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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When deciding on the best lift kit, I'm left with some burning questions. Should you want adjustable sway bars or adjustable ca's? With ca's, do you want all 8 or can you get by with just lowers or uppers? And when a kit has the same inch rating, what is the benefit of going with the long arm version? 08 stock sahara 4dr UL, looking to wheel it a couple times a month this summer, and still use it as a daily driver. P.S. And yes I know the BEST would be to do all the above, but its tax season.....nuff said.
 

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When deciding on the best lift kit, I'm left with some burning questions. Should you want adjustable sway bars or adjustable ca's? With ca's, do you want all 8 or can you get by with just lowers or uppers? And when a kit has the same inch rating, what is the benefit of going with the long arm version? 08 stock sahara 4dr UL, looking to wheel it a couple times a month this summer, and still use it as a daily driver. P.S. And yes I know the BEST would be to do all the above, but its tax season.....nuff said.
You'll want adjustable ca's to set the proper caster on your Jeep, usually ONLY if you install a lift of 3" or more. Most 2.5" lifts – which will let you run 35" tires – don't need them. If you have a 2.5" lift and you decide you DO need ca's, generally a pair of front lowers is enough.

Sway bars themselves aren't adjustable. Most kits come with aftermarket swaybar links that will allow you to disconnect the swaybar for increases articulation when off roading.

Did you mean adjustable trackbars, perhaps. Like the adj ca's, usually only necessary on larger lifts, to center your Jeep's axle.

As for long arm kits, those are for larger lifts, usually 4 inches and up. That's generally too much lift for a JK, IMO, unless you plan on running 37-40" tires. Which will cost you a ridiculous amount of $$. You're better off going with a normal lift to maintain your Jeep's stability for road handling.

If you're only gonna wheel a couple times a month in the summer, I'd stick with something like the TeraFlex or Rock Krawler 2.5" lift.
 

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I have a 4.5 inch long arm. it drives great on road and its awsome offroad. I went this way because I knew 37's were in the future. 35's right know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, trac bar is what I meant wolf. My concerns are with my intended lift (rock krawler mid arm 3.5) I'm thinking I need trac bars and at least adjustable lowers ft and rr to keep her stable on the road. I'm starting with 35's and see how it works and looks. Just getting some feed back on the necessities is good
 

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Yes, trac bar is what I meant wolf. My concerns are with my intended lift (rock krawler mid arm 3.5) I'm thinking I need trac bars and at least adjustable lowers ft and rr to keep her stable on the road. I'm starting with 35's and see how it works and looks. Just getting some feed back on the necessities is good
Gotcha. Yes, you need both adjustable tb's and ca's.

Here's an article from Rock Krawler that deals with a mid-arm to long-arm conversion, but gives you some info on what's necessary for their mid-arm kit.

Rock Krawler Aluminum PRO Long-Arm Jeep JK Suspension: Off-Road.com
 

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This is the kit I'd recommend. Comes with everything you should need, including ca's, tb's, brake line relocation, etc.

There are some cheaper ones that leave a few items out, but if it were me, I'd rather do it right one time. If you decide to go with this, write down the mfr part # and check prices with other vendors, as well as contacting the WF vendors to see what they can do for you...you'll quite likely get the best price, and possibly free shipping, from the peeps here on the forum.

Rock Krawler Suspension RKJK35XF - Rock Krawler X Factor Mid Arm 3.5" System for 07-12 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Here's a link I found that talks about the install and a field-test of the RK 3.5" mid-arm lift.

Rock Krawler Jeep JK Wrangler 3.5 inch Mid Arm Flex & Bilstein 7100 - PRODUCT REVIEW
 

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I guess it all depends on what you want out of your lift.

I've been running the Old Man Emu 2.5" lift with HD springs for the past 4 years with zero problems. Clears 35" tires and handles great.
Everything but the springs and Shocks in my suspension remained stock.

