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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i have installed my posion spyder bombshell diff covers and am looking to get at least an aftermarket rear track bar. I dont even think my rear track bar is rubbing but its crazy close and i figure why not. I need a track bar i KNOW is gonna clear the cover. And am questioning if i need to do both or just one. I dont plan on going any bigger than 2" really. I have a BB currently. I was putting some serious thought to the rock krawler track bars one bc rk is awesome and two because they are an hour away and i can just go pick it up instead of setting up camp on the lawn waiting for the ups man lmao whats the consensus gents?
 

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Ok so i have installed my posion spyder bombshell diff covers and am looking to get at least an aftermarket rear track bar. I dont even think my rear track bar is rubbing but its crazy close and i figure why not. I need a track bar i KNOW is gonna clear the cover. And am questioning if i need to do both or just one. I dont plan on going any bigger than 2" really. I have a BB currently. I was putting some serious thought to the rock krawler track bars one bc rk is awesome and two because they are an hour away and i can just go pick it up instead of setting up camp on the lawn waiting for the ups man lmao whats the consensus gents?
Hey Gone fishing here just to let you know i have done several lifts on Jks as far as im tracking you dont need new trackbars for anything under 4 in any lift you purchase will supply relocation brackets . Good luck and have fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im not purchasing them for the lift or to really re center the axle like they are really intended for. Its more for diff cover clearance.
 

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Recently upgraded my lift to a Rock Krawler 3.5 with front and rear track bars. Rock Krawler makes some very solid well made parts.
 

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2.5 is enough for the axles to shift. Most kits only supply a bracket for the rear for roll center. Raising the track bar centers the axles as well.

Do you have a bracket ?
If not ... I would think raising the track bar at the axle mount will help clear the diff. I think a adjustable track bar for what you have/need Is overkill,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2.5 is enough for the axles to shift. Most kits only supply a bracket for the rear for roll center. Raising the track bar centers the axles as well.

Do you have a bracket ?
If not ... I would think raising the track bar at the axle mount will help clear the diff. I think a adjustable track bar for what you have/need Is overkill,
Ok so your saying a bracket should solve the issue? I actually looked today and my tires are about a 1/4" - 1/2" off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
3/8 is typical for 2-2.5" of lift. The bracket is helps center the axle and included in most lift kits.
Im thinking it will help you. Most brackets raise the rear TB about 3"
Ok so a rear bracket for the track bar will solve the diff clearance issue and the rear axle alignment. Whats to be done with the front axle though? No clearance issues but it looks a touch off as well
 

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Ok so a rear bracket for the track bar will solve the diff clearance issue and the rear axle alignment. Whats to be done with the front axle though? No clearance issues but it looks a touch off as well
Im thinking it will help. Look at where its hitting. Maybe disco and raise 3". See if it will clear

For the front. its up to you, but I would leave it alone if there's no issues.
Your only option would be a adjustable track bar The track bar can't be raised without flipping/dropping the drag link as well. This is not done on lower lifts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Im thinking it will help. Look at where its hitting. Maybe disco and raise 3". See if it will clear

For the front. its up to you, but I would leave it alone if there's no issues.
Your only option would be a adjustable track bar The track bar can't be raised without flipping/dropping the drag link as well. This is not done on lower lifts.
Your saying disconnect the track bar and move it up 3"? And it "may" contact on the inner part of the bend on the drivers side. I say may bc i actually see no signs of rubbing after driving for days and one very small trail run. I just dont want it this crazy close.
 

