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Discussion Starter #1
Okay here's my question why do I need to put control arms on my Jeep, currently have A 2.5 Teraflex spring lift that I upgraded to 3 inch teraflex springs 3.5 - 5 inch Bilstein 5100 shocks JKS sway bar disconnects adjustable front track bar and aev control arm brackets. So I guess my question is my Jeep drives great and from what I can tell has as much flex as I could possibly get without going to a different setup don't have any drivability issues what would be the point of upgrading the control arms other than adjustability which at this point I don't need.
 

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Without controll arms won't you eventually rip your driveshaft out of something? I'm pretty sure your control arms prevent forward and back movement or at least keep the movement in a nice arc. Nobody needs control arms.i would upgrade to leaf springs <snicker>
 

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Without controll arms won't you eventually rip your driveshaft out of something? I'm pretty sure your control arms prevent forward and back movement or at least keep the movement in a nice arc. Nobody needs control arms.i would upgrade to leaf springs <snicker>
Okay you read into the title the same way I did initially. :doh: The OP is asking whether or not he needs to upgrade, not get rid of the control arms. GD. Is it too early to start drinking? :drinks:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay you read into the title the same way I did initially. :doh: The OP is asking whether or not he needs to upgrade, not get rid of the control arms. GD. Is it too early to start drinking? :drinks:
Yes obviously I meant upgrade I probably should have put that in there lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something I'm not opposed to getting new control arms they look cool and all but I'm just not really sure I see the point especially considering I can get all of the free factory control arms I want practically brand new if I wear them out.
 

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When you lift your Jeep the axles move inward decreasing your wheel base. It also changes the Jeeps caster. If you're OK with those changes then you don't need control arms or relocation brackets.
In my experience people convince themselves it's all OK... until they drive a Jeep that has been corrected. Then they wonder why they waited so long to correct theirs.

Here's an example of a local friend that we've wheeled and worked on Jeeps together. He just added the Rancho CA brackets to correct the caster on his.

I am kicking myself that I didn't add the Rancho brackets sooner! The Jeep has been lifted since it had 320 miles on it so I never knew how it was supposed to feel, it's got almost 37K on it now.

Those brackets would be worth it at 3 times the price. I was thinking about changing to dual rate springs and a softer, D rated tire. I don't have to now, the ride is that good.

Will be able to report on their off-road performance after this weekend but the on road feel is worth adding the brackets to your lift.
But again, if you're happy with yours there is no need to add CAs or relo brackets.
Good luck :thumb:
 

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I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something I'm not opposed to getting new control arms they look cool and all but I'm just not really sure I see the point especially considering I can get all of the free factory control arms I want practically brand new if I wear them out.
There's a sticky in the tech forum, Beginners Guide To Lifting Your Jeep (too lazy to link it). Go read the first part of that. A lot of good information. When you start talking about aftermarket control arms, you get to adjust your lengths and angles like k said. There's a good diagram in there, but essentially, when you add height in the form of a lift, you displace the axle from it's original location. Your stock arms are meant for stock height, stock wheels, etc. When you add height and displace the axle (however slight) you change the caster and pinion angles. Now that might be fine. You may not have any problems. BUT, that CAN lead to some serious problems down the road if you're not so fortunate. With the aftermarket arms, you typically get to correct those angles by adjusting the arm length. Doing so allows you to return the axle to center and fix your angles. IMO, get the arms. I know TF offers both adjustable and non (preset for certain lift heights) and there are plenty of other options out there. I think you're better off investing the money now for some added security than forking it all over later when something breaks. Check out that thread i mentioned, they're far more knowledgeable than I am. YMMV
 

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When you lift your Jeep the axles move inward decreasing your wheel base. It also changes the Jeeps caster. If you're OK with those changes then you don't need control arms or relocation brackets.
In my experience people convince themselves it's all OK... until they drive a Jeep that has been corrected. Then they wonder why they waited so long to correct theirs.

Here's an example of a local friend that we've wheeled and worked on Jeeps together. He just added the Rancho CA brackets to correct the caster on his.



But again, if you're happy with yours there is no need to add CAs or relo brackets.
Good luck :thumb:
OP has the AEV brackets...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes I have the AEV correction brackets up front so I am good there and really the handling is on par with a stock Jeep. And think I have a pretty good understanding of what's going on I'm just trying to figure out if there is something I'm missing that I should be looking at spending $1,000 on control arms.
 

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Yes I have the AEV correction brackets up front so I am good there and really the handling is on par with a stock Jeep. And think I have a pretty good understanding of what's going on I'm just trying to figure out if there is something I'm missing that I should be looking at spending $1,000 on control arms.
You would gain 3 things by going with adjustable control arms, and they may not necessarily come into play depending on your Jeeps alignment numbers...

1. Caster adjustability (fine-tuning caster) - brackets correct for that a fixed amount, adj. arms allow that to be fine-tuned...if your caster is already good, and you don't plan to go vertical anymore than you already are, then don't let this factor alone lead you to getting the arms.

2. Clearance. If you need extra clearance, you can get high clearance adj. LCA's that will allow more ground clearance. You lose some with the brackets. Again, if clearance is a non-issue, why mess with it.

3. Wheelbase adjustment. With adj. CA's you can recenter your wheels in the wheel-well as your lift height increases. If this is not important to you, then it's not worth it (especially if you're not presently having any issues).

So, as I said, none of that may be a concern to you...so do what YOU want to do with it.

P.S.

Man...your rig looks sharp. And LOVE the half-doors!!!
 

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AEV uses stock arms on their 4.5" lifts so no they are not necessary. I will however say the geo brackets cost some ground clearance so if that bothers you then you really need some longer arms to correct your caster up front. In the rear the taller you go the less centered your rear tires are so if going 37's etc longer rear control arms not only push the wheel back but will correct pinion angle.

you might want to slap some bump stops in there as well. Also track bar looks backwards but maybe it is just the angle.
 

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Have the caster checked. If it's within range, and you're happy with how it steers, do nothing. I can say, I saw a dramatic change in the steering, handling and drivability when I installed longer lower control arms. You wouldn't think a half inch or so pushing each axle back to position would even be noticeable, but it is when you compare before and after.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
AEV uses stock arms on their 4.5" lifts so no they are not necessary. I will however say the geo brackets cost some ground clearance so if that bothers you then you really need some longer arms to correct your caster up front. In the rear the taller you go the less centered your rear tires are so if going 37's etc longer rear control arms not only push the wheel back but will correct pinion angle.

you might want to slap some bump stops in there as well. Also track bar looks backwards but maybe it is just the angle.
I do have the Teraflex bumpstop extensions in the front and rear blocks I believe there 2.5 if I recall, so I'm thinking the only thing I really need to do is rear control arms to center the rear axle so that it will be centered up when I go to 37s. That being said what I need to do uppers and lowers or just lower rear control arms?
 

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I do have the Teraflex bumpstop extensions in the front and rear blocks I believe there 2.5 if I recall, so I'm thinking the only thing I really need to do is rear control arms to center the rear axle so that it will be centered up when I go to 37s. That being said what I need to do uppers and lowers or just lower rear control arms?
Both, one set (lowers) will rotate the pinion down.
You want to rotate it up and move the axle back.
 
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