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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm just wondering...How easy/difficult is it to replace a leaking

Cowl seal where the windshield folds down at the hood on a 92 YJ? Also where can I get the proper fitting seal? I have heard there are a couple different sizes and I'm not sure which one is the correct one. Thanks in advance! ✌. :beerme:
 

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The Original Equipment seal may no longer be available, but it's worth searching Amazon or EBAY for an OE seal.
Many ads will state original equipment "type" or original equipment "style" but not be OE.
The next best bet is read the reviews on Amazon for a stock "style" seal. I don't think EBAY is as strict about bogus reviews as Amazon.
Price is only one factor in determining quality. Other posters here can probably recommend a seal that'll fit properly.

I replaced mine when I replaced my windshield frame, but that was so long ago that the market has changed quite a bit.

Begin now by soaking your hinge pins with your favorite penetrating oil
When you go to undo your roll bar struts from your windshield frame, make certain to use the proper sized torx bit and a hand held impact driver.
The factory puts thread locker (Loctite) on all torx head bolts. If you use a too small torx bit you'll strip the teeth in the bolt head. The shock and twisting motion of the hand held impact driver breaks the bond of the thread locker.
Harbor Freight has a hand held impact driver for under $10.00.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great! I appreciate the advice �� Thanks for the help! I'll check it out ��
 

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The third party ones from Quadratec, et al. Mostly seem to not fit quite as well as OEM, but they work. I think Mopar still makes an OEM seal, but I can’t find the link to it at the moment. Perhaps someone else can share it. If I remember, it’s about $37-40 vs. $15 or so for third party. Not too bad of a difference of it ensures proper fit, in my opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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The new seal will be thicker than the old one.
Effort must be made to get the windshield back where it was.
If the windshield does not return to its previous 'rake' then it pulls the soft top forward. When the soft top is more 'forward' the door uppers won't close properly.

To lower the windshield it must be detached from the spreader bars on each side.
There are three places where the spreader bars can be detached.

1) At the windshield, two short screws. A ratchet strap will be needed to get the screws to bite.

2) A sliding tamper proof T-50 at the top rear of the spreader (in front of the roll bar).
If your doors close correctly now, leave this one alone, playing with it will cause grief.

3) A five inch T-50 thru the roll bar into the back of the spreader.
This is what I use, The five inch length allows you to get a bite and dial the windshield back into the position necessary.

You have to unzip the roll bar padding to see these torx bolts.
 

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It is super easy. The only thing to know is that it will be thick. You will need to put some effort into getting the windshield lined back up. I had to use two ratchet straps to pull it into place. Wrap one end around the roll cage then I used a 2x4 and c clamps on the windshield frame so I didnt bend or break it.
 
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It is super easy. The only thing to know is that it will be thick. You will need to put some effort into getting the windshield lined back up. I had to use two ratchet straps to pull it into place. Wrap one end around the roll cage then I used a 2x4 and c clamps on the windshield frame so I didnt bend or break it.
I think Raoul has a post a couple or few years ago showing how to do it with a couple ratchet straps and a 2X4.
That's how I did mine way back when.

I like the idea of #3 idea he posted in his above thread. I haven't tried it but it seems simple and should return the windshield frame back to it's original position without any fiddling around.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
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