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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some tips for tracing out an issue on my 06 Wrangler.

Swapped out the valve cover gasket on my 4.0 TJ. As I finished up and tried to start it, I had forgotten to connect the Intake Air Temperature sensor. Got a small backfire and no start. Connected the IAT Sensor and retried to start, but nothing except the fuel pump seemed to be actuated.

The question is what are the likely places where I may have damaged a wire or connector that would result in no key activity. I would swear there was a slight smell of something electrical, but no smoke or anything obvious. It is responding just like when the Ignition Switch Actuator Pin broke about 9 months ago. Sure seems suspicious that it would break at the time I had just been crawling around in the engine compartment wrestling with the Valve Cover replacement.

PS, I get no error codes from OBDII on my tester and if I hold in the odometer reset button while turning the ignition key to start, I also get no error codes reported.

Thanks for any clues!
 

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Best guess is unrelated to valve cover you had a failure/break of the actuator pin in key switch


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'03 TJ 4.0L 5sp
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Not connecting the IAT isn't going to keep it from starting.
There's a big wire bundle that goes around the back of the valve cover. Perhaps there were some chaffed wires and when you moved the harness while working on the valve cover you caused them to ground out(thus the burning smell). Maybe you pinched a wire under the valve cover.
Always look at the last thing you touched before it started acting up.
 

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It is easy to remove the column covers & the one bolt holding the ignition switch to the actuator & separate them. Then you can check the actuator tip & turn the switch with a screwdriver to see if it will start.

As for possible damaged wires behind the engine, that is more likely to be crank, no start than no crank but worth checking the harness back there.

No crank can be a park/neutral or clutch switch problem but do not think any related wires go behind the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It is easy to remove the column covers & the one bolt holding the ignition switch to the actuator & separate them. Then you can check the actuator tip & turn the switch with a screwdriver to see if it will start.

As for possible damaged wires behind the engine, that is more likely to be crank, no start than no crank but worth checking the harness back there.

No crank can be a park/neutral or clutch switch problem but do not think any related wires go behind the engine.
Thank you for the info on wires behind engine. I replaced the plastic split loom since it was crumbling so that was a concern.
Looking into the actuator pin again. Hoping that’s it but if so what a coincidence. Just replaced it back in June of 21.
 

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If not next big test is placing in neutral or park and touching plus 12 from battery positive to small terminal on solenoid on side of starter and reporting if that makes it crank briskly


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Will do. Am checking Actuator Pin now but just broke my cheap T10 safety bit. Going to get one somewhere other than Harbor Freight.
 

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X2, use a small punch pin etc. to break the security pin in the bolt off. It's brittle so it snaps off pretty easily.
 
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