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Will a Tune up Help?

2097 Views 23 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  DPGDirk
Hey guys, I have a 97 4.0 and my commute to school has a lot of hills and the jeep feels a little sluggish. I Also have a 4” lift and 32” wheels, I know its a jeep and its not meant to go fast but I’m wondering if I can make it run a little better. I was thinking about getting a new Mopar Distributor cap and rotor from rock auto and also New NGK wires and Autolight XP plugs. Is there anything else I should look at to replace to boost Some performance? I currently dont have enough money for a full regear and I’m pretty sure both diffs are stock (Dana 30/35). If I do save enough for a re gear, what ratio Should I go for?
Thanks
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New clean air filter is a good thing


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If you dont know when the last tune up was done as least pull the plugs and see what they look like. I, personally would do a full tune up just so you have a baseline.
Your TJ's lack of power is due to the 32" tires. Larger tires are harder to turn since their bigger radius gives the tire more leverage against the engine.

The answer is not cheap and new tuneup will not boost power unless your present spark plugs are so bad it's even idling roughly. The fix is either smaller tires or regear your axles. Don't waste your $$$ on anything like a throttle body spacer, CAI, E-2 spark plugs, etc. as NONE of those will improve performance.
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Hard to say with bigger tires and not knowing your axle gearing (differentials). A tune up shouldn't hurt if you don't knpw when the last was accomplished either.
I'm guessing your gears are 3.73s or 3.55 maybe?
Your TJ's lack of power is due to the 32" tires. Larger tires are harder to turn since their bigger radius gives the tire more leverage against the engine.

The answer is not cheap and new tuneup will not boost power unless your present spark plugs are so bad it's even idling roughly. The fix is either smaller tires or regear your axles. Don't waste your $$$ on anything like a throttle body spacer, CAI, E-2 spark plugs, etc. as NONE of those will improve performance.
I'll do some research on a re gear, ill do a tune up on my ignition system as it looks a little rough but i'll start saving for a regear. What ratio to you suggest for a 32" tire? Do you recommend any brands or any I should stay away from? Thanks
2 shot NO2 system should help.....Maybe you should put the stock tires back on
I'll do some research on a re gear, ill do a tune up on my ignition system as it looks a little rough but i'll start saving for a regear. What ratio to you suggest for a 32" tire? Do you recommend any brands or any I should stay away from? Thanks
4 10 is fine for 32's but if you think 33's could possibly be in your future I'd go with 4.56. Nearly any gear brand is fine but Revolution Gear and Axle has become the leader in gear quality. I installed a set of their 5.38 gears several years ago.
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2 shot NO2 system should help.....Maybe you should put the stock tires back on
Honestly wonder if my engine could Handle NO2, Ha
4 10 is fine for 32's but if you think 33's could possibly be in your future I'd go with 4.56. Nearly any gear brand is fine but Revolution Gear and Axle has become the leader in gear quality. I installed a set of their 5.38 gears several years ago.
Ok sounds good, thanks for the help. I think my school is gonna close again because of COVID so that works out. The process doesn't seem too bad, It will be a fun learning experience!
Ok sounds good, thanks for the help. I think my school is gonna close again because of COVID so that works out. The process doesn't seem too bad, It will be a fun learning experience!
I gotta give you a heads up, regearing is a LOT harder and far more challenging that most would assume or guess. And if the end result is not perfect, the new gears will be ruined in short order.

This is from my last regearing when I installed new gears when I had a friend who guided the process with me mostly being done as told lol. I had read about the process in several good writeups ahead of time but the writeups came nowhere near justifying the complexities and difficulties of getting the end result perfect enough....


However you end up getting them installed, MAKE SURE to only use a CONVENTIONAL (!!!) gear lube to refill the axles with for use during the break-in and after changing the gear lube at the 500 mile mark too. New aftermarket gears run too hot when lubricated with a synthetic gear lube. Factory gears only survive a synthetic gear lube because they are pre-lapped before they were installed and no setup process is required. Revolution Gear, Superior Axle, Dynatrac, etc. all specify a conventional gear lube. Some push synthetic gear lubes no matter what but it's a crap shoot on new aftermarket gears, I don't recommend taking the chance.
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FWIW... Champion/MOPAR Spark Plugs . Period .. Dist. Cap won't hurt.. Plug Wires - I would go back with Factory.. they have lasted this long so why switch brands.
X2 on what Jerry said. I run 33’s on my 99 TJ and regeared from 3.73’s to 4.56’s. Made a huge difference offroad, although I didn’t buy the TJ to run 75mph. For me, 60-maybe 65 mph is enough, but the power difference was quite noticeable. Listen to people like Jerry. Don’t try doing this yourself unless you do it for a living. I paid about $1500 for my regear but that was before the Covid gouging that we’re seeing now across the board. Good luck.


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I gotta give you a heads up, regearing is a LOT harder and far more challenging that most would assume or guess. And if the end result is not perfect, the new gears will be ruined in short order.

