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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to the Jeep world and realize splicing wires and drilling holes in dashes will become common place but for now, it's a little scary. I've done my fair share of audio installations but never spliced directly into factory wiring. I am ready to install my XRC Gen2 rear bumper and I would like to hook up the LED backup/Aux lights. Has anyone done this yet and can help me understand how you hooked up the wiring? If I understand it right, if I use the yellow Aux wire the backup lights will work and I will still be able to use the switch if I want to have full lighting.

Any help with this would be appreciated as I am a newbie and messing with a 2015 that's still under warranty has me a little nervous. Smittybilt has some great products but their instructions leave something to be desired.
 

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If it were me...I would not splice into the CANBUS system of the Jeep.

Products like the sPod were developed to have a standalone electrical system independent of the Jeep CANBUS.

I may be wrong...but the "flaming Jeep" situation may be caused by people who have messed with the factory wiring.

I home ran a pair of 12GA wires from each rear taillight housing....to my sPOD for rear lights.

Its alot of work pulling wiring for a system like this....but worth it just for the peace of mind in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I gotta figure your warranty will be at risk as well if the dealer sees that you spliced into the CANBUS.
Thanks for the feedback. At the risk of sounding naive, what is CANBUS? With these bumpers the only splicing is one yellow wire and it is to allow the lights to function as backup lights so I think the splicing is into the power feed to the backup lights. I can hook them up as just work lights controlled by a switch and that requires no splicing, just some battery connection, grounding, and slight drilling to install the switch in the dash.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. At the risk of sounding naive, what is CANBUS? With these bumpers the only splicing is one yellow wire and it is to allow the lights to function as backup lights so I think the splicing is into the power feed to the backup lights. I can hook them up as just work lights controlled by a switch and that requires no splicing, just some battery connection, grounding, and slight drilling to install the switch in the dash.

Even though it is 1 wire...it will increase the draw.

CANBUS is a wiring system the communicates accross itself. Example: Did you know if you blow your front turn signal bulb, the dash will let you know? Every command for a Jeep goes to the computer..and that computer can get signals over the wiring.

Your adding lights may be enough draw to cause problems...or it may not and work fine.

I decided to NEVER cut into CANBUS when I heard of JK's catching fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To everyone that has installed the XRC Gen2 rear bumper and tire carrier, I have a few questions and need help...


1. The bumper came with two flat rectangle metal plates with four holes in them. I used both, one as a washer for the bolts that go in the middle of the bumper and the other for the same bolts but as a spacer between the factory bumper support and the XRC bumper. It worked but it seems like the bumper tilts up slightly. Did you use both?

2. Where and how did you mount the bracket for the factory four pin towing harness plug?

3. When installing the tire carrier, how did you fasten the bottom bolt on the main mounting bracket (the one that mounts to the frame and has the circular pivot bracket the carrier mounts into? It says to use one of those nuts that is attached to the long metal pole but once the bumper is on, you can't access the frame rails. Short of removing the bumper several times, I can't figure how to do it.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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I spliced into my reverse lights for the Poison Spyder LED's that get mounted in the rear brawler lite bumper. Has not been an issue at all. Mine is 2012 so it has the CANBUS BS.

I have had 2 instances where I probably skirted fires, one was my fault due to poor routing of a positive winch cable (I should have known better, this is not my first rodeo) and the other was due to crappy ebay LED fog bulbs with a bad connector that fried the entire pigtail and housing. Coincidentally, they are the ones a lot of people run on here in that big LED fog light thread though no one there has taken my warning to heart. Underneath the front bumper on that one side still smells like a burning mattress.
 

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3. When installing the tire carrier, how did you fasten the bottom bolt on the main mounting bracket (the one that mounts to the frame and has the circular pivot bracket the carrier mounts into? It says to use one of those nuts that is attached to the long metal pole but once the bumper is on, you can't access the frame rails. Short of removing the bumper several times, I can't figure how to do it.
I was really hoping for some responses to #3 about fastening the bottom bolt on the main pivot bracket. I have the same issue.

Seems to me, the only solution it to mount the bumper where you want it. Then install the pivot bracket and mark the bottom hole with a center punch. Then remove EVERYTHING (including the bumper), drill out the bottom hole and attach a bolt plate for the bottom bolt, and reinstall. If that is the professional solution, please let me know and I'll go break out my wrenches again and get after it.

Thanks,

HillcountryHusker
'09 Wrangler X
South Texas
 

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I was really hoping for some responses to #3 about fastening the bottom bolt on the main pivot bracket. I have the same issue.

Seems to me, the only solution it to mount the bumper where you want it. Then install the pivot bracket and mark the bottom hole with a center punch. Then remove EVERYTHING (including the bumper), drill out the bottom hole and attach a bolt plate for the bottom bolt, and reinstall. If that is the professional solution, please let me know and I'll go break out my wrenches again and get after it.

Thanks,

HillcountryHusker
'09 Wrangler X
South Texas

What you suggest might work, but since the bumper bracket fits between the frame rail and the pivot bracket you couldn't final tighten the lower bolt until bumper is remounted. I think it will work though.

Since it was just me by myself I didn't want to remove the bumper. Here is how I did it on my 2014 and I hope your 09 is the same. Install pivot bracket, punch, drill hole. Use one of the nut plates on the long pole as stated. As a note two of these nut plates came with bumper and none with carrier.

You'll have to bend the wire a bit, but follow the outside frame rail towards the rear tire. You find a hole on the outside of the frame rail large enough to fish it back towards the hole you drilled. A small drift through the drilled hole helps to feel where the plate is and line it up. Once the drift is through the hole and nut plate remove the drift while holding the nut plate very steady. From that point it's a luck to get the bolt to start.

Took me 20mins or so, but I got it.

Hope this helps.
 

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What you suggest might work, but since the bumper bracket fits between the frame rail and the pivot bracket you couldn't final tighten the lower bolt until bumper is remounted. I think it will work though.

Since it was just me by myself I didn't want to remove the bumper. Here is how I did it on my 2014 and I hope your 09 is the same. Install pivot bracket, punch, drill hole. Use one of the nut plates on the long pole as stated. Note two of these and nut plates came with bumper and none with carrier.

You'll have to bend the wire a bit, but follow the outside frame rail towards the rear tire. You find a hole on the outside of the frame rail large enough to fish it back towards the hole you drilled. A small drift through the drilled hole helps to feel where the plate is and line it up. Once the drift is through the hole and nut plate remove the drift while holding the nut plate very steady. From that point it's a luck to get the bolt to start.

Took me 20mins or so, but I got it.

Hope this helps.
Thank you very much.

I'll give that a try first. If I get frustrated I'll give my idea a try. I really appreciate your suggestion, I didn't think of doing that. It's certainly worth a try.
 

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If you are worried about drawing too much amp by splicing into factory reverse wire, keep in mind that tow package just adds a Y harness to factory harness to send reverse / brake / running lights to a trailer. cleaner / fancier way of splicing, but essentially same thing.

If you are worried about actually performing the splice (cutting / soldering), just get a factory tow harness - they are cheap - and tie into that for your bumper lights.
 
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