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I am transitioning from a KJ Liberty to a new JL. On the Lib the antenna was mounted on a bracket secured to the inside of the back leg of the roof rack. As the this JL has not roof rack to do the same, I am looking for suggestions and pictures of how you mounted your antenna.

Does the fiberglass roof become a poor ground plane for the antenna? Or does the steel structure of the vehicle still do the job?

Pics, comments, suggestions welcome.

HT

The fiberglass roof isn't a groundplane, a ground plane needs to be some form of metal, like your hood.

I've currently running 5 antennas on my Jeep, yep I'm a Ham Radio idiot. The one that I like the best is in the URL below, I have 3 on my roof rack, and another screwed into the side of the Jeep, yep I drilled a hole in it, however, it's the one that I have mounted on the hood that seems to be the best so far.
The comet allows you to install it at just about any angle, this you to mount it in a manner prevents interference from the metal in the jeep.




Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Car Land vehicle
 

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I can understand 3 ...... HF, 2m, and 70cm. But educate a newby on why you need 5 .?

I am running a VHF/UHF dual-band single at this time


Great question

1 - APRS 2/440
1 - 2/440 for the Yaesu 857
1 - 20 meters for the Yaesu 857
1 - 40 meters for the Yaesu 857
1 - 2/440 for the ICOM ID-5100 - D-Star; for D-Star I carry a dongle that links to my cell phone, using it's data plan, for when a local D-Sart repeater is not reachable around.

The HF antennas used by 857 are on a coax switch, allowing me to switch the antenna I'm using. I also have a bit of PVC pipe with screw caps that have a bulkhead mounted SO-259 connector on each end on the pipe, allows me to carry other antennas, or store the ones mounted when I'm bashing through low hanging branches; normally carry a 10mtr antenna when traveling with my club for CB - They don't see the value of GMRS, or a Tech License, sort of funny, since most people spend thousands of dollars and hundreads of hours on their Jeeps, yet wont spend $70 to get a GMRS, or a few hours to get their Tech License.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, doing Ham Radio in the Jeep is fun, however, the install and power are painful at times.
 

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Just about to take my Technician exam. Fairly simple as I knew most of it anyway from past electronics experience. Already have a GMRS license just for use on trails when required. Looking forward to taking a trip to Moab /Colo Sprs next Spring and thought the GMRS would be good. Have HT for both GMRS and CB, but the CB never gets any usage otherwise.

I wired mine up easily to the aux switch pigtails under the dash. Easy if you only have one radio to deal with, lol.
I've an Extra Class, if I could do it, anyone can, flashcards are you friend. Good luck on your test(s), you can take multiable tests on the same day, so study for your General as well.
Mainly got it so I could do HF, since there's very little VHF/UHF repeater activity here in NM. I just bought my GMRS license, never needed it in the past, however, just about every radio I own has been modded to allow it's usage.
 

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Finished the installation today of my Yaesu FT-7900 dual band mobile ham radio. I ran the power cable by the book (the radio book, not the Jeep manual). Tapped at the battery terminals with fuses on both pos and neg wires right hear the battery.

Taking power directly at the battery helps eliminate issues with the vehicle electronics and provides better grounding.

The wire I used was 12/2 underground rated DC landscape lighting wire. Beefy with very sturdy insulation.

I routed it across the top of the engine bay tucking it between the painted cowl extension the plastic structure right below it.

Passing through the firewall was easy. There is an unused plastic plug on the firewall to the outside of the brake master cyl vacuum booster. I used a long knife to reach in and cut a hole in it and easily fed the wire right through. From there I tucked it behind the "scuffs" at the carpet. It is all concealed until behind the seat belt anchor. From there the wire goes to the radio in the cargo area. (2 Door, back seat removed).

The radio head is mounted on a holder that secures in the cup holder by the hand brake. Clean, convenient, easy installation.

Really happy with the result of the effort.
There's a nice hole in the firewall if you take off the side passenger dash cover. YouTube should have a video of it
 

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I have many wires going through both sides. - Very convenient.
I have all my extra wires going to the rear of the jeep into a electrical junction box, (6x4x3 I think), then they feed out to things like lights, radios, and what not. EVERYTHING has an Anderson connector on it, I call it my "Fire Hazard". - It's all fused and the relays I need live in it as well.
 

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I'm glad people are having success with that installed wiring. I don't have it (that I can find). And I don't have the 4 Aux switches. And from the manual, the (sometimes) supplied wire bundle did not seem to include a fused ground. "By the book" both the pos and neg leads are fused at the battery. Supposedly in an automotive application the added radio is protected against a starter motor failure that can back current into the chassis ground. So I was told. So I just stick to the book. Also not looking a a circuit diagram I would not be sure where the factory aux wire feeds from and the gauge of the wire for the whole pathway, and whether it is switched adequately. I run my radio circuit fused but unswitched. I just have to remember to turn the radio off when I leave.

But also I think maybe a lot of these ideas date back to both earlier radios and earlier autos.

I had the parts and the heavy wire, so I just installed it instead of digging into the details of what the factory may have supplied. Other methods employed probably work just fine too.

Happy Trails
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I'm not sure the AUX wire can handle the AMPS a radio normally needs when Transmitting. As for why I used the Battery, its the reason I ALWAYS use both Positive and Negative to power my gear. I want to be able to use my radio when the jeep is off, I don't want to have the jeep running. Before everyone runs to the assumption that the radio will kill the battery, check the specs on your radio, look at what the Receive Power usage is, normally it's VERY low, and an hour or so wont kill your battery. A decent radio also has a Auto Power Off, X amount of time with no traffic, it powers itself off.
 

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Is that for the JL also?
I'm pretty sure, it's SUPER easy to pop off the side panels, there will be a bit of resistance, and you may feel like you're going to break something, however, if you remove them from the front, AWAY from the firewall, towards the seat, they will come out without damage. Take your time, and use a tool that wont mare the cover.
 

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There is a 40 amp circuit contained in the AUX wiring. Unless you have some sort of unique radio I highly doubt that you're going to pull more than that. My ICOM 2730 pulls 13 amps at TX with 50 watts output. WTH radio are you using that would compromise a 40 amp circuit???

The AUX switches are configurable to allow for either ignition off or on ... which ever you prefer.

So neither of those are a concern as you suggested.
From what I've seen on the AUX wiring, the wire size leads me to believe it won't handle even 15 AMPS safely. - Just because you don't blow a fuse doesn't mean it's safe.

 

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Yeah, I bet the folks at the factory just put whatever wire in there without worrying about whether it would burn to the ground or not. :rolleyes: My radio is on one of the 40 amp circuits and I have a pair of KC LEDs on one of the 15 amp circuits. I'm not worried in the least about it.

The manufacture never intended anyone use use a high current device in the AUX circuit. But hey, you be you, wire it however, you want.
 

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Please tell me where you got that information about the manufacturer. I'd love to read it. It may make me change my mind. Where is that information?

FWIW ...... The factory install has 12 awg on the 40A circuits, and 16 awg on the 15A circuits. Not certain about the wire on the "add-on" switch packages.
Please take a look on what the specs are for a 40AMP circuit. 12 awg isn't going to cut it. But hey, like I said, you be you, and enjoy the fire hazard you create.
 
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