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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just stumbled upon this forum... Gotta say, i like the focus just on wranglers!! Gonna fast track my build here and take it to today :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After much contemplation, flipping back and forth, reviewing finances, getting the blessings from the boss, checking my psyche, i have decided to go ahead with implanting the HEMI into the Yellow TJ that i bought Sept 2012. After selling O.D. in October 2010, i have been unable to sleep. Nightmares routinely ruin my nights and i randomly break out in sweats. At least that's the story i am going with....... I have decided that to ensure that the rest of the TJ will match up with the ponies i am adding to the 2004 Rubi i bought in Sept 2012:

- Tons
- An ATLAS 3.8.1
- Triangulated rear, stretched about 4-5", ORI's
- Hylined front and rear
- Drop down tailgate
- 40's on beadlocks
- Hydro Assist

My first concern were the axles. I did not want to go full width as i still want to fly under the radar on the roads with this and still make it through the narrow trails around here without having to climb up the sides of every tree. I kept my eyes open on most boards on a very regular basis. There was always something missing (Either the gearing, steering or width or carrier). I then pondered the notion of getting a set cut down (Not having the skills / tools to do it myself) and I even went so far as to buy a set of early '80's but as i researched more and more i found that to be too expensive and tedious. I considered buying new already built but once i started seeing the $$$, i said fakk that. I had pretty much given up, even had the custom frame and HEMI setup up for sale and then bam.... Found the axles off Pirates. 13hrs of driving later after less than 48hrs of coming across them online (As I had to re-act as the seller had a lineup to buy them), I had them in my possession.

- 1979 D60 Snowfighter, cut down to 65"WMS, dutchman 35 splines, detroit, 5.13's, setup for XJ, coils and hydro assist.
- Mid-80's CC 14 Bolt, disc's, detroit and 5.13's, setup for triangulated rear and coils


Still fit in the garage.... This is key. I had taken some measurements on Yello with the 35's and i had about 1/2" or clearance

I gotta say, at first i hated the yellow color but now after wheeling for a year, it's actually not that bad.



Some pics of progress to date:

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Started working on the front suspension.. Had to notch the HEMI skid plate to setup the front CA's. Still need to center it all and tighten down the bolts but so far it looks good:


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Lined up the motor mounts and welded them in:


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Been busy!!!




On the D60.. I just decided to cut the brackets off. Ordered some replacements from TMR and got that in place. Man those existing brackets were a P I T A to get off:











Also finally got the 14 bolt rebuilt and put back together. Still missing a caliper (Gotta pick it up) and i want to add a pinion guard. But other than that, all the bearings, races and seals are good to go.









Then started mocking up the rear.. Since the tub wasn't on, i lay the stretch corners on the tub, found the center, then related that to the body mount at the back. Then transposed that to the frame for reference on where the center would be with a 4" stretch.







I started doubting myself a bit too much though and after a while i decided that i'd be better off just putting the tub back on for mock up. I would have needed to anyways for the next step of putting the motor in so....


I had so much problems though removing it with the cage and windshield on that i decided to first remove these.






Before putting the tub back on, i decided to also put the stretch tank in just in case there are issues with clearance on the 14bolt. Even though it didn't call for it, i decided to notch the rear crossmember as the tank was hitting this part when i had it tightened up. The tank has different mounting and i had to sleeve a hole through the frame rail. Not a big deal however I hope the fakk it does not interfere with the rear shock towers....:












 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Then i dropped the tub onto the frame. With the cage/windshield off, it was much easier than the removal






Once on, i bolted up / clamped on the body armor:













Next steps are:


- Get the rear panels properly lined up and then trim the sheet metal!!
- Once that's done, i'll then setup the rear suspension.
- From what i can see, i will have to trim the front of the rear crossmember to clear the 14Bolt
- Hoping that within the next few weeks, i should have my ORI's and can then mock them up.
- Then drop the motor in and see what fits!!




From what i have read, one needs a 1" body lift to clear the ATLAS. Not a necessity but a suggestion. I really don't want to run a body lift, mainly because that very well will push me over my threshold on height to get in/out of the garage!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bit of an update..