This is from my last regearing when I installed new gears when I had a friend who guided the process with me mostly being done as told lol. I had read about the process in several good writeups ahead of time but the writeups came nowhere near justifying the complexities and difficulties of getting the end result perfect enough....


However you end up getting them installed, MAKE SURE to only use a CONVENTIONAL (!!!) gear lube to refill the axles with for use during the break-in and after changing the gear lube at the 500 mile mark too. New aftermarket gears run too hot when lubricated with a synthetic gear lube. Factory gears only survive a synthetic gear lube because they are pre-lapped before they were installed and no setup process is required. Revolution Gear, Superior Axle, Dynatrac, etc. all specify a conventional gear lube. Some push synthetic gear lubes no matter what but it's a crap shoot on new aftermarket gears, I don't recommend taking the chance.
Jerry,
I'm having my 307s in 00 4.0 auto on 31s regeared to 411s May 3rd. (As you know, I plow with this rig.) They're saying to do a 500 mi break-in Before using 4WD at all. I only drive it maybe a couple hundred mi in a year! How strict should I be in following this break-in period before next winter? Thanx, Tim

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Jerry,
I'm having my 307s in 00 4.0 auto on 31s regeared to 411s May 3rd. (As you know, I plow with this rig.) They're saying to do a 500 mi break-in Before using 4WD at all. I only drive it maybe a couple hundred mi in a year! How strict should I be in following this break-in period before next winter? Thanx, Tim
Doing the break-in properly with a gear lube change at 500 miles is critical to the gears having a long happy life. I dunno what I'd do in your situation, I'd for sure run nothing but a conventional GL-5 gear lube like an 85W-120 or close until they're well broken in.

OR go with Revolution Gear's REM gears that came out a year or so ago that don't really require as much of a traditional break-in process. REM Surface Finishing | Revolution Gear & Axle

Give Ricky a call at www.4lowparts.com and ask him about RGA's REM gears. Or call Revolution Gear & Axle directly and ask for Brook, he will give you solid advice.
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Been running 3.07 gears with 33's in my 2000 3speed for the past 3 years since purchase. I know I would get a lot out of a regear but the last quote I got was for $2,100 (Tampa, FL from a highly recommended diff shop).

For me, that is too much for a 20 year old vehicle with 180k miles on it. The forums have scared me from attempting it myself (plus I have nowhere to work in my current apartment). So, I'm okay with it. I've gotten used to it.

It does not have the pickup of some other cars I've owned but I can cruise at 65-70 on the highway fairly easily.
I gotta give you a heads up, regearing is a LOT harder and far more challenging that most would assume or guess. And if the end result is not perfect, the new gears will be ruined in short order.

This is from my last regearing when I installed new gears when I had a friend who guided the process with me mostly being done as told lol. I had read about the process in several good writeups ahead of time but the writeups came nowhere near justifying the complexities and difficulties of getting the end result perfect enough....


However you end up getting them installed, MAKE SURE to only use a CONVENTIONAL (!!!) gear lube to refill the axles with for use during the break-in and after changing the gear lube at the 500 mile mark too. New aftermarket gears run too hot when lubricated with a synthetic gear lube. Factory gears only survive a synthetic gear lube because they are pre-lapped before they were installed and no setup process is required. Revolution Gear, Superior Axle, Dynatrac, etc. all specify a conventional gear lube. Some push synthetic gear lubes no matter what but it's a crap shoot on new aftermarket gears, I don't recommend taking the chance.
I’m good friends with a local mechanic that used to own an off road XJ so I assume he knows how to re gear. Ill call him to see if he can help me. I’ve been looking at a lot of YouTube videos and you are right, it is a pretty precise process. I’m still deciding between 4.11 and 4.56, but I think i’ll stick with 32’s, as I’m not planning on doing extreme rock crawling, but just simple trailers and mild mud. Thanks for all the help
Sounds good, I'd go with 4.56 just to be on the safe side and that you're towing trailers once in a while. Not to mention you'll be hearing the siren song of 33's before too much more time passes.
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Doing the break-in properly with a gear lube change at 500 miles is critical to the gears having a long happy life. I dunno what I'd do in your situation, I'd for sure run nothing but a conventional GL-5 gear lube like an 85W-120 or close until they're well broken in.

OR go with Revolution Gear's REM gears that came out a year or so ago that don't really require as much of a traditional break-in process. REM Surface Finishing | Revolution Gear & Axle

Give Ricky a call at www.4lowparts.com and ask him about RGA's REM gears. Or call Revolution Gear & Axle directly and ask for Brook, he will give you solid advice.
Jerry, thanks much. Will follow up.

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What gear ratio should I get. Ha ha ha - if you ask 20 people you'll get 30 answers, and every one of them is right. I've seen some good fights break out over gear ratios...... just sayin! But I agree. Regear, and look hard at your tires. Pick a size that is available everywhere. When I picked my tires, I had them check Terlingua TX, Ouray CO and Moab UT for tires. If you use an odd size and ruin a tire way out away from the big city, you might sit a week while they send one to you on a Grayhound bus!

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