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Hey there,

I'm looking to add a pair of window mound lights relatively soon. Not wanting to be short-sighted, I'm trying to figure out what to do about wiring them up. I can easily use the included harness and be done with it, but I would like a solution that would keep me from duplicating efforts down the line.

I'll first start by saying the sPod is not an option. I don't like the mounting position of the switches, and I feel like there are better options out there as far as do it yourself. I'm just trying to figure out which of those do it yourself options is best for my situation.

I plan on using the Rugged Ridge A-Pillar switch which has 4 switch locations. One will be for the window mount lights. Another MAY BE designated for emergency lights (Career/Volunteer FF--I rarely run them, but would rather have them hard wired then plugged into the 12v outlet). As for the other two, I'm not certain what they would be used for as I don't plan on going much further than mild with my JKUR.

My initial thought is to use one of the Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Blocks. However after researching on the site, it looks like I need something with relays. In which case, my limited understanding leads me to believe the Painless Performance 7 Circuit Relay will do the trick. Unless I need one relay for per circuit, meaning that I would need to build something like this DBox.

Please let me know what your thoughts or input on this subject is!
 

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Look at D&R Electronics. They have a light controller called the Protec 1350 I use that to control my emergency lights and my off road lights. It is much cheaper than an sPod. I mounted the control module to the Rugged Ridge A-pillar pod. The main box is located under my front passenger seat.

The Protec 1300 has a siren built in if you need that for your application. The master emerg switch activates all my warning lights and I can also activate them individually if I wish.
 

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There is a lot of great DIY wiring info on this forum for cheaper options, not using the spod and adding fuse blocks.

12 volt electricity is fairly simple. Everything needs a hot wire and a wire grounded to the body. When using a relay, just think of it as another switch. You use your a-pillar switch to turn the relay on or off. The relay is a switch for the actual power from the battery used to power your lights.

I used the add a circuit fuse add on from the parts store to run 12 volts to my a-pillar switch with 18 gauge wire, then another 18 gauge wire back to the switch terminal of the relay. I found a bolt on the inside of the dash to tie the ground terminal on my switches to. This will complete the circuit to activate the relay.

I mounted my relay close to the fuse box and battery under the hood to help eliminate voltage drop and running larger wire a long way. One terminal on the relay will be for 12 volt power from the battery, this wire needs to be fused. One terminal on the relay will be for the ground, just ground to a bolt on the Jeep. The last terminal will be power out of the relay to the lights, which will only be hot when the relay is activated by the switch. Or, if you have a double throw relay you could have two terminal, one for each light.

Each light will also need to be grounded. My lights were marked positive and negative on the relative wires, but most 12 volt stuff isn't polarity sensitive, so positive and negative won't matter, you just need to complete the circuit.

You can find wiring sizing charts, but if using LED lights, anything from 14 gauge to 10 gauge should be sufficient for the amperage they will pull. If using anything else, I'd go with a least a 12 gauge.

I can't figure out how to link to the threads I got my information from, but they were on this forum. There's is a great, simple schematic on how to wire a relay that I used.

I hope this helps. Feel free to PM me for pics or any more help.
 
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