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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So history, wrangler ran fine all day, never had an issue ever with it starting, parked it, went inside for 10 minutes came back out went to start it and it won't crank. For reference it's a 6 speed, 2006 4.0
Here is what I checked:
- Battery- 12.35V sleeping, 12.25V with fans on high, high beams, radio and "cranking" so I know the battery is good
- 30A Starter fuse checks 0.0 Ω
- Starter relay swapped with horn relay, no dice, horn works though
- Ignition fuse checks 0.0 Ω
- Fuel pump primes in "run" so ignition sequence is working also means ECU is not fried.
- Tried it in neutral so it's not the clutch interlock or neutral switch

The ignition pin 'shouldn't' be the culprit only because when I turn the key to "start" I hear the ECU click and the gas gauge and parking brake light goes off so it's sensing that I'm trying to start it.

The only possibility I can think is that somehow the wire to the starter solenoid broke in the matter of the 10 minute drive that I did home or the starter solenoid is shot. Both of these highly unlikely considering it has never shown an issue and bad starters usually act up first a bit as the solenoids usually will intermittently work.

Ideas?
 

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I have an auto so maybe I'm wrong, but the neutral safety switch is in the clutch peddle not the stick or shift assembly so putting it in neutral wouldn't eliminate a faulty sensor.
 

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How you measure cranking voltage if it will not crank?

Try a 12 volt positive to small terminal on solenoid see if that makes it crank

Being in neutral does NOT bypass clutch interlock so you better rethink
That one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cranking voltage as in turning the key to "start" soin other words when it should be cranking but currently isn't. As for the clutch interlock switch, you're right, but having it in neutral will permit you to start it without pressing the clutch (which I do frequently) as for your idea of applying power to the switched side of the starter relay, that's a good idea and will do that tomorrow!
 

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Could be the clutch interlock switch not sensing that the clutch is pushed in. Jumper the two wires together, if it starts then its the clutch switch. If it doesn't then try crossing a screwdriver across the two large terminals on the starter if it cranks then its the solenoid. If it doesn't then its the starter.
 

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Apply power to the control small terminal on the solenoid on the starter if that makes it crank neither the starter or main cables to starter or battery are the problem

Cranking voltage is voltage when starter is spinning not just key on start position

Unless you do the fuse bypass as shown in owners manual the clutch interrupt is operative and if that is faulty putting it in neutral won't solve the issue

Most likely you have a broken actuator pin in the ignition switch but first do the wire to solenoid small terminal test with key on and tranny in neutral and park brake set all for your own safety
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So it ended up being a broken ignition actuator pin. I narrowed it down by checking for voltage on the coil side of where the starter relay goes and when the key is in start there was no power there. I find it odd still because even when the original was broken it still went into the start sequence because the blower motor shut off, and so did the normal dash lights that shut off.
But oh well, just figured I would post back with my findings!
 
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