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Discussion Starter #1
Ok all you DIY-ers. I have finally pieced together my 2.5" budget boost. I bummed some parts off of Jkdune and ItsMeKO3 here in the forum, Eric in Draper UT, another Eric in Riverton UT, Extreme Terrain, Hillside Tire in Sandy UT and Discount Tires Direct.

I'm ready to install.

Oh! Wait! I need some tools!!! (I have jacks and stands, and a REAL basic tool kit)

What I want to know is what did you use to install your lift?

Pneumatic tools? Hand tools?

What worked? What didn't work?

How did you bust through those rusty nuts and bolts?

I'm getting ready for this weekend and trying to stock up on everything I need so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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You have not listed any parts. Kudos to your efforts and the fine folks who contributed. But without a breakdown of parts, I cannot tell you a thing.

Bob K.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
True.
For lift parts I basically duplicated the Teraflex 2.5" Performance Budget Boost. I have the pucks for the front and rear springs, the Teraflex 9550 shocks and and steering stabilizer, longer rear sway bar links, then I'll use the stock rear sway bars in the front, Teraflex Rear trackbar relocation bracket, rear bump stop extenders (still trying to hunt down a deal on the front bump stops), 35" Goodyear Duratracs on 18" Ultra Gauntlets.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking about buying an air compressor and done air tools but not sure how big or little of a compressor to go.

From reading through the forum it seems like a compressor and air tools are a must.
 

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Air tools are very nice. And make quick work of the lower shock bolts and link bolts. The thing about air tools is the cfm ratings and the air compressor needed to make them work. A good 1/2 impact wrench, a set of deep well impact metric sockets and a wrench set going up to 21 MM will get you where you need to be.

I have a 65gal compressor, 220VAC with a 14cfm rating. It takes a beating sometimes. I have a 3 in 1 line adapter and 3 hoses off of that. And have had all 3 hoses going at one time or another.

Find the tools you are going to use, figure out the cfm they require to operate. Then find a compressor that can handle that load plus 20% more.

The thing that will catch you and most folks starting on a lift, is getting the frame and axle separation enough to remove the coils. I use a cherry picker. I can swap coils without removing the tires.

You will need to have jackstands to place along the frame rails, just behind the lower control arm mounts. You lift the rig as high as you can with a floor jack and then place the jackstands. You will then remove the tires, remove the shocks, remove the brakeline bracket, and the speed sensor wire bracket. Lower the jack until the coil unseats. Remove the coil. Most of the time, this is the part that folks get stuck on. The vehicle is not raised high enough to get the coil out. Not to mention re-installing a new, longer coil, or as in your case, a puck.

I have a stick of 5 foot 1.5" .120 wall dom tube I use as a cheater bar if needed. I do not recommend this procedure if you do not understand what I just said.

You will need a small 1/4" allen wrench with about half of the short end cut off. This is what I use to secure the shock shaft on the passenger side. The shock mount is up under the battery box.



On the rear, it is basically the same list. And same procedure.

Air tools will cut your install time in half. A cherry picker will cut it in half again. I just did a lift on a 2 door with the tires still mounted (long story) and did it in a little under 6 hours. If we could have gotten the tires off it could have been done in 4 hours.

The air tools are a convenience. The jack and jack stands are a must. And they must have enough reach to get the separation.

Bob K.
 

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In my opinion air tools are not needed i don't own any air tools and do almost all my own work.

Get yourself one of these tho...

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

For 50 bucks it will make breaking your control arm bolts so much easier. First time i broke them loose i did it with a breaker bar but that electric impact wrench makes life so much easier.

Also check to make sure your jack stands are gonna be tall enough. (not sure what stands you have)

Past that basic hand tools should be enough to get the job done
 

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oh and a torque wrench
 

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Harbor Freight 6 ton stands and their 2 ton jack (that goes up to 23"). I was at around 20" with the 6 ton stands, so I'd go with 12 tons next time so I wouldn't have to extend them high, MetalCloak coils are damn long.

Basic hand tools (10mm to 22mm), 1/2" torque wrench, Harbor Freight electric impact wrench mentioned below.

In my opinion air tools are not needed i don't own any air tools and do almost all my own work.

Get yourself one of these tho...

Electric Impact Wrench - 1/2"

For 50 bucks it will make breaking your control arm bolts so much easier. First time i broke them loose i did it with a breaker bar but that electric impact wrench makes life so much easier.

Also check to make sure your jack stands are gonna be tall enough. (not sure what stands you have)

Past that basic hand tools should be enough to get the job done
Like Beagle said, control arm bolts (and track bars) need to be broken loose first to use the HF wrench. Even though it's rated up to 230 ft lbs it can't break 125 ft lbs. Note: thread by hand first, I manage to fubar the hell out of one of the rear upper shock bolts. Had to go buy a tap.

Don't forget safety glasses. I had my prescription glasses on but still ended with a piece of metal in my eye, had to go to the optometrist to get it removed.
 

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I just swapped my springs last weekend. You'll need an 18mm socket and box wrench for the lower shock and sway bar link bolts. 10mm socket for the brake lines.
 

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one precaution is watch your front drive line boot when you lower the front axle so it does not get damaged on the exhaust. I take the extra 10 minutes and undo the front drive live via the 4 15mm bolts. If you watch the teraflex install video they recommend this as does aev. Most don't but it works for me.
 

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one precaution is watch your front drive line boot when you lower the front axle so it does not get damaged on the exhaust. I take the extra 10 minutes and undo the front drive live via the 4 15mm bolts. If you watch the teraflex install video they recommend this as does aev. Most don't but it works for me.
With an automatic and 3.8L, my issue was the drive shaft hanging on the skid bar.
 

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HF has chaep creepers too :thumb:
There's a pickle right there... Creepers are great when installing lift... Not needed after!! :drinks:
 
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