After wheeling for a while I added extended sway bar disconnects, +6" stainless brake lines and 2" Old Man Emu bump stops for better articulation off road. This allows the front axle to droop further and keeps the 35" tires from rubbing the underside of the fenders under full compression when the sway bar is disconnected.

This is Hogs back with my current set up. Flex isn't bad but it could be better.

Compare to my buddys Yoda in the same spot...he has long travel shocks, I don't.



With that said after 4 years and 40,000 miles on my OME 2.5" lift I'm now ordering adjustable front and rear JKS track bars Terraflex lower front control arms and Old Man Emu Long Travel shocks from Northridge.
This is to achieve even more flex than I have now without lifting my jeep any higher and keep my suspension geometry in spec and safe for highway speeds.

Long story short you don't NEED adjustable bars under 3" of lift or new controls arms. You will however get better flex with them and it gives you the ability to upgrade to a long travel kit of higher lift in the future.
If you disconnect your sway bars you will need extended brake lines and bumpstops for safety even on stock size tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
uh just found out that you need to cut and reweld mount brackets for a long arm kit.....i might want to just stick with the standard 3.5 flex for now. not sure i want to jump right into the deep end quite yet.
 

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Yes, trac bar is what I meant wolf. My concerns are with my intended lift (rock krawler mid arm 3.5) I'm thinking I need trac bars and at least adjustable lowers ft and rr to keep her stable on the road. I'm starting with 35's and see how it works and looks. Just getting some feed back on the necessities is good
Here is another review of the RK 3.5" Mid-Arm system. A little RockKrawler 3.5" long term review. I think it is a realistic review based upon my experience with the kit that I'm running (http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/catalog/index.php?r_itemID=364). I hope it helps you out.

The review mentions frequent oiling for the RK suspension to keep it quiet, but that is not an issue anymore. RK has new joints on their control arms that are easier to service. They recommend checking the joints every 3-5 years for servicing. If they need lubrication, do it at that time.
 

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I own a 2011 jeep rubicon and want major flex. I am thinking about 4.5" from rubicon express or rock krawler. Is that going to give me what I need? I think it will but will it look good. What gears do I need, I think that I have 4.11 gears that are oem but I am not sure. I need some input on this I want to do it right once and have no problems. I know that the drive shafts are a must. Will the factory lockers and shafts hold up with 35's?
 

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I own a 2011 jeep rubicon and want major flex. I am thinking about 4.5" from rubicon express or rock krawler. Is that going to give me what I need? I think it will but will it look good. What gears do I need, I think that I have 4.11 gears that are oem but I am not sure. I need some input on this I want to do it right once and have no problems. I know that the drive shafts are a must. Will the factory lockers and shafts hold up with 35's?
4.5? Are you kidding? Go 6, or go home!

And forget the driveshafts...you're in axle territory.
 

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I own a 2011 jeep rubicon and want major flex. I am thinking about 4.5" from rubicon express or rock krawler. Is that going to give me what I need? I think it will but will it look good. What gears do I need, I think that I have 4.11 gears that are oem but I am not sure. I need some input on this I want to do it right once and have no problems. I know that the drive shafts are a must. Will the factory lockers and shafts hold up with 35's?
I don't know if RE has fixed the problems that they were having with bushings. I'd stay away from them unless they are fixed. RK doesn't have a 4.5" lift. You can get a 3.5" or a 5.5" lift and either will give you crazy flex, especially if you get the 3-link setup. There isn't a reason to go with a 5.5" lift if you only plan on running 35" tires. I have RK's 3.5" lift and I can run 37" tires with that lift. I have 35" tires on it now. You can run 35" tires on RK's 2.5" lift, so you don't need a big lift on a JK.

Your Rubicon has 4.10 gears stock and you will probably have to regear. Try it first to see if you can live with the 4.10 gears. Many people with the 3.8 motor have changed their gears to 5.13 or 5.38 to run larger tires.

You shouldn't need to replace your driveshafts unless you lift 4" or more or you have a 2-door.

The factory lockers will still work with the new gears, but depending on how hard you wheel, you may need to reinforce your front axle to support the larger tires.
 
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