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I got my Cibies and SMS direct-to-battery harness, so my headlights are squared away (just deciding on bulbs). Now I'm turning my attention to fog lights and driving/offroad lights.

I plan on doing the Pilot fog light mod with a dedicated switch and yellow Hella bulbs. So that's squared away as well.

What I'm looking into now is mounting a pair of spread pattern driving lights on the hoop of my bumper. I'd like to wire them in so that they come on BOTH with my high beams AND independently via a switch inside the Jeep. That way I can use the lights as needed, with or without the high beams.

How do I go about doing that? Will I need two relays, or can I wire the high beam trigger and the switch to a single relay?
 

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I have this idea in my head too, but I was going to have the aux lights come on with high beams only.

I haven't thought about it enough to come up with a full plan. Would like to hear other input.
 

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The easiest way I can think, is a relay system like I have in my Jeeps. On the energizer side I have it hooked up to the high beam (white with brown). All I would have to do is also run a wire to the same relay connector with another 12v line with a switch on it and put on a diode to prevent the switched power to power the highbeams on the highbeam tap. The relay don't care where the 12v comes from. Contacts 85/86 are the electromagnet circuit that when energized throws the 87/30 switch that supplies the power to the lights. The whole concept of using relays is that you can use a low current source to control (switch) a higher current circuit. There has been some discussion that the power going to the headlights is pulsed and that it causes some issues because the 85/86 is pulsing with the power source. I have not seen this with my setup. An easy way of telling is that the relay would "chatter" (clicking on and off).


AFTER REVIEW!!! You will need a diode on the tap from the highbeams to prevent supplying them power from switch line Drawing and text corrected.



 

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Willy,
In that configuration, wouldn't the aux lights come on with the high beams, no matter the switch position?

I want to be able to turn the aux lights off, even with high beams on. I thought about running the tap from the HB through the switch, to terminal 85.

I already have the Rally Lights wiring harness with relays, so I would just tap the HB off that harness to my aux light relay.
 

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If you put a second switch on the 30 terminal, you could use it like a master kill switch and the switch on the 85 terminal as a toggle for when you want the aux lights on without the highbeams. I can't think of an easier way than that..
 

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Your making it to hard, somewhere I saw somebody used the old style high beam foot switch hooked up on one of those dead pedals. Easy peasy. Just hit it whith your foot when you want them on.
 

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Your making it to hard, somewhere I saw somebody used the old style high beam foot switch hooked up on one of those dead pedals. Easy peasy. Just hit it whith your foot when you want them on.
Having to track down an old foot switch and buy/install a dead pedal doesn't sound that easy.. I already have my aux light wired to a two way switch on the dash that does the same thing as what the foot switch would do but either way you're talking about not being able to control the high beams and the aux lights at the same time. I think that a little extra effort to install the 3 way switch would be worth it in the long run.
 

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Or You can spend less than ten bucks on eBay for the set up I suggested and have $50 left over to spend on the lights your going to wire up.. Not to mention that foot switch wouldn't look to good after the first time you get in your Jeep with muddy boots on.. But if you already have the dead pedal and want something different than a traditional switch, it's an interesting idea. We had those on the floorboards in the HMMWVS we used when I was in the military and they did work pretty good seeing as it kept your hands on the steering wheel.
 

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Hi folks resurrecting this post. The diode you have suggested. Does that get soldered on the wire from the positive wire from the headlight to the relay. And is this to prevent flickering due to the pulse to the light

Cheers
Al
 

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Hi folks resurrecting this post. The diode you have suggested. Does that get soldered on the wire from the positive wire from the headlight to the relay. And is this to prevent flickering due to the pulse to the light Cheers Al
The diode goes in between the headlight tap and the incoming switch power to the relay trigger. Its purpose is to keep the switched power from back feeding up the headlight wire and running the headlight off the switch unintentionally. Nothing to do with flicker, has to do with not overloading the switch as well as not turning on the headlights when not wanted
 

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This is what I used for daytime running lights that would also work with my High beams.
key on - LED lights on
low beam on - LED lights off
high beam on and switch on - LED lights on
high beam on and switch off - LED off
 

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So can I ask how the diagram would look if I just want to have the high beams turn on LED lights. The extent you guys have gone to allow you all the options is great..For me Just flicking the high beams and having the led lights bar also light up would be fantastic.

Currently I have a relay and an on and off switch. I'm thinking that I should able to just take the power and the ground from the on and off switch and tap them into the high beam. But it seems like many say I will run into problems with the canbus or power management and thats where I'm getting confused on what to do..

Cheers
Al
2014 JKUS
 
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