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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am lifting my 92 YJ with a 4 inch lift. I need to put some tires and wheels on it. I was looking at steel wheels. I am wanting to put on some 33 and I was thinking of the Cooper MT tire. If I recall it is called the discovery. I don't know much about the tires and rems. I use the jeep mostly for hunting and taking it on some jeep trails. What is a good brand of steel wheel to purchase. I was wanting a 15 x12.5. I surly would like to keep this under $1200. I need 5 wheels and tires.
 

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12.5 wide wheels? Most 33" tires are 12.5, you would want your rims to be narrower. 15x8 is perfect for 33x12.5x15 tires, the widest I would go is 10" on a rim. A narrow rim gives you a tighter grip on the tire bead so you can air down if needed without popping a bead.
 

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+1 - you want 15x8

I personally like to reduce my rolling weight. Goodyear MTRs are typically the lightest tire - do some research before buying. Also reduces stress from having a heavier spare hanging off the back.

You should also look at the Pro Comp 7069 alloy wheels - you can get them for $100 each. That's more than black steelies, but they weigh about 10lbs less. And they have perfect offset.

If you want black steelies, then I think JEGS is very competitive on price. Free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Which wheels are stronger Steel or alloys. I do like the lightness of the alloys wheels but I want a strong wheel.
 

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Don't quote me on this. But I'm pretty sure the strength difference would be negligible. With steel wheels if you bash them on a rock they might bend some. I know aluminium wheels can break if you hit a rock just right. So I would think an alloy would be between the two.

If it were me I would go alloy. The places I wheel don't have much rocks and the weight difference would be nice. Hopefully some others chime in
 

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For the differance in weight alone i'd go alloy, I've had aluminum for over 20 years with no problem, strength is not that critical unless you're pounding the rim on rocks. That's why a narrower rim will give you more sidewall to grab rocks rather than using the lip of the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For the differance in weight alone i'd go alloy, I've had aluminum for over 20 years with no problem, strength is not that critical unless you're pounding the rim on rocks. That's why a narrower rim will give you more sidewall to grab rocks rather than using the lip of the wheel.
Thanks that sound good. The brakes on my 92 are not that good even thought I replaced the entire brake system. Less weight seems to be a better way to go. Where I hunt the roads are very steep and long. I think I will go with the alloy wheels
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Back on the tire subject. One thing that I am concern about is the weight of the tires. I have an automatic transmission and I am concern about the power. I have a 6 cylinder. Would a person be better off by saving some weight to go with the 32 instead of the 33. I am also a little concern about the size of the tire around the fender well.
 

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I'm running 35's with my 4.0 but I have the 5 speed. If your engine is running strong 33's should not be an issue. As far as clearance, that depends on how you use it. Normally to fit 33's and go off road you'll be looking for 4" of lift. Could be 1" body, 1" shackle, and 2" spring or just 4" spring lift. If it's a street machine you may get away with just a body and shackle lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Its a 4.5 lift and there shackles on it but I am not sure how long. I have 31 tires on there right now and a friend told me that 33 will only be 1 inch more in diameter. If so there should enough of clearance.
 

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I got a great deal on my black rock wheels through jeep4x4center.com aka morris4x4center.com
 

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With your 4.5" of lift (maybe a little more with the unknown shackles) you should clear 33's fine. I have a RC 4" lift with 33's. The front has some room to flex, but the rear rubs the flare pretty good. If you crawl on rocks or need lots of room to flex I would keep your current setup or invest in fenders with 33's

If you limit your width and keep the tires inside the flares you should be pretty well off. My profile pic shows that the front has room, but the rear is STUFFED.
 

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The stock gears with the auto and 33's will be a bit slower, but still okay for street and mild trails...it will not win a race. 4.11's with 33s and the auto is a good combo, but that add's more $$$ to the project. Also at that point you should think about a new rear axle, but that is a conversation for another day... in the mean time, go easy on the gas when off road to keep the rear dana 35 alive with the bigger tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The stock gears with the auto and 33's will be a bit slower, but still okay for street and mild trails...it will not win a race. 4.11's with 33s and the auto is a good combo, but that add's more $$$ to the project. Also at that point you should think about a new rear axle, but that is a conversation for another day... in the mean time, go easy on the gas when off road to keep the rear dana 35 alive with the bigger tires.

I really don't know what rear gear ration I have. I do have a automatic. When driving at 65 mph, the RPM reads about 2800 to 2900. Is there any way of telling what gear ration I have in the rear end.

I was told on the tire that a person can get an offset rem a 15x8 with a 33 x 10.50 tire. This would give me plenty of clearance to make my turns with out rubbing and maybe not giving up to much power.

I use the jeep mostly for hunting. It is usually in 4 wheel drive most of the time. Where I hunt it is very steep. I do some trailing from time to time with some friends and a little rock crawling on the trails but my jeep is used mostly for hunting.
 

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2800 to 2900 seems like a high rpm, both my 4.0's with stock axles, 33's on yj and 31's on zj. If I am cruising about 70 I am doing about 2 grand in both, a little less in the yj even

Gearing

I4 Automatic - 3.73:1
I4 Standard - 4.10:1
I6 Automatic - 3.54:1 (normally)
I6 Standard - 3.07:1, 3.54:1 or 3.73:1 - must verify with the tag on the axle or by pulling the differential cover and reading the numbers stamped in the ring gear or by counting revolutions of wheel versus driveshaft.
 

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I just put new wheels and tires on my YJ a few weeks ago. What I got was a set of 5 Rock Ridge D-window, 15x8 w/3.75" backspacing, black steel wheels for $309 (free shipping) and a set of 5 General Grabber AT2 tires for about $850. I went with 31x10.50-15s, but the 33s can be had for not too much more money.

I've got a 2.5L manual with 4.10s and it pulls much better than it did with the 32s that were on it (on some old Eagle alloys).
 

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Yeah my 5 SPD doesn't few quit that high either. My 33's don't seem to hold it back enough to notice much lag. In town it pulls out from 4th from 20 mph to speed w/no jumping. I'd think it would do a little better than it is. Change all fluids. Diffs too. That's what I did and it rolls better down the road. My 3¢
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Does anyone have 33x15x10.50. What I am looking at does the tire stick out enough to protect the body of your jeep, if you are side hilling and very close to the terrain so the tire can keep the jeep's body away from terrain from being damaged.
 

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Does anyone have 33x15x10.50. What I am looking at does the tire stick out enough to protect the body of your jeep, if you are side hilling and very close to the terrain so the tire can keep the jeep's body away from terrain from being damaged.
That's generally what rocker guards are for:

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ya I do have them but with my 2 inch lift and the 31 tires I still scraped my mirror and back of the cab. I really don't want to beat it up to bad. With the 4.5 inch lift I just want to make sure that I am going to make the right purchase on the tires.
 
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