Kicker upgrade before everyone found out it does not work with the Infinity/Alpine system), his choice and mounting of the sub amp is PERFECT.

Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1
150w x 2 at 2 ohms or 300w x 1 at 1 ohm.
Both pre-amp and line level inputs.
7 inches by 4.5 inches
Variable low/high pass filter (35hz-250hz at 12db slope)
Optional remote bass boost at 45hz

He went with the Kicker sub 2 ohm DVC(the one with the ugly grill)....and I'd probably go Alpine. But being able to push 150w to both channels at 2 ohms would be AWESOME. All with everything tucked away. I would probably use the sub line outs on the stock amp to connect to the PBR300x1
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've been looking for this thread:

Kicker CRV8 in factory subwoofer enclosure install.

It is on another forum.....an 8 page write-up.

Probably one of the best ways to stay stealth and keep you stock HU.
I think he also posts on this forum (I've seen some of the pics before on this forum), but I'm not sure.
Either way...even if you don't swap factory amps (he tried the Kicker upgrade before everyone found out it does not work with the Infinity/Alpine system), his choice and mounting of the sub amp is PERFECT.

Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1
150w x 2 at 2 ohms or 300w x 1 at 1 ohm.
Both pre-amp and line level inputs.
7 inches by 4.5 inches
Variable low/high pass filter (35hz-250hz at 12db slope)
Optional remote bass boost at 45hz

He went with the Kicker sub 2 ohm DVC(the one with the ugly grill)....and I'd probably go Alpine. But being able to push 150w to both channels at 2 ohms would be AWESOME. All with everything tucked away. I would probably use the sub line outs on the stock amp to connect to the PBR300x1
So doing that you can keep 430N and upgrade speakers/sub?

I'm trying to understand it to the best of my ability. I don't know audio well. But that's what I'm getting out of it. I have no idea how to wire shit though so I'd need to pay someone to copy this setup. The mounting looks hard :p.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've been looking for this thread:

Kicker CRV8 in factory subwoofer enclosure install.

It is on another forum.....an 8 page write-up.

Probably one of the best ways to stay stealth and keep you stock HU.
I think he also posts on this forum (I've seen some of the pics before on this forum), but I'm not sure.
Either way...even if you don't swap factory amps (he tried the Kicker upgrade before everyone found out it does not work with the Infinity/Alpine system), his choice and mounting of the sub amp is PERFECT.

Rockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1
150w x 2 at 2 ohms or 300w x 1 at 1 ohm.
Both pre-amp and line level inputs.
7 inches by 4.5 inches
Variable low/high pass filter (35hz-250hz at 12db slope)
Optional remote bass boost at 45hz

He went with the Kicker sub 2 ohm DVC(the one with the ugly grill)....and I'd probably go Alpine. But being able to push 150w to both channels at 2 ohms would be AWESOME. All with everything tucked away. I would probably use the sub line outs on the stock amp to connect to the PBR300x1
Does this improve the highs of the stock system because a separate amp is powering the sub?
 

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Does this improve the highs of the stock system because a separate amp is powering the sub?
No, this by itself won't improve the highs...but it will increase the bass.

However, switching speakers woild improve the highs becaue the stock system only has 2 tweeters (just the ones in the dash). Many people who have upgraded speakers noticed (if not complained) that the highs were "very high". That is because if you swap in 2 sets of 6.5's, you go from 2 total tweeters to 6 total tweeters....being that most aftermarket 6.5's are 2-way speakers....

I emailed Kicker today to see if their drop-ins (MOPAR 77Kick10) are 2-ohms or not....but I have not heard back yet.

If they have decent specs (frequency and sensitivity), and are 2 ohms, I may go with those.
 

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My tweeters sound like crap at higher volumes..almost as if they're blown...how easy is it to swap them out for something better?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No, this by itself won't improve the highs...but it will increase the bass.

However, switching speakers woild improve the highs becaue the stock system only has 2 tweeters (just the ones in the dash). Many people who have upgraded speakers noticed (if not complained) that the highs were "very high". That is because if you swap in 2 sets of 6.5's, you go from 2 total tweeters to 6 total tweeters....being that most aftermarket 6.5's are 2-way speakers....

I emailed Kicker today to see if their drop-ins (MOPAR 77Kick10) are 2-ohms or not....but I have not heard back yet.

