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Discussion Starter #1
To put the driver's side plugs UNDER the intake? Holy shit what a PITA

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All in, it took me about 4 hours. Including the 45 mins for the passenger side, lunch, and doing it twice after I forgot to put the insulating foam back on. 馃ぃ
 

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I have a few tips for you- when I did it the first time, the rear bracket by the brake booster cost me about 2 hours. Then I decided I didn't like the new plugs, so I changed them a second time. I decided to use my dremel and make slots in the bracket, and that saved me big time!
 

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Then last week I had to change my oil pressure sensor, below the lower intake. So then I also put slots in the front bracket by the throttle body (save the 5 extra minutes of removal). Much better. Now I can change my plugs in less than a half hour.
 

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I have a few tips for you- when I did it the first time, the rear bracket by the brake booster cost me about 2 hours. Then I decided I didn't like the new plugs, so I changed them a second time. I decided to use my dremel and make slots in the bracket, and that saved me big time!
Thats not a bad idea. I didnt have much of an issue getting it around that bracket after I loosened the wire tie on the main harness on the passenger side. With that loose, I could wiggle the plenum to that side and get the bolts away from the brackets on the opposing side.
 

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I don't remember a wire tie over there. There's a big wire loom (overkill) bracket over there, and those plastic zip holders. Please just don't do what I did, cost me BIGGG time- MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU ANCHOR THE DRIVERS SIDE WIRNG HARNESS AWAY FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE. I forgot to reinstall it and a month later I needed a new PCM, and a TPS, total around $1800 including 2 towing bills and 2 dealers.

Make sure of this right now! Your steering knuckle will rub through your main harness if you don't.
 

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I don't remember a wire tie over there. There's a big wire loom (overkill) bracket over there, and those plastic zip holders. Please just don't do what I did, cost me BIGGG time- MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU ANCHOR THE DRIVERS SIDE WIRNG HARNESS AWAY FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE. I forgot to reinstall it and a month later I needed a new PCM, and a TPS, total around $1800 including 2 towing bills and 2 dealers.

Make sure of this right now! Your steering knuckle will rub through your main harness if you don't.
All great tips.
What鈥檚 your opinion on changing coil packs while in there for plugs.

consensus seems to not worry about them unless cracked/throwing codes.

thoughts?
 

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Then last week I had to change my oil pressure sensor, below the lower intake. So then I also put slots in the front bracket by the throttle body (save the 5 extra minutes of removal). Much better. Now I can change my plugs in less than a half hour.
Since I haven't needed to change plugs yet could you do a couple of pictures of exactly where you cut those slots. Might make for a good sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All great tips.
What鈥檚 your opinion on changing coil packs while in there for plugs.

consensus seems to not worry about them unless cracked/throwing codes.

thoughts?
At ~118k miles mine were perfectly fine. Still malleable, not cracked and popped right on/off. Probably not to worry about. I did hit them with a bit of dielectric grease for the next time
 

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The slots are pretty easy to figure out. I did the back one while it was still on the jeep, and the front one is optional, just saves taking out the 2 extra bolts. Ill try and get some photos. R4D4R said he just tipped it out, but I was nervous about breaking the plastic intake plenum, those bolts are molded into it. They really should have slotted those as OEM...
I wouldn't worry about the coils, once you've figured out the upper intake removal, you are all set. Don't touch them until you need to, and when it throws codes you will know which one(s) to change. But when you do them, probably change the short spark plug wire/boot too.
 

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You can see the bracket in R4D4R's photo above. Its 4" left of the brake booster, right below the red firewall bracket that holds the silver AC lines.
 

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Nothing compares to Subaru spark plugs change.
I'm part way into an oil cooler assembly change, and I just removed the upper intake manifold. I think it took me a little over an hour. I could change plugs in my old Subarus (2.0 and 2.5 flat 4) in about 15 minutes, but I guess there is a learning curve to everything.
 

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OK, next up, remove the coil wires and then the fuel rails(after relieving the fuel pressure from the "tire" valve). You don't have to remove the fuel line itself, or the or the loop in the back. Just move the left side rail over to the right side (<?>) after you remove the bolts.
When you pull off the rails, be careful of the O-rings in the top and bottom of the injectors, don't lose them. Also, try and clean/vacuum the area around the injectors. Mine had a lot of the plastic wire loom that had cracked off.

(Note: inlines are always easier to work on than v blocks. Also, after you've done this once you will figure out ways to improve it yourself.)
 

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OK, next up, remove the coil wires and then the fuel rails(after relieving the fuel pressure from the "tire" valve).
Why are the fuel rails being removed?
 

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But you don't have to. Just unplug the electrical connectors to the coils and injectors to get the wiring out of the way.
 

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Well, then my apologies, maybe I did something that I didn't need to. Just cant remember how to pull the lower piece out with the rails right there. Sorry.
 

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The fuel rails stay with the lower intake manifold. If you want, you don't even have to de-pressureize the fuel system to do the oil cooler, just leave the fuel line connected and carefully move the lower intake out of the way.
 

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Wow, sounds much easier that way. I should say I was following a post on here about using the Magnusen supercharger instructions, so I may have taken it a step too far. Sounds like you've got it pretty figured out. How did you find out your oil cooler was going bad? I guess I should have cleaned mine while I was in there. Also, who puts an oil cooler in the middle of the engine?
 

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All great tips.
What鈥檚 your opinion on changing coil packs while in there for plugs.

consensus seems to not worry about them unless cracked/throwing codes.

thoughts?
I have not done the coil packs but I have done the boots each time on both of our Jeeps.
 
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