Jeep Wrangler Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend took his '05 TJ to a pretty well known aftermarket dealer and had a 4" Pro Comp lift installed, and they left in the factory Pitman arm.

He passed away last month, and his wife asked me to look at it, since it had major death wobble.. It developed it almost immediately after the install, and they "fixed it" for am additional $300 and dual stabilizers.

Interestingly, Pro Comp makes a 4" lift Pitman arm, the drag link looks funky, and the wobble is coming back with a vengeance! Everything else looks fine.

What's the consensus on the arm being the problem, and why wouldn't they have changed it in the first place?
 

·
Mostly old school..!
Joined
·
12,149 Posts
You should never use a dropped pitman arm unless there is a drop from the original the track bar mount (which is not common). A line drawm between the two end points of the trackbar should be as parallel as posible with the drag link.

First two things I would check would be for any play in the track bar ends, and see if the toe-in is set to spec.

The dual stabilizers are doing nothing (maybe helping to mask a dw problem that's still there) other than making the steering pump work harder. You should go back to stock on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,524 Posts
The height of the springs has nothing to do with the pitman arm drop requirements. In your case, the stock pitman arm should be used and the track bar is likely incorrect. Your wobbles are not due to the stock pitman arm being in place but are more than likely due to the crappy PC front track bar and drop bracket being used. To verify, determine what's loose/worn and fix it. It's really that simple. The dealership is just going to overcharge while not getting anywhere....a double steering stabilizer is the fix of morons. Quit wasting time and money with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The track bar looks good, and we spent about an hour checking everything else. Probably wore a bit off the bottoms of the tires going back and forth and lock to lock. The BFG AT-T/A's are about 50% gone, but were balanced and rotated about 1000 mi. before the wobble started.

What got me going on the dropped pitman arm was a click at the arm whenever we went to hard left or right, and the fact that the geometry really looks funny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,524 Posts
You don't need to go lock to lock to expose a loose or worn part. You just need to load the parts and go the opposite direction.....11 to 1 is all that's needed.

What did all steering linkage connections and track bar connections tell you? What about the control arm bushings when you load the tires back and forth?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything looked a**hole tight. Going to start throwing stuff at it (Scientifically) tomorrow, starting with a wheel balance and a single good stabilizer, after torque spec'cing everything else.

From a touchy-feely standpoint, it all feels good under there. Let's cross our fingers!

The guy has been an avid Jeeper for over 20 years, and up and got cancer on us. She'd rather keep the Jeep than her Saturn, in his memory, but can't handle driving through the DW. I hope I can take care of it for her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
It may look tight, it may feel tight. if its worn, it won't take much wear to know.
I got rid of mine little by little by replacing parts:
Track bar, bushing clunked
Tie rods were loose.
Steering gear box was off
drag link tie rod end was blown
had a little jiggle in the steering wheel
wheel pointed to the left all the time even after an alignment.
when I replaced all the parts, it went away.
They all looked good. none of them moved. but all together they caused a good shake at hwy speeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My biggest question is why not to change the stock pitman arm to a dropped arm after the lift. Seems logical to me; must I'm an Electrical Engineer, not Mechanical.

Too damn old and too damn late to try now! :popcorn:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,524 Posts
Because it doesn't hurt anything to keep it.

If you drop the pitman arm, you need to drop the frame end of the track bar by the same amount. The difference in arc length will result in bump steer if the mounting points are not parallel. When you drop those two down, you lose up travel potential and gain nothing that will ever be realized by flattening the links.

On that note, most track bar drop brackets are terribly designed both for clearance and proper fastening. The leverage on the mount usually results in frequent loosening.....whicn results in steering play and wobbles from mild to wild.

The proper way to address a TJ that's over stock height is by retaining the stock pitman arm and going with a quality track bar from Currie or Metalcloak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Because it doesn't hurt anything to keep it.

If you drop the pitman arm, you need to drop the frame end of the track bar by the same amount. The difference in arc length will result in bump steer if the mounting points are not parallel. When you drop those two down, you lose up travel potential and gain nothing that will ever be realized by flattening the links.

On that note, most track bar drop brackets are terribly designed both for clearance and proper fastening. The leverage on the mount usually results in frequent loosening.....whicn results in steering play and wobbles from mild to wild.

The proper way to address a TJ that's over stock height is by retaining the stock pitman arm and going with a quality track bar from Currie or Metalcloak.
Moochas! Going with the Currie, and staying stock with the arm. The PC does look cheesy.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top