Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been reading the forums the past few months trying to soak up all the info that I can. I believe I have a pretty good list of what I want to do on my 2008 JK RHD, 3.8 automatic. I bought this new in '08, and have used it to deliver mail until last fall. Now I'm retired, and feel it's time to make some changes. Jeep has 137,000 mi., I run a Flashpaq performance 91 tune, Teraflex Monster front track bar, and Teraflex steering stabilizer, B&M trans cooler, everything else is stock with the exception of trimmed factory flares. I expect it to be driven on road 95% and light off road use the other 5%.

Here is my list so far:
AEV Dualsport XT 2.5, (the RHD version comes with swaybar links instead of a rear track bar).
Rancho Control Arm Drop Brackets
American Racing AR23 15x8 wheels
Cooper STT 35x12.50R15LT tires
Detroit Truetrac differentials, (Dana 30 & 44).
Motive Gear 5:13 ring & pinion w/master kits, (Rebel Offroad sells this as a complete kit).
Nitro rear axle kit
RCV Ultimate CV front axles
Synergy ball joints
Crown tie rod & drag link ends
Adams 1310 CV driveshafts
Smittybilt SRC Gen 2 rear bumper w/tire carrier
Smittybilt SRC front bumper, (not Gen 2)
Smittybilt XRC 9500 lb. or Smittybilt X20-10 winch w/synthetic rope, also looking at a Warn VR8000 SR winch

The axles and driveshafts are probably overkill for what I will be using the Jeep for, but I will feel better knowing that I have them over the stock, (worn), parts.
I would like to install a Synergy tie rod and drag link, but these will not work with 15" wheels. I am certain the Crown replacement ends will work just fine.
I am also looking at a Rock Krawler HD tie rod that requires the stock type ends.
Anyone know if there is much difference in quality of the Synergy ball joints and ball joints from Alloy USA ?

I have had the Teraflex SS on it since 2009, I'm sure it's worn by now. Any thoughts on the Bilstein SS over the Teraflex ?

I went by a chart like this to decide on the gear ratio,
Jeep Wrangler JK Gear Ratios

I would like to hear comments, pros, cons, or other recommendations on the parts I plan to install.
Thanks.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
Unless you plan on serious wheeling during that 5%, I would scrap the shafts and just service yours (new u-joints if necessary).

With that much weight going on, you might want to consider a small spacer as well to compensate. Synergy ball joints are a good idea. A lot of people run Alloy USA as well and are happy. If you are going to go with new wheels, just get the 17" now and be done with it. You will need an exhaust spacer if you keep your factory shafts, however, that is more money for other mods. 5.13s are a good idea for sure.

If you would like any pricing on any of your list, shoot me a PM.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Unless you plan on serious wheeling during that 5%, I would scrap the shafts and just service yours (new u-joints if necessary).

With that much weight going on, you might want to consider a small spacer as well to compensate. Synergy ball joints are a good idea. A lot of people run Alloy USA as well and are happy. If you are going to go with new wheels, just get the 17" now and be done with it. You will need an exhaust spacer if you keep your factory shafts, however, that is more money for other mods. 5.13s are a good idea for sure.

If you would like any pricing on any of your list, shoot me a PM.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
I figured it was overkill on the driveshafts, I was not aware of needing exhaust spacers for a 2.5" lift.

I have looked at the 17" wheels, even had them on my list at first, but really like the look of 35's with 15's. Any reason for the 17's other than clearance on the tie rod ends ?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,398 Posts
IMO you're wasting $$ on a D30. Not designed for nor will it hold up long with 5.13s.
IMO look for a D44 take off from a rubi and start from there.
C gussets, sleeves or truss should be added no matter which axle you go with.
Why not go 17s so you can upgrade rotors or brake kit? Then you can use whatever drag link kit/tie rods you want?

Exhaust spacers aren't necessary on the 3.8, that's a 3.6 thing.

IMO


Good luck!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Or just go 4.88. Teeth getting pretty dang small on a D30 with 5.13's, and you'll be happy with 4.88's. AEV 2.5 lift really doesn't need exhaust spacer. I had one on my 2012 2-door and never had a problem with moderate rock crawling/ wheeling with full articulation. I didn't ever get under there and look, but I never had any reason (sound) to suspect my driveshaft was making contact with exhaust. They are pretty cheap insurance though...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I haven't ruled out 17" wheels yet. The AR23's don't come in 17" though. Outlaw II's do.
Trying to stay with the Outlaw I or II or the AR23's if possible. I guess it's more of a nostalgic thing, (I'm 58). Not putting down any of the newer wheels, most look pretty good, just not the look I'm after.

I probably could not tell much difference between the 5:13's & 4:88's. I'm sure I would be good with either one with the 35" tires.
I hadn't thought about a Dana 44 front axle, might be a good choice no matter what ratio I decide. Would be hard to find a used one in my area, I've seen new available for $1500 - $2200 with ball joints installed. Sound about right ?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,398 Posts
Lots of axle choices out there, Teraflex, Dynatrac, etc.
Several companies will install everything you want from Ball Joints to lockers to gears to RCVs. Only difference is (i think) you'll have to fab a track bar bracket since you're RHD.

Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited Package (PROROCK44UNL_PKG)

Maybe they could do that too?
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
I have that axle as well.

Pro Rock 44

For the RHD Dynatrac just leaves the bracket loose in shipping and you can locate it/weld it on.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
I probably could not tell much difference between the 5:13's & 4:88's. I'm sure I would be good with either one with the 35" tires.
I hadn't thought about a Dana 44 front axle, might be a good choice no matter what ratio I decide. Would be hard to find a used one in my area, I've seen new available for $1500 - $2200 with ball joints installed. Sound about right ?
A friend of mine had an '07 Rubicon JKU w/auto when we had our store together. He ran 5.13s with 37s and wished he had gone 5.38s. It was lack luster in the accelleration dept. He dropped down to 35s and was happier about the performance with the 5.13s. Still wanted the 5.38s though. We live in the foothills of Northern CA. So proper gearing is a must. Especially with the poor auto trans gearing prior to 2012.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have that axle as well.

Pro Rock 44

For the RHD Dynatrac just leaves the bracket loose in shipping and you can locate it/weld it on.

I was looking at that one. I like the idea that they leave the bracket off. I believe the only other difference is the SS bracket ???
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
I was looking at that one. I like the idea that they leave the bracket off. I believe the only other difference is the SS bracket ???
The SS bracket is located on the TB bracket mount. What you do on the other end is up to you. Or if you want to do something custom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The RHD SS bracket is located on the left sway bar link bracket. I may have to fabricate a bracket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Looking at the different options for the D44 front axle leads me to ask about the difference of the Rubicon and non Rubicon axles. Dynatrac lists axles for conventional and Rubicon lockers and can be used with Rubicon and non Rubi axles.

Just trying to figure out what one I need to run a Detroit Truetrac and RCV CV axles in one of these.
Hopefully, I am correct in thinking that the CV axles would be much better than the U-Joint type.

Also, there should be no problem moving the SS to the TB mount. Strange that the RHD stabilizer is mounted the way it is.

Somehow, I knew I would be modifying my parts list when I posted this. :)

I appreciate all the recommendations so far, keep 'em coming.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
Rubicon is for the factory Rubicon replacement using the Tru-Loc locker. All others use conventional housing. It is in the machining for the carrier offset. RCV better yes. 3.5" and over lift height get the unlimited (extra caster and better oiling). Over 35" tires get the .5" tubing upgrade.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Rubicon is for the factory Rubicon replacement using the Tru-Loc locker. All others use conventional housing. It is in the machining for the carrier offset. RCV better yes. 3.5" and over lift height get the unlimited (extra caster and better oiling). Over 35" tires get the .5" tubing upgrade.

OK, I think I've got it. I would need, Pro Rock 44 Housing 65.5" width, CVJ44-JK-PROK RCV axles, and a 913A592 Truetrac differential. Plus the gears, of course.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Say I go with 17" wheels, there are no AR23's in that size. My next choice would be the Outlaw II's, but after looking at a picture of them on a 2 door JK, I don't think they are going to look as good as the 15's. Just throws it all off, IMO.

So far, I have found Walker Evans 501 Legend Machined w/Black Accent and Level 8 Strike 5 Black machined in 17".
Anyone run either of these ? If so, thoughts, pros, cons, would be helpful.
Any wheels that are similar, but look better in your opinion ?
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
OK, I think I've got it. I would need, Pro Rock 44 Housing 65.5" width, CVJ44-JK-PROK RCV axles, and a 913A592 Truetrac differential. Plus the gears, of course.
If you wanted to assemble yourself, you would have to worry about the locker number. Besides, that is the wrong number. 913A589 is the correct number for the 3.73 and down JK application. Why not get an ARB? Right now you get a free CKSA12 compressor with your ARB purchase (yes even in an axle assembly). Offer ends Junes 15, 2015.

Shoot me a PM with your zip code and whether it is commercial or residential. Give me details on what you want.

Have a blessed and prosperous day!

Allen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
508 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Eaton Model: Application: Axle Shafts: Gear Ratios: 913A592 Dana 44 30 Spline 3.92 +
This Eaton TrueTrac locker fits Dana 44 reverse rotation front axles with 30 spline axle shafts.

This was copied from a website, most parts places I checked online agree with this.
The + means numerically higher, not a higher gear ratio.

So, this should work for 4:10, 4:56, 4:88, 5:13, and so on. :)
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
5,579 Posts
Eaton Model: Application: Axle Shafts: Gear Ratios: 913A592 Dana 44 30 Spline 3.92 +
This Eaton TrueTrac locker fits Dana 44 reverse rotation front axles with 30 spline axle shafts.

This was copied from a website, most parts places I checked online agree with this.
The + means numerically higher, not a higher gear ratio.

So, this should work for 4:10, 4:56, 4:88, 5:13, and so on. :)
Yes! For a std D44, not the JK. You have to run the number I posted.

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128302.pdf Page 6 on the right hand side. All ratios use 3.73 and down carrier for the JK D44.

Allen
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top