What else
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3,762 Posts
More money!
What lift are you installing? What does it come with?
That would help people on recommending stuff.
I don't like taking a stab in the dark with a bunch of Jeep dudes!!
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12,148 Posts
If that's what you've decided to do, you'll need a minimum of 1 1/2" tc drop or less drop plus a motormount lift. You'll also need a drop bracket for your tc shift linkage, shocks, plus the suspension parts that the others have already mentioned. Stacking 2" spacers on longer than stock springs is not a great idea IMHO. The spring perches are already slighly out of alignment with the lift, then you're adding another potential pivot point (2" lower) on top of that.
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2,098 Posts
Yeah that's a big no no. You could put max 0.75" spacers on top of lift coils. Why don't you just wait, save up some extra cash, and do it right? Or save up and just do a 3" lift? It's a good compromise that needs less aftermarket parts to function properly.
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3,762 Posts
FYI, You can get away with 33" tires with just a 2.25" Budget Boost and a 1.25" Body lift. Add a 1" motor mount lift with it, and you will not have to do the counter-productive transfer case drop. I have a JKS 1.25"BL/mml.
If you decide to get a winch later and your front end sags, you could swap the front spacer for some 3" springs. Other things I added to that lift when I had the cash: longer shocks, front sway bar disconnects, and a adjustable front track bar. I did not change the rear sway bar links or track bar. I ran that way for years before I changed everything. Here's pics of what it used to look like.
If you decide to get a winch later and your front end sags, you could swap the front spacer for some 3" springs. Other things I added to that lift when I had the cash: longer shocks, front sway bar disconnects, and a adjustable front track bar. I did not change the rear sway bar links or track bar. I ran that way for years before I changed everything. Here's pics of what it used to look like.
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3,547 Posts
Between the TC drop and stacking 2" spacers on 2" coils your making a very poor functioning and not very safe lift. You need to look around to see what is needed to run a 4" lift properly. I would highly suggest if you really want to do a 4" lift you get 4" coils and do everything right. Or, Do a 3" lift with a 1.25" body lift with a 1" motor lift.
I forgot to add to my original post "And you need adjustable upper rear control arms, remove the TC drop ( why do a lift if your just going to drop the TC?) you need an SYE with a double cardan drive shaft, longer front brake lines and bump stop extensions." Your going to need front and rear adjust able track bars and a rear track bar relocator.
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82 Posts
Do you need a rear track bar relocater even if you have a rear adjustable track bar?
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233 Posts
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233 Posts
Understandable.
If you have:
Springs and spacers
Swaybar links
Shocks
TC drop
You will need:
Bumpstop extensions
Rear tracbar relocation bracket
Front lower control arms
You will have to relocate your front tracbar which you can do by drilling a new hole in the existing bracket
If you have:
Springs and spacers
Swaybar links
Shocks
TC drop
You will need:
Bumpstop extensions
Rear tracbar relocation bracket
Front lower control arms
You will have to relocate your front tracbar which you can do by drilling a new hole in the existing bracket
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247 Posts
Okay. Thanks for the honesty. I've just always had a truck and some stuff is similar but going from a 1968 f-100 with a 351 clevland, 6-inch and 35's, to a 1999 jeep wrangler with a 4-cyl... is a huge difference. So I will have a total of 4 inch or more?
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3,547 Posts
If you do a true 4" lift the correct way you should have a little more. Your going from old sagging springs to new springs. When I went from stock springs and a 2"bb to BDS 3" springs i gained almost 2" of lift.
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