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If you want to fold your windshield down next week, start right now by spraying PB Blaster on the hinge pins. Do it daily and maybe you won't break a hinge.
I replaced my windshield frame in late 2013 or early 1014. At that time I loosened the hinge pins with a torch and then oiled them. Then last summer when I folded my windshield forward the hinges were difficult to move, even after spraying them with penetrating oil for a day or so.

I usually give the hinge pins a shot of oil as I do my twice a year oil change/grease job/look everything over for problems. Maybe I should drive around a couple times a year with my windshield down just to keep everything loosened up.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I laid down on my console, and used my feet/legs, to put constant pressure on it, and it broke free - first time since new it had been down!
You're lucky.
Even though I'm "Lucky Mac", I wasn't so lucky.
I oiled and wiggled my old windshield frame hinges back and forth and oiled and wiggled my windshield frame hinges back and forth, I still broke my passenger side hinge at the hinge pin.
"Luckily", I have a welder and I welded the hinge back together. The heat from welding loosened the corrosion inside the hinge pin area and with some heat on the other hinge with a propane torch, both hinges worked freely at that time.

Lucky again, all this was as I was replacing my windshield frame and before I painted my Jeep.

I have oil holes in my hinges that I don't see on too many Jeeps. This is where I shoot oil during my bi-yearly services (once in spring and one in fall).

Good Luck to all, L.M.
 

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Not on my '93, it still uses the stock key.
On my '94 I plan on re-keying it this weekend to match the new ignition key.
Is there something odd about the tailgate lock cylinder I am not aware of?
I just went through this.

I have 1992 doors on a 1987 YJ. The lock cylinders are different.
CJ through 1990 all use the same GM style lock cylinders. 1991 and 1992 and possibly some 1993 use a different lock cylinder.

I had hoped to buy a set of 3 1987 through 1990 lock cylinders and use the lock extension from the 1992 locks on the back of the earlier lock cylinders. They are too different to retrofit. The openings in the 1992 doors are smaller and I had planned to file the holes larger, but without being able to adapt the 1992 parts, I simply ordered a set of '92 cylinders and now have 3 keys.
1 for the ignition, 1 for the doors and one for the tailgate.

I would prefer to have one key for all the locks but I guess I'll get by.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I would prefit my doors and lock cylinders prior to painting. I think the 1990 door lock holes are too big to securely hold the later model lock cylinders.

Whatever doors you use, be certain to fit them to the tub BEFORE having them painted or painting them yourself.

The attached pics show how much I had to adjust my 1992 doors to fit my 1987 tub. The outline around the hinge isn't shadow. That is how much I had to move the hinge to get the door to fit. Just imagine how upset I would be if I had the doors painted first.

When you pre-fit the doors, do it with the striker bolt removed. That way you can get a good fit of the door to the tub without fighting the striker. Once the door fits the tub properly, than re-install the striker and adjust it.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Ordered a new battery box for my Jeep, Going to install a 2 gallon air tank below it, and plumb it into my ARB compressor, mount my battery in the new box, and start looking for a second Optima and a GOOD isolator kit...

Optima Dual Battery Box, Widthwise - RuffStuff Specialties
I have a Battery Doctor isolator. I've had it for well over a year and so far, not a bit of a problem. Just install it and forget it.
Mine is a 100A. model which is just fine for my 76A. alternator. If I installed a 125A. or larger alternator, I'd have to get the next larger Battery doctor isolator.

Some guys like something more mechanical that you have to get under the hood to turn the switch to charge one battery or the other. I can't be bothered.
The Battery Doctor keeps my winch battery fully charged and I don't have to pay attention to when I last switched the battery to be charged.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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Removed PO's crappy wiring harness for my off-road LEDs and installed my own new one. Lights work now!! :bop:
Golly, how many of us can make the same post.
What is it with POs? Especially radio wires.
If there are any virgin underdash wire looms left, I'll bet that any radio manufacturer has a pigtail to connect their radio into any dash harness. Why cut & chop up a good harness when a pigtail makes a nice clean job for about $15.00.

Don't get me started on the underhood rats nests I've seen where the PO (or current customer) drapes loose wires to some accessory.

WIRES BELONG IN A LOOM!!! You can buy plastic loom material at any auto parts store.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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LOL!! I install looms every time I replace something. I get it though, back in my younger days, I didn't really care much, so I twisted and taped half-assed connections without a care in the world. Perhaps this is payback...
Hmmm. You may be on to something. I thought the same thing after I posted the above. Back then, I knew it all. Now that I've learned a lot, I find I don't know very much at all.

Karma is a bitch.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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You don't have to drop the tank.
Just wiggle the outer rubber bushing out and then you can tilt the shackle enough to get it out of the frame. Installation is reverse of removal. Dish soap aids removal and install.

