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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be installing SPDT switches for lighting on my new-to-me 2014 JK Sport. I'm wiring them all for an On-Off-Auto setup. On is rather self explanatory, the switch is fed by constant 12v. Auto would depend on the light' function. For the exterior lights, the switch would get power from the high beams, parking lights, reverse lights, etc. For example, the A-Pillar spot lights can be switched on manually, switched off manually, or follow the high beams.

What I'm looking for is a list of what wires to tap into under the dash for the following:

+12 high beams
+12 low beams
+12 parking lights
+12 reverse lights
+12 ignition and constant I will pull directly from the fuse panel.

These will all be driving relays, so switching current only. I'm guessing at least the high beams will need a capacitor to smooth out the PWM. Do the parking and reverse lights have PWM on them as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It does. It is missing the high beam though.
 

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I'd like to say first off that the factory electrical is all controlled through the ECU. Any added load on any one circuit may shut the system down. The only safe way to power up accessories is with relays which draw very little power to trigger direct battery power.

For the Highbeam I tapped into the Highbeam power behind the headlight. The same can be done for the lowbeam and clearance/fender light.

Pulling power from under the dash will not give you the result you expect. All wires go back to the computer before they go to all the factory lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was hoping to tap into the high, low, and parking wires that go to the lights from inside. Rather than doubling back tapping in out at the grill.
 

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Unfortunately it's not that easy as it was in the old days. The CANBUS makes it a pain to do any accessory wiring. Even changing the headlights or fogs to LED with out the proper resistor harness sets off alarms.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know, I'm familiar with the module based CANBUS and PWM stuff. What I do not know is where the module is that controls the lighting. I'm merely assuming it is inside under the dash. The same wire that is at the headlight should therefore be inside somewhere as well. Less wires to fish through the firewall if I can tap into it from inside rather than outside. If the module is under the hood, obviously that becomes impossible and might as well get it at the lights.

I'll be putting capacitors on the relay coil circuits to smooth the PWM.
 
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