If they have decent specs (frequency and sensitivity), and are 2 ohms, I may go with those.
So if I could 430N I could:

Splice extra wires for 2nd amp to power sub individually (potentially the mopar upgrade?)
Replace the 2 tweeters with 6.5's powered by stock amp.

That's the plan you'd recommend? I have no idea how to splice but I'd tell whatever audio installer the details so they don't have to figure it out.
 

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My tweeters sound like crap at higher volumes..almost as if they're blown...how easy is it to swap them out for something better?
Fitment will depend on the size of the tweeter. Also make sure to go with 2 ohm tweeters or else you'll lose a lot of power going to them if you choose the standard 4 ohm tweeter. I have my eye on the new 10.11T tweeters from Infinity. These should sound great:

Infinity Kappa 10.11t 3/4" soft dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com
 

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So if I could 430N I could:

Splice extra wires for 2nd amp to power sub individually (potentially the mopar upgrade?)
Replace the 2 tweeters with 6.5's powered by stock amp.

That's the plan you'd recommend? I have no idea how to splice but I'd tell whatever audio installer the details so they don't have to figure it out.
Jeep calls is a 368W system. But they also have 276W amps for some vehicles.

I sometimes wonder how this stuff is rated. According to the amp schematics, and from what I've read, the stock tweeters are actually powered by the HU, not the amp.

So if you swap just the 6.5's, you will have the tweeters in the dash, along with the tweeters in the new 6.5's.

You can then power the new "sub amp" (RF 300x1) from the current powered sub outs of the stock amp.

With amp:
2008-2009 Jeep Wrangler with Infinity Wiring Information

Without amp:
2008-2009 Jeep Wrangler without Infinity Wiring Information


It would be nice if both Jeep and Kicker were clear on how their amps are rated.

I would actually rather have a 4.1 channel "Kicker" amp putting out 70 watts per channel at 4 ohms with "pre-amp" level sub feed that I could route to a sub amp, than 8 channels of 2 ohm wasted power.
 

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Just got the following email back from Kicker:
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The 77Kick10 is a 4 ohm 6.5 with a rated frequency response of 40 Hz – 21 KHz. They can handle 6-65 watts RMS and have a sensitivity of 90 dB.

The Mopar branded amps are designed to run at 4 ohm on the multi-channel and ½ ohm or 1 ohm on the sub amps/channels. The 8 channel amp that we use in premium audio Jeep Wranglers is rated at 368 watts.


Thank you,


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A bit of a bummer that the 77Kick10's are 4 ohms.
That means either a new Kicker amp, or different after market speakers.

I'm going to email them back to get their opinion on a different amp.
 

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Just got the following email back from Kicker:
-----------

The 77Kick10 is a 4 ohm 6.5 with a rated frequency response of 40 Hz – 21 KHz. They can handle 6-65 watts RMS and have a sensitivity of 90 dB.

The Mopar branded amps are designed to run at 4 ohm on the multi-channel and ½ ohm or 1 ohm on the sub amps/channels. The 8 channel amp that we use in premium audio Jeep Wranglers is rated at 368 watts.


Thank you,


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A bit of a bummer that the 77Kick10's are 4 ohms.
That means either a new Kicker amp, or different after market speakers.

I'm going to email them back to get their opinion on a different amp.
Why are you guys so hung up on it being 2 ohm. Don't get hung up on doubling the wattage output. It is very possible that the upper range channels will not support a 2 ohm load and you will over heat your OEM amp, maybe damaging it. You will have a hard time finding speakers that are 2 ohm (though possible). If you insist on keeping the oem amp (not a bad option actually) then you MUST chose speakers that perform well with about 60w rms (maybe 50 to be safe). You should NOT chose speakers with the built in tweeters (coaxial) but rather get speakers that are components and mount the new tweets in the oem location. Getting coaxials will confuse an already weak front stage and overcompensate the high end.

This will give you the best sound without replacing the factory amp, and cost a small amount of money.

The part I do not know however is the wiring on the '13. Is the crossover done at the amp (so sparate channel for tweet and mid-base) or is there a passive crossover somewhere and what is the xover frequency? THe xover frequency should also be taken into account when chosing a speaker.
 
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