what else would i need to install 3 in body lift
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Is there a chance we can talk you out of that 3" body lift and exchanging it for either a 1" body lift or a 3" suspension lift? Or if you don't want to spend the $$$ for a full-on suspension lift, 2" budget boost kits are not all that expensive.
3" body lifts not only look terrible to most Jeepers, they are difficult to install right due to all the mods that are needed to things like the shifters, etc. to get things working correctly after lifting the body that far up off the frame. Most of us recommend no higher than a 1" body lift, 2" at the very most. Plus if your TJ has air conditioning, that 3" body lift is going to be pretty much impossible to install. A 3" even a 2") suspension lift, though more expensive, is much preferrable to a 3" body lift. MUCH preferrable. Plus you'll get increased ground clearance with a suspension lift, a body lift does not increase ground clearance.
3" body lifts not only look terrible to most Jeepers, they are difficult to install right due to all the mods that are needed to things like the shifters, etc. to get things working correctly after lifting the body that far up off the frame. Most of us recommend no higher than a 1" body lift, 2" at the very most. Plus if your TJ has air conditioning, that 3" body lift is going to be pretty much impossible to install. A 3" even a 2") suspension lift, though more expensive, is much preferrable to a 3" body lift. MUCH preferrable. Plus you'll get increased ground clearance with a suspension lift, a body lift does not increase ground clearance.
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I have installed a 1" before and it was not too bad. Just take your time read the directions all the way then start the install. As I recall on the 2" there may be some extra work needed on the steering joint/bracket, and of course as always keep checking to make sure none of you hose's are getting bent or about to be pulled out as you lift the body up. Then there is the fun with the radiator.
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Do you think they would exchange it for a 2" budget boost? Price should be close or the same and a lot less stress on you and the jeep. Plus, it will look a whole lot better. My last jeep I had 2" springs with a 1" body lift and never rubbed the tires except on an RTI ramp.
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Are you talking about a 2" body lift or a 2" budget boost suspension lift? No offense but do you know the difference? Few new Jeepers know the difference so no worries if you're not up on that yet. If you aren't quite sure yet, it's quickly explained.
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4,280 Posts
JKS has some instructions on their site. Along with www.endlessadventureoffroad.com.
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155 Posts
i just want the biggist bang for my buck. I put on 31 about six months ago and i need more room. If the two in body lift is the way to go then that is what i will do. But if the budget boost is the way to go and im gonna get the same amount of lift then that is the way to go .
well Jbone303 i was also thinking of the budged boost but then let say you want to add 4" of suspension lift later you will need to take off and "throw away" the 2BBoost.. if you do 2" Bboost now and then switch to 4 you will replace the parts you just changed but if you go with 2" bodylift you will get around 6" of lift in the end since you will stack it up.
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If your goal is to clear your 31s, I vote for the 2" budget boost. Granted if you ever go higher it will be replaced, so the question you have to ask yourself is: if and when do you plan on going bigger? If you don't plan on adding bigger tires in the near future, the budget boost is definately the way to go. All a body lift will do for you (unless you do a tummy tuck, motor mount lift, gas tank lift, etc) is increase your tire clearance, decrease your overhead clearance, and make your jeep look goofy. Not only will the budget boost look better, but unlike the body lift, it will give you more ground clearance thus making your jeep even more offroad capeable than it already is.
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if you wanted 4 inches of lift then you would just keep the BB with the 2" BL (2" BL's suck.) if he wanted six inches of lift then your gonna take it off anyway because thats way to high to be ridin on short arms!!!
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When the chassis is 6" above the axles, standard length control arms are at an excessive angle that is more vertical than the ideal horizontal angle. That does a couple negative things such as making the ride extremely stiff with lots of shock transmitted up the control arms to the chassis and tub, together with those same steep angles making it near impossible for the suspension to move up and down to allow a tire to climb an obstacle without the control arm pushing straight into the chassis instead of flexing upwards as it would if it were horizontal. (How was that for a long run-on sentence!)
Anyway... 6" of lift height is well beyond where a long-arm suspension system becomes highly recommended. The longer arms are more parallel to the ground at taller lift heights which allows them to flex more easily.
Yep i thought thats what you guys thought.. what i had in mind is 4" RC suspension lift and 2" body lift which should add up to around 6 in the end..
I heard people putting some kind of blocks or something to lower the control arm points on 6" lifts so the angles are not as steep... Never seen a pic of it though.
I wish i had +2000 to buy a long arm kit, maybe i might win the lottery for new years eh?
I heard people putting some kind of blocks or something to lower the control arm points on 6" lifts so the angles are not as steep... Never seen a pic of it though.
I wish i had +2000 to buy a long arm kit, maybe i might win the lottery for new years eh?
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