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Discussion Starter #21
So here's the update, it's been like a month long odyssey of nonsense. Luckily my Jeep is not my daily driver and it's just been sitting in the garage.

This was the most frustrating job by far I have done my TJ, but it was because the engine was so dirty. I made another thread about not being able to get the lifters back in.

So first, I tried magnets. First a 3 pound, then an 8 pound then finally a 20 pound. The 20 pound was a millimeter too thick so that's when I moved on to other tools. If you want to replace your lifters in a 2.5 I suggest against using magnets. I spent hours of my life trying to work these stuck lifters up and down with magnets. So dumb.

Also, the little claw arm tool for lifters that is basically the same thing as a drain snake is a piece of crap too. Don't waste your money.

The thing that did work ( sorta) was a lifter puller tool. However this was also a serious pain in the ass too, because it required a wrench be stuck down in there at same time to tighten on a lifter. I've seen a lifter puller that spreads you push a plunger, if you can get that one, do it.

So finally, after weeks, I got all the lifters out and started celebrating, I thought the hard work was done. My lifters had a thick layer of varnish on then so I wanted to replace them all, hence this thread. Unfortunately, my celebration was premature.

This is when I made the thread where I couldn't get the lifter in. Nothing was working. Ordered a USB camera from eBay so I could get a good look.... It wouldn't work with my tablet without another special cord I had to buy from eBay. Another week waiting and $25 later, the camera was of such low quality you couldn't make anything out. Waste of time and money.

Read about other people on other engines where the lifter wouldn't fit back in, and they recommended using a brake hone to edge out the lip. Guy at Napa suggested the same thing. Bought napa brake hone, but the way out is constructed makes it useless in the Jeep engine. Where the lifter bore is and how you need to get to it is only fixed by one solution, the thing that helped me: a flex hone.

I used a 22mm flex hone meant for Chevy lifter bores, and honed out a couple of the bores that really gnarly. I put MMO and 5w30 on the hone and did it for a couple seconds. Then I used cotton rag on a stick down in the bore clean them out. Then I tested, if it still wouldn't fit I honed some more.

So when I made so they were all twisting freely in the bore, I ordered all new rocker arms and caps, installed everything, and yesterday i did the break in period for 20 mins at 2k tons when you first start the engine with new lifters.

After 20 mins, i took my foot off the gas and let it idle.... And it is wonderfully silent. No more ticking. It took forever and too many new tools, but it sounds amazing compared to what it did before I undertook this job. I'll post pics of my old lifters later....
 

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For one or more sticky lifters yes but if the cam end of lifter is badly worn away your cam lobe is also. Badly worn


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Most of the time you aren't replacing the the lifters because of cam wear. You replace them most of the time because the hydraulic lifters are sticking.

I would also vote for the FSM recomendation. Of course, I assume you inspected the the lifters to make sure there was no excessive wear, galling, or spalling on the wear surface. Right ?
 

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Read about other people on other engines where the lifter wouldn't fit back in, and they recommended using a brake hone to edge out the lip. Guy at Napa suggested the same thing. Bought napa brake hone, but the way out is constructed makes it useless in the Jeep engine. Where the lifter bore is and how you need to get to it is only fixed by one solution, the thing that helped me: a flex hone.

I used a 22mm flex hone meant for Chevy lifter bores, and honed out a couple of the bores that really gnarly. I put MMO and 5w30 on the hone and did it for a couple seconds. Then I used cotton rag on a stick down in the bore clean them out. Then I tested, if it still wouldn't fit I honed some more.
When you honed the bores, where did the junk you honed off go? This doesn't sound like a good ideal to me. All that junk falling into the engine!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Most of the time you aren't replacing the the lifters because of cam wear. You replace them most of the time because the hydraulic lifters are sticking.

I would also vote for the FSM recomendation. Of course, I assume you inspected the the lifters to make sure there was no excessive wear, galling, or spalling on the wear surface. Right ?
i did inspect them, with a digital micrometer, and there was no concave wear. some of the lifters did have taken off the edge, i assume from when they were stuck in the bore and the camshaft nailed them, so i assume there are little metal bits that made it through my engine at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
When you honed the bores, where did the junk you honed off go? This doesn't sound like a good ideal to me. All that junk falling into the engine!!!!!
well thats why you dip the flex hone in oil/mmo mixture so it sticks to the flex hone. saw some of it on the flex hone and i removed a bunch with rag on a stick like i mentioned. its not like i was grinding away for minutes at a time with an angle grinder, it was a 600 grit tool meant for this exact purpose.

and if i didnt do this, the other option was to remove the head and have it machined, which hardly seems economical. if this blows up my engine, ill get a spare for $500 and put it in.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. The reason I'm replacing lifters is that my engine is ticking badly and trying to figure it out. So here's the deal, it looks like before I bought this Jeep a year ago, the "mechanic" that sold it to me did the lifters, maybe the cam. I seem to remember that in the ad, but he said a lot of stuff in the ad.....