If one of your front tires rubs at full turn after spring installation, look at the way the bolt goes through the spring clamp. I have General Springs and had that issue. Simple to cure, just reverse the offending bolt.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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My wife isn't as tall as I am. She finally drove the Jeep for the first time and had trouble pushing the clutch in. I want it to be easy for her, so this is my solution.

It is what it looks like. Just a piece of 2X4 and a couple 1/4" stove bolts.
I simply removed the rubber pad and drilled the metal part of the pedal with a with a 9/32" drill bit and matched those holes to the wooden pedal extension.
It's solid and makes holding the clutch in at lights even easier for me.
Usually I just throw the shifter into neutral and don't engage 1st gear until the cross traffic light turns yellow. Unless it's a long light, I now usually simply keep the clutch pushed in and the shifter in gear.

I could have routed a nice edge on it and painted it black. I may still do so. Later, or maybe next week, or maybe sometime after that.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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For her, it's all the way forward and still difficult to depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, thus the 'pedal extender'.

I move the seat back and the 'pedal extender' works just fine for me.

KISS and cheap.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Teardrops & Jeeps go together.

What mileage?? We don't need no stinkin' mileage.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I wonder if Texas requires retrofit of a third brake light on a vehicle that wasn't originally equipped with one? It sounds something that California or Massachusetts would require.
Could the inspection tech be mistaken?

The cat is federally required.

The dog taking a crap was because he heard something about a cat and that was the only way he could make his opinion heard (seen) (smelled) noticed.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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My wife bought a plastic flag at a silent auction and we wondered what to do with it.
My spare tire is too heavy to carry on my tailgate, so I keep a can of Fix-A-Flat in the console for DD use. I throw the spare where the back seat goes when on the trail.
We decided to put the flag on the tailgate.

Simply a couple strips of double backed tape after removing the rubber bumpers.

Hopefully, I will continue to upset the "progressives" with my patriotism.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Here it is March 17, and the tree next to banjotxs' house is already beginning to bud.
Ya gotta love Texas (in the spring....not so much in July & August).

Here in central Colorado it's been extra dry and still below freezing at night.
I can hardly wait for the spring rains.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I agree with agalloch07 and michaell, I'd hate to cut up a good OE hood.
Agalloch07 has a good reason to add the louvers. They just might allow for better cooling while poking along on the trail.
If I found my Jeep running hot while I was poking along, I might look for a cheap beat up used hood or I might check out the cost of an aftermarket hood.
I'm a retired bodyman, so I could possibly make a beat up used hood suitable for my Jeep with some work and then I wouldn't feel bad about cutting louver holes.
Cost is always an issue.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Smoking a 7 lb pork butt! View attachment 3975257


1992, 4.0,5 spd, BDS 4.5 heavy duty lift, jb conversions ss sye, 8.8 with ARB, Aussie front, tj shafts, dual dia.brake booster, 33” bfg a/t
Just where in California do you live Steve? You can't eat that whole thing by yourself. I can bring potato salad and beer. MMMMMMM

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I have a hard top and would have had to loosen it and set it back if I wanted access to the security torx bolts.
For me, it was simpler to remove the old bolts with a Vice Grip curved jaw pliers and use the old bolt as an example to buy two hex head bolts and correct sized washers.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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JOO?? Not even a JOOP.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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I am getting ready to do my rear main seal. And wile i am in there i am going to do some preventive maintenance by replacing the oil pump and timing gears so i don't have to touch it for another 100k+ miles.


The tool they sell to install the oil pump pick up tube and screen is $90. Not wanting to pay that much money for a one time use tool and then probably never use it again i made my own. The tool works great it hammered in really smoothly and straight


You need a 5/8" split collar and a piece of pipe, i used a piece i found at my local metal yard with a 3/4" inside diameter. Just cut a notch bigger than 5/8" so the pickup tube will fit though it. Then weld it to half of the split collar so you can remove half of the split collar and remove the tool from the tube. A friend gave me the split collar but you can usually find them at a hardware store for $7 or less. And the 1 foot long piece of metal tube was $2. So you can build it for about $10
I'm impressed. :winner: You get the prize for that one.
Anytime you can save $80.00 is a good day. Now you can take Mrs. Agalloch out to dinner. Or, buy more Jeep parts.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Today I replaced my drivers side motor mount. I started hearing a clunk when accelerating between 1st and second, so I knew it was time.

What should have been a simple three bolt part swap took over an hour. The long bolt that holds the motor mount to the engine side bracket won't come all the way out without loosening the power steering pump. And, not just loosen it. I had to take the adjusting bolt all the way out and loosen the two bolts that the pump pivots on. There just isn't enough adjustment to swing the pump far enough out of the way to get the motor mount bolt all the way out without removing the adjusting bolt..

When I put the long motor mount bolt back, I put it in from the rear, rather than from the front like the factory had it.
At least now I know my power steering belt is in proper adjustment.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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