I set everything in place on the rear. From what i can see, i have about 5" up on the rear and about 5-6" up on the front PROVIDED i run a remote oil filter. Steering is going to be TIIIIEEEIGHT!!. I May still cut the LCA mounts off and point them down moreso, thus increasing the gap between the LCA's and the Frame underside. I have the room in the fenders.


I set the Motor/Tranny/TC in place and that all lined up nicely.

After test setting the tub, it was obvious i was going to need a BL.. Installed the 1" BL and STILL could not clear the ATLAS. So, in a moment of stupor i cut into the tub floor!

It fits now.
































 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Had a good morning!! Ended up trimming the hood to fit the highline fenders. Turned out not bad. Had to take about 3" all along the edge. Some of the cross channels then had to be sanded down to give proper clearance. I am just going to run door edge trim along the cut (Picked some up at Cdn Tire).


Also was able to flip the caliper on one side of the 14 bolt. What a pain it was to get the existing caliper bracket off.. The new bracket bolted to the existing drum flange. Because i had already ground off the back of the flange to clear the rear shock mount, i had to cut off a bit of the bracket and only run 3 bolts to mount instead of 4. I don't see it has a problem though..

At this point, the rear is done. I have full clearance, about 7" upwards and 7" downwards travel.



























 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Front is done!! I decided to change it up significantly as i was just not happy with the setup. Went with a custom truss to fit the 65" WMS and re-jigged the rest... Very very beef!!! Everythings just loosely bolted together and i have not yet set ride height... Those will come. For now, it is ready for full tear down again for hopefully the last time, fix the hole in the floor, start sanding/primer/paint basically everything, final welds, fuel, cooling, TC support bracket, flip the other rear caliper, sway bars, setup shifters for tranny and TC, start work on the engine wiring, tranny cooler, driveshafts, exhaust, finish hydro assist setup and a shit load of misc items... Yeah.... We're almost there !!!!

























 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Short update.. I have been struggling to find free time to get this rig all finished. I tore it all down back to the bare frame and final welded everything, cleaned it up and shot it with primer / paint.
When i had it all together, i noticed that the Tie Rod was a limiting factor on the upwards travel on the Passenger. So i decided to notch the frame a bit to give it that extra 1-2" or so. At first i didn't know what to use to plate the opening but then noticed that the cutout on the frame in the rear where i frenched the shock towers in was perfect to fill the opening and bam.. Worked like a charm:








Then i tore the 14 bolt apart one last time. I removed the other old caliper bracket, ground down the OE drum brake mount a bit for clearance and also cut off one more time the rear shock mounts and tilted them up as much as possible so as leave me as much downward travel as possible. When i had it on a hoist, i noticed that the rear was not drooping down as much as the front was so this will help a bit more. Installed the new CC caliper brackets to the front of the axle, torqued the spindles (Finally bit the bullet and bought a spindle nut socket) and buttoned it all up. Shot it with primer and black paint. Still have to shoot the GLO diff cover, seal it up, install the pinion guard, fill it up with oil and run the brake lines.






This evening i started in on the front 60. Degreased it, threw primer on it and will let it dry for the night... Depending on weather, i might be able to get at it a bit tomorrow night...








The rest of the TJ is in here somewhere....




 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Shits coming along but fakk it's slow....


Started cleaning up the tub.

- Cut off a bit of the C channel near the rear to accomodate Cage Tie-Ins.
- Repaired the big gash of a hole i cut into the floor in a fit of rage and a bunch of pints trying to fit an ATLAS (Ended up realizing all i had to do was clock the ATLAS..... ). First time welding sheetmetal. Did not bad. Was able to re-use almost all the pieces that i had originally cut out.

Then decided to plate the frame notch. Wasn't going to but after thinking about it a bit more. With the torque from the antirock and possibly a winch, it's probably a wise move to do it now..
































 

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Very nice build!
 

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Wow, nice build! If I had the cash (and an understanding wife), I'd build my new JKR as an expedition rig and get a TJ to build up like this for bashing on the technical trails. Maybe one day....

Subscribed!! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Small update. Finally got my TC support in place. I had a fakk of a time with clearance and alignment but i finally got it to work. Had some parts powdercoated as well.

I hope to get the tub back on this weekend. I need to first though:

- Get the Shifters setup on the ATLAS
- Get my fuel / vac and brake lines run to the back
- Setup the wiring harness



















 
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