Anyway, last night I got 4 lifters out. All were gummed up, and to even get those 4 out I had to put the cover back on and heat up the engine, then use an 8lb magnet tool to push them up and down till they broke free. The other 4 are still pretty stick in there. How can I get them out?? Thinking of putting some solvent in there.

The 4 I got out were all brand new looking with no wear, but varnished on the bottom. Should I clean and reuse them or just go with the new ones?

And can I clean out my lifter bore with a brush while the engine is all assembled? Or should I just drop in new lifters and hope they don't varnish? How can I safely clean the bore hole?
For the stuck lifers Kroil and a little heat from a heat gun is your friend. Once you get them out inspect them, if they look good sometimes disassembling and cleaning them works. Or soak them in Berrymans B12, and work them with a push rod. Make sure the lifters are convex, and not collapsed, coat them with assembly lube and put it back together. Just make sure they go back to the exact location they were removed from. If a lifter is bad you'll know. If they were just loaded up with junk, you might get lucky. You can clean the bores with a bottle brush and a good strong solvent, be careful not to mar the cam, and be certain to change the oil and filter when you're done.

I'm old school, if I'm replacing lifters I replace the cam. Cleaning and disassembly is a job for a person who is not in a hurry, and doesn't mind the possibility of doing a job twice. Good luck.
 

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So here's the update, it's been like a month long odyssey of nonsense. Luckily my Jeep is not my daily driver and it's just been sitting in the garage.

This was the most frustrating job by far I have done my TJ, but it was because the engine was so dirty. I made another thread about not being able to get the lifters back in.

So first, I tried magnets. First a 3 pound, then an 8 pound then finally a 20 pound. The 20 pound was a millimeter too thick so that's when I moved on to other tools. If you want to replace your lifters in a 2.5 I suggest against using magnets. I spent hours of my life trying to work these stuck lifters up and down with magnets. So dumb.

Also, the little claw arm tool for lifters that is basically the same thing as a drain snake is a piece of crap too. Don't waste your money.

The thing that did work ( sorta) was a lifter puller tool. However this was also a serious pain in the ass too, because it required a wrench be stuck down in there at same time to tighten on a lifter. I've seen a lifter puller that spreads you push a plunger, if you can get that one, do it.

So finally, after weeks, I got all the lifters out and started celebrating, I thought the hard work was done. My lifters had a thick layer of varnish on then so I wanted to replace them all, hence this thread. Unfortunately, my celebration was premature.

This is when I made the thread where I couldn't get the lifter in. Nothing was working. Ordered a USB camera from eBay so I could get a good look.... It wouldn't work with my tablet without another special cord I had to buy from eBay. Another week waiting and $25 later, the camera was of such low quality you couldn't make anything out. Waste of time and money.

Read about other people on other engines where the lifter wouldn't fit back in, and they recommended using a brake hone to edge out the lip. Guy at Napa suggested the same thing. Bought napa brake hone, but the way out is constructed makes it useless in the Jeep engine. Where the lifter bore is and how you need to get to it is only fixed by one solution, the thing that helped me: a flex hone.

I used a 22mm flex hone meant for Chevy lifter bores, and honed out a couple of the bores that really gnarly. I put MMO and 5w30 on the hone and did it for a couple seconds. Then I used cotton rag on a stick down in the bore clean them out. Then I tested, if it still wouldn't fit I honed some more.

So when I made so they were all twisting freely in the bore, I ordered all new rocker arms and caps, installed everything, and yesterday i did the break in period for 20 mins at 2k tons when you first start the engine with new lifters.

After 20 mins, i took my foot off the gas and let it idle.... And it is wonderfully silent. No more ticking. It took forever and too many new tools, but it sounds amazing compared to what it did before I undertook this job. I'll post pics of my old lifters later....
For sticky lifter tick, use seafoam engine treatment before you start taking things apart. It really works. Sometimes cheap fixes ain't stoopid.
 

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For sticky lifter tick, use seafoam engine treatment before you start taking things apart. It really works. Sometimes cheap fixes ain't stoopid.
Welcome to the Forum, from Cave Creek AZ.
You are responding to a 2017 Thread..FYI
 
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