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About that worn hood/cowl seal...

good as new

View attachment 4527242
So the noise is gone, even with the new cowl seal? If so, Great!
On mine, the noise went away when I put a new cowl seal on but the noise came back as the seal compressed and wore. That's when I added a layer of adhesive backed weatherstrip, rather than another new cowl seal. Keep that in mind in case your noise returns.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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'88 Wrangler YJ 4.2 / Weber 32/36 / Nutter'd / Stick
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138 Posts
So the noise is gone, even with the new cowl seal? If so, Great!
On mine, the noise went away when I put a new cowl seal on but the noise came back as the seal compressed and wore. That's when I added a layer of adhesive backed weatherstrip, rather than another new cowl seal. Keep that in mind in case your noise returns.

Good Luck, L.M.
Didn't road test it, but was able to "bounce" it a little by hand. I'm going to just leave my fix in place and be glad that water is hopefully channeling away from the battery at least. My original seal was literally useless anyhow.
 

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Today I lost turn signals and brake lights. Today I also dug the M*F** packrat nest out of the left tail light assembly. Tomorrow I search for shorted wires.
 

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Los Angeles
1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0
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2,449 Posts
Got myself a pintle hitch for $30 today. Watch enough MattsOffRoadRecovery and how can you live without one?!

I will shorten it up a bit but just wanted to get it mounted. I actually cut 2" off of it to get the hole lined up. I will use a bandsaw at work to recut it.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Plant Vehicle

Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Wheel

Automotive tire Road surface Motor vehicle Asphalt Street light
 

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Los Angeles
1993 Wrangler YJ 4.0
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2,449 Posts
I installed a highend motion sensing alarm today.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Mode of transport Automotive exterior

Azure Sleeve Hood Grey Collar


It works as well as I was hoping, meaning that someone needs to be inside the Jeep fully for it to go off.

Tire Wheel Automotive parking light Vehicle Automotive side marker light
 

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'88 Wrangler YJ 4.2 / Weber 32/36 / Nutter'd / Stick
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138 Posts

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'88 Wrangler YJ 4.2 / Weber 32/36 / Nutter'd / Stick
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138 Posts
Cleaned the posts off of whatever the hell this is.

Has 2 thick ground cables going to it. Just right and north of the battery on the firewall.

Lower post is labeled AUX

Wood Gas Circle Magenta Metal
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Looks like somebody added a buss bar for an added battery terminal post. Ie a winch. Doesn't look like one of the terminals was being used.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Which cables were being used on it? Pos or Neg?
 

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'88 Wrangler YJ 4.2 / Weber 32/36 / Nutter'd / Stick
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138 Posts
Which cables were being used on it? Pos or Neg?
Both. One traced back to the bundle in what I think entered the ICM the other was to some round cluster of other connectors below and right of the battery box.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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The round cluster is a relay. If you can post some decent pics it would help to identify what you are working with and decipher what sounds like a PO's creativity.
 

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'88 Wrangler YJ 4.2 / Weber 32/36 / Nutter'd / Stick
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The round cluster is a relay. If you can post some decent pics it would help to identify what you are working with and decipher what sounds like a PO's creativity.
I was mistaken, the other wire leads all the way to the back and enters the tub underneath the left turn signal housing... it may have been for the hard top wiper/defog etc controls. No longer have a hard top.
 

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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Got the Wilwood clutch master for my Tonka ready to drop in. Cut the ball out of the heim joint that will serve as the clevis to attach pedal and adjusted to size. Waiting on the roll pin fitting from A.A. to finish the swap.
Wood Gas Machine tool Engineering Machine
Automotive tire Household hardware Road surface Gas Rim
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Automotive exterior Bumper
 
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'89 YJ 4.2 with MC-2150 Carb & HEI, 2-1/2" Ex. AX-15, NP231 SYE, Adams shafts, F&R ARB, 3
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Got the Wilwood clutch master for my Tonka ready to drop in. Cut the ball out of the heim joint that will serve as the clevis to attach pedal and adjusted to size. Waiting on the roll pin fitting from A.A. to finish the swap.
View attachment 4528886 View attachment 4528887 View attachment 4528888
Adding to this as I was waiting.
Original plan was to just replace master cylinder with the Wilwood, but curiosity got the best of me and so I ordered a Perfection clutch slave. @Luckymac had posted he was impressed with the cast body he received in his complete kit bought off Rock Auto so I thought I'd check it out.
Slave arrived today and upon opening the box I found there is actually a threaded plug for a bleed screw on the slave. I pulled the plug and the casting is already set to take an M8x1.25 bleeder, BONUS.
Not willing to wait, I also found the $18 fitting in a Russell (Edelbrock) on Amazon that comes in a two pack.
Here's some pics of the parts and part numbers for anyone doing an external slave and is having a hard time finding decent parts in stock.
Cylinder Gas Nickel Auto part Bicycle part
Motor vehicle Material property Gas Household hardware Metal
Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive tire Hood
Receipt Font Material property Magenta Event

Circled item on receipt is napa part number for bleeder screw. UP 22430

L. M. Did your Slave come with the bleeder plug in the kit you have for your swap?
 
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The Jeep is officially put away for the winter, along with the lawn furniture stored underneath it.

When the weather allows, I need to change all the brake rubber lines, rear drums and shoes. I am also finally replacing the fan clutch. It works, but is missing the front half and I don’t trust it. It’ll be a spare.

Lastly, I am installing a 1” drop on my transfer case. The angle of the drive shaft seems steep after my 1.5” stock spring upgrade and I keep getting a tail shaft leak. I’ve cleaned the vent tube and the tail shaft feels smooth. I’m on my 2nd seal.

I’m getting a lot of small projects done as I save for a rebuilt engine, or a rebuild of the engine that is in it.





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