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Your saying disconnect the track bar and move it up 3"? And it "may" contact on the inner part of the bend on the drivers side. I say may bc i actually see no signs of rubbing after driving for days and one very small trail run. I just dont want it this crazy close.
Here is the rear on mine, not a great pic of the bracket but you can see that it lifts the trackbar up in the rear. The bracket included in the Teraflex long arm kits is bolt on and made for several different lift heights (mine is cut and welded in at the tube side due to the truss). Rubicon express and several other companies make a bolt on bracket to raise the mount at the axle side similarly. Some companies make a drop bracket for the rear on 2.5" and down lifts...this is not the route you would be looking to take. There are also companies (artec) that make a bracket to raise the axle side mount in the front, but as kjeeper said, the front has to be raised in conjunction with a drag link flip, which is typically seen only on 3.5 and larger lifts, to maintain proper steering geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is the rear on mine, not a great pic of the bracket but you can see that it lifts the trackbar up in the rear. The bracket included in the Teraflex long arm kits is bolt on and made for several different lift heights (mine is cut and welded in at the tube side due to the truss). Rubicon express and several other companies make a bolt on bracket to raise the mount at the axle side similarly. Some companies make a drop bracket for the rear on 2.5" and down lifts...this is not the route you would be looking to take. There are also companies (artec) that make a bracket to raise the axle side mount in the front, but as kjeeper said, the front has to be raised in conjunction with a drag link flip, which is typically seen only on 3.5 and larger lifts, to maintain proper steering geometry.
Sweet. Looks like if i go with the RE one i shouldnt have any issues. You guys dont thing itll over correct though right? I dont have that much lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Off the top of your head would you know what bracket would yield me that much?
I'll be honest with you, the only reason I'm not a fan of the re bracket is because its a pita to install.
Here is the Tera part
http://www.teraflex.biz/products/axles?component=367&vehicle_type=299
Here is the re
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Lift-...ks.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=R/ERE7123

Look at the bracket re1607 pictured with the lift, the picture on file on the website for re1607 is wrong and it is the same bracket used on the 2.5" re lift.

I know, it looks easier, but the bolt for the tb has to be run from the rear of the bracket on the re, which means it has to be shimmied through the coil spring, which means the coil spring has to be un loaded, which means you have to lift the jeep from the frame then start wrestling with the track bar to align the bolt, it's no problem on a shop lift but could be nightmarish on the ground.

If you skip running it through the back and decide to run it through the front, the nut will start notching your rear driver coil spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'll be honest with you, the only reason I'm not a fan of the re bracket is because its a pita to install.
Here is the Tera part
http://www.teraflex.biz/products/axles?component=367&vehicle_type=299
Here is the re
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/3-5-Inch-Super-Flex-Short-Arm-Lift-Kit-No-Shocks.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=38&t_pt=3533&t_pn=R%2fERE7123

Look at the bracket re1607 pictured with the lift, the picture on file on the website for re1607 is wrong and it is the same bracket used on the 2.5" re lift.

I know, it looks easier, but the bolt for the tb has to be run from the rear of the bracket on the re, which means it has to be shimmied through the coil spring, which means the coil spring has to be un loaded, which means you have to lift the jeep from the frame then start wrestling with the track bar to align the bolt, it's no problem on a shop lift but could be nightmarish on the ground.

If you skip running it through the back and decide to run it through the front, the nut will start notching your rear driver coil spring.
Wound up speaking to multiple parties (poison spyder, northridge 4x4, and teraflex) and wound up going for teraflexs 2 position track bar bracket. They all said it should not only raise the track bar up away from the diff cover but also reduce the roll center to enhance the jeeps handling. Oh and i got some Jks disconnects cuz i just could resist lol gonna see how it works out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Sweet. Youve got a 3" lift though lmao
Honesty, I thought this one was 2"-4" having the two holes.
I'm at 3.5" total and my rear is slightly over corrected/top hole without the track bar.

Wondering now what the difference is with the 2 brackets and the 2nd hole up :confused:

Anyways .... Roll centers match front and back. I know AEV runs a tower and really raises the TB. I believe it's ok to run the rear roll center higher than the front,
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Honesty, I thought this one was 2"-4" having the two holes.
I'm at 3.5" total and my rear is slightly over corrected/top hole without the track bar.

Wondering now what the difference is with the 2 brackets and the 2nd hole up :confused:

Anyways .... Roll centers match front and back. I know AEV runs a tower and really raises the TB. I believe it's ok to run the rear roll center higher than the front,
Yea i was told by teraflex the 2 hole one is for 2-3" rigs. And wait if your at 3.5" and over corrected wouldnt that mean mine is gonna be wayyyy over corrected? Now im confused lol
 
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