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Discussion Starter #1
Just installed 1.5" Spidertrax wheel spacers today. Removed clips, cleaned surface, used loctite, and torqued all lugs to 95 ft lbs. Instructions say to check spacers and torque after first 100 plus miles. How often should I, or do you guys check your spacers after that? Thanks
 

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Logical thing is to check them when you rotate the tires, if you rotate yourself. Last time I checked mine I think they had around 6k miles and hadn't budged, wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Logical thing is to check them when you rotate the tires, if you rotate yourself. Last time I checked mine I think they had around 6k miles and hadn't budged, wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.
Might as well rotate myself, if you are going to pull the tires off to check spacers anyway. Thanks
 

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wouldnt expect them to between the loctite and proper torquing.
Indeed, this is what Henkel says about removing red Loctite:

When disassembling red threadlocker the process is a little different than for other threadlockers. The key is to apply localized heat greater than 550° F. Then, once the threaded assembly is hot, the bolt can be unthreaded. Without applying heat to the assembly, it’s likely that over time, a bolt would break before coming loose.
Before reading that, I was a bit concerned that re-torquing the spacer lugs might break loose the red Loctite, but now I'm not so sure.

On the other hand, with some effort I was able to remove the bolts holding the front seats to the floor with a regular old 3/8 ratchet, and I've been told those are installed with red Loctite (I didn't notice).
 

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I check mine at tire rotation.
Although I torque mine a little more than yours, then set my wrench 5 pounds short when I check them. That way I know they're tight but I'm not breaking the loctite.
 

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For me, every 5k when I rotate my tires. It’s 1 extra step when I do it but I’ll take the added insurance. On a side note, torqued to 95lbs and hasn’t moved since install after a year.
 

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Every wheel removal. After a run in a particularly muddy area, I'm pulling all the wheels anyways, so they all get re-torqued. I also swap to street tires if the next offroad run isn't for 3 or more weeks, so do it with the swap to streets and swap back to offroads. And yes, I'm rotating every time. If I'm only pulling wheels on one axle, I'll swap the tires side to side on that axle or with the spare.
 

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I checked mine at 100 miles and a couple had come a tiny bit loose so I retorqued them. Checked again at my last tire rotation which was about 1000 miles or so and it was all well and good. I torque mine a bit more than 95 pounds though. I think it was recommended at 100 - 105 but not sure as it's been a while. I plan on checking every tire rotation which I do around every oil change.
 

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I'm not too familiar with blue locktite. I put them on my spacers as well. If I double check the torque and happen to turn it 1/8 -1/4 turn, did I just ruin the entire lock-tite, or will the blue locktite fight the nut the entire length of the stud?
 

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I'm not too familiar with blue locktite. I put them on my spacers as well. If I double check the torque and happen to turn it 1/8 -1/4 turn, did I just ruin the entire lock-tite, or will the blue locktite fight the nut the entire length of the stud?
All Loctite threadlocker products are a liquid in the presence of oxygen. They harden to a solid plastic when the parts are assembled and the oxygen goes away. They aren't reusable, so if you've turned it at all, you've probably broken that plastic.

Blue is meant to be removable with hand tools. Red is meant to be permanent. I would only use red on wheel spacers. The few wheel spacers I've bought over the years always come with a small bottle of red Loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I checked mine at 100 miles and a couple had come a tiny bit loose so I retorqued them. Checked again at my last tire rotation which was about 1000 miles or so and it was all well and good. I torque mine a bit more than 95 pounds though. I think it was recommended at 100 - 105 but not sure as it's been a while. I plan on checking every tire rotation which I do around every oil change.
I was recommended 110 and 105. But the instructions that came direct from Spidertrax said 90. So I met in the middle at 95
 

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All Loctite threadlocker products are a liquid in the presence of oxygen. They harden to a solid plastic when the parts are assembled and the oxygen goes away. They aren't reusable, so if you've turned it at all, you've probably broken that plastic.

Blue is meant to be removable with hand tools. Red is meant to be permanent. I would only use red on wheel spacers. The few wheel spacers I've bought over the years always come with a small bottle of red Loctite.
Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
 

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To answer the above question....for me, I use no locktite. But as mentioned, I've got the wheels off a lot more than "normal" people. I pull the wheels and use my air sprayer to clean the mud from brake components, so it's very easy to get the torque wrench in there to be sure they're still tight.
 

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Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
For me the deciding factor was that many spacers include a bottle of red.

I'm a little skeptical of the necessity of the heat thing I quoted earlier. I've broken loose red loctite, probably most of us here have. It's on the bolts that hold your front seats down. It isn't easy but on strong hardware like that, the loctite certainly isn't stronger than the hardware itself.

As for the risks of applying heat, I don't know about the aluminum of the spacer itself but things like lugs would shrug off 550F. Back when I was racing, on the back straightaway at Sebring I could roast the 1200F stripe of heat-sensitive paint on my calipers -- lap after lap, all day long.

But honestly I suspect a breaker bar is all it takes.

As for the safety of spacers, I ran them for 10 years on a Ram that weighed nearly 8000 lbs and sometimes towed a 28' enclosed car trailer. I'd switch between big Mickey Thompson Baja MTs and Toyo E towing tires regularly. Never once touched the spacers. The shop who ordered them along with my wheels said they're install-and-forget and I guess I just trusted them on that.
 

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Hmm... Wheel spacers scare me to begin with... Should I replace the blue with red? I thought most use blue... I'd hate to have to torch the lug to remove it, not sure what that would do to an aluminum spacer? Probably nothing....

What do others run with spacers? Blue or Red?
You are right about your concerns.

I'm don't want to steer up another heated discussion about wheel adapters, but red-loctite and material fatigue are 2x key issues here that the average Joe just does not understand and as a result ignores.
 

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I run TeraFlex 1.25" spacers. I like my oem wheels to stay inside the flares.

I used Red Loctite and on initial install I torqued to 100 ft lbs. I check every tire rotation (3-5k) but I use 90 ft lbs. This way I'm less likely to break the loctite, and at 90 they should still click immediately, which they always have.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was nervous myself about running spacers, but all ive read is that if you dont go cheap, get hub-centric, torque properly on install, and check routinely (after first 100 miles, 500-1000 miles, then every tire rotation, you will be fine.
 

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I was nervous myself about running spacers, but all ive read is that if you dont go cheap, get hub-centric, torque properly on install, and check routinely (after first 100 miles, 500-1000 miles, then every tire rotation, you will be fine.
Early spacers were just that, spacers. They effectively shortened the lug nuts and were very dangerous. New hub centric ones are safe to use when properly installed.
 
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