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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay. Putting a four inch on the jeep. New jeeper, so don't make fun. What else do i need?
I have:
Wheels
33x12.50r15
3"-4" sway bar links
T.C. drop "made myself"
What else would I honestly need?
 

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Front adj. LCA's to reset caster angle if you care about your steering being good
 

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And you need adjustable upper rear control arms, remove the TC drop ( why do a lift if your just going to drop the TC?) you need an SYE with a double cardan drive shaft, longer front brake lines and bump stop extensions.
 

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Okay. Putting a four inch on the jeep. New jeeper, so don't make fun. What else do i need?
I have:
Wheels
33x12.50r15
3"-4" sway bar links
T.C. drop "made myself"
What else would I honestly need?
More money!:)


What lift are you installing? What does it come with?
That would help people on recommending stuff.

I don't like taking a stab in the dark with a bunch of Jeep dudes!!
 

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If that's what you've decided to do, you'll need a minimum of 1 1/2" tc drop or less drop plus a motormount lift. You'll also need a drop bracket for your tc shift linkage, shocks, plus the suspension parts that the others have already mentioned. Stacking 2" spacers on longer than stock springs is not a great idea IMHO. The spring perches are already slighly out of alignment with the lift, then you're adding another potential pivot point (2" lower) on top of that.
 

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Delete double post
 

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Two inch spacers with 2 inch coil.
Yeah that's a big no no. You could put max 0.75" spacers on top of lift coils. Why don't you just wait, save up some extra cash, and do it right? Or save up and just do a 3" lift? It's a good compromise that needs less aftermarket parts to function properly.
 

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FYI, You can get away with 33" tires with just a 2.25" Budget Boost and a 1.25" Body lift. Add a 1" motor mount lift with it, and you will not have to do the counter-productive transfer case drop. I have a JKS 1.25"BL/mml.
If you decide to get a winch later and your front end sags, you could swap the front spacer for some 3" springs. Other things I added to that lift when I had the cash: longer shocks, front sway bar disconnects, and a adjustable front track bar. I did not change the rear sway bar links or track bar. I ran that way for years before I changed everything. Here's pics of what it used to look like.



 

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Two inch spacers with 2 inch coil.
Between the TC drop and stacking 2" spacers on 2" coils your making a very poor functioning and not very safe lift. You need to look around to see what is needed to run a 4" lift properly. I would highly suggest if you really want to do a 4" lift you get 4" coils and do everything right. Or, Do a 3" lift with a 1.25" body lift with a 1" motor lift.

I forgot to add to my original post "And you need adjustable upper rear control arms, remove the TC drop ( why do a lift if your just going to drop the TC?) you need an SYE with a double cardan drive shaft, longer front brake lines and bump stop extensions." Your going to need front and rear adjust able track bars and a rear track bar relocator.
 

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This is a fail build. To fit 33's Id look at a 2" suspension lift with 1" BL/MML..........again though, even a mild lift like this done right requires a bit of money.
 

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This is a fail build. To fit 33's Id look at a 2" suspension lift with 1" BL/MML..........again though, even a mild lift like this done right requires a bit of money.
Yup. Im stepping up from my 2" BB to a 3" lift with a 1.25" body 1" motor and a ultra high skid plate tummy tuck and Ive spent a lot of money on it so far and theres more to be spent. :banghead: but at the same time Im enjoying it! :D
 

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Between the TC drop and stacking 2" spacers on 2" coils your making a very poor functioning and not very safe lift. You need to look around to see what is needed to run a 4" lift properly. I would highly suggest if you really want to do a 4" lift you get 4" coils and do everything right. Or, Do a 3" lift with a 1.25" body lift with a 1" motor lift.

I forgot to add to my original post "And you need adjustable upper rear control arms, remove the TC drop ( why do a lift if your just going to drop the TC?) you need an SYE with a double cardan drive shaft, longer front brake lines and bump stop extensions." Your going to need front and rear adjust able track bars and a rear track bar relocator.
Do you need a rear track bar relocater even if you have a rear adjustable track bar?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dude, I change my momd 8 different times when it comes to something like this. So I should have a 4-4 1/2 lift?
 

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Understandable.

If you have:
Springs and spacers
Swaybar links
Shocks
TC drop

You will need:
Bumpstop extensions
Rear tracbar relocation bracket
Front lower control arms

You will have to relocate your front tracbar which you can do by drilling a new hole in the existing bracket
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay. Thanks for the honesty. I've just always had a truck and some stuff is similar but going from a 1968 f-100 with a 351 clevland, 6-inch and 35's, to a 1999 jeep wrangler with a 4-cyl... is a huge difference. So I will have a total of 4 inch or more?
 

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Okay. Thanks for the honesty. I've just always had a truck and some stuff is similar but going from a 1968 f-100 with a 351 clevland, 6-inch and 35's, to a 1999 jeep wrangler with a 4-cyl... is a huge difference. So I will have a total of 4 inch or more?
If you do a true 4" lift the correct way you should have a little more. Your going from old sagging springs to new springs. When I went from stock springs and a 2"bb to BDS 3" springs i gained almost 2" of lift.
 
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