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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I picked up a set of axles from a '74 bronco that were under a YJ. I have a D30/D44 with 33's and want to go to 35's or 37's. I didn't really have to swap the axle I know. But I want it bomb proof and still DD-able. Both axles converted to discs, the rear has weld on brackets. The rear 9 has the oh-so-binging True Hi9 with an ARB and 4.86 gears. Converted to big bearing, and 35 spline MOSER axles. It can handle the 37's with ease with my 4.0L. The front has flat top knuckles with high steer and 1 ton steering, manual lockout hubs, ARB, 4.88 gears and chromo axles. It also can handle the 37's. The guy had 35's and was building a monster engine for it till the storage unit the jeep was stored in caught on fire! Aparently there was a Meth lab next door.. Oh and the front is a LP44, I might or might not source a HP.

My plans are to do a triangulated 4-link in rear and a 3 link with trackbar front with the option of running a 4th link on the street. The rear will stay with coils for now and the front will get ORI struts(already ordered back in January). The 9 has a 1350 yoke and I got a 1350 cv driveshaft with it, I doubt I will use it and go with a 1330 DS instead. The DS I got needs a rebuild and is rusted up. Sadly I already had a SYE kit ordered with a 1310 yoke that I will have to now find a 1330 yoke to keep from having to use 3 different u-joints in the DS.

Anyway, yesterday was the official start of the project as I started to work on cutting off all the brackets. And I got halfway done with grinding down the welds till dinner arrived.




 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also I ordered all the mounts for the rear axle and frame to be 4-linked. I want to truss it to make the EB 9" stronger and to make it even easier to weld on the UCA mounts. Looking at Ruff Stuff's medium truss. I want something that fits real tight over the top of the 9". I want one that was actually made for a 9 and not a fits all one.

I am still looking around for suspension links and tubing. I was thinking of getting IronMan4x4 to make some up for me but I need this thing drivable soon after I get out the D44. And actually I already sold it. They are waiting on me now. It is coming out regardless if I am ready or not to hand it over to the new owner.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Been held back because I had to get my Jeep inspected. I really needed to do this before I swapped out the axles. And of course I failed for 3 things. 1. need an alignment(said I had tow out also my steering wheel is at a 90 degree to the right). 2. A fog light is out? who cares. 3. And my Delta quad bars are apparently not DOT approved! I told them it says so on the package it came in but they said they didn't see the right stamping on the lens.

I decided to fix all the problems and not go somewhere else because they didn't say anything about me not having rear fenders, my flush taillights, or comment on my parking brake being weak. Which would be bigger problems.

I shortened my track bar 2" to be able to align my steering wheel correctly and fixed my alignment. I also connected my steering stabilizer that wasn't even connected to my steering, I'm surprised they didn't say anything about that. Found both the power and ground on my fog light were frayed at different points and repaired them. Double checked my headlights and found no DOT stamping on them. The delta's have a built in retaining ring not requiring your stock one and sadly I threw all of it away. I bought retaining rings and headlights just for inspections. The Delta quad bar lights are not DOT but they are certified by Euro standards and for use in right hand drive countries... weird. Will be getting a re-inspection at lunch.

Oh and I finally hooked up this horn I found from a Bronco while rummaging through Pick-a-part a few months ago. The Bronco horn has a lower tone and the dual tone is sounding great. I find it ironic that I picked up this Bronco horn and I am now installing bronco axles in my Jeep. While I was taking the horn I was eying that 9". At least I know where to go for spare parts for the lock out hub that got burned off. Or maybe I should go with the Warn premium hubs that are made out of brass instead of plastic.

Here's a pic to keep it interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, a little update. I got some brackets in on Friday and got the front truss on Monday. I'm still missing the lower frame brackets. The rest of my parts better get here fast.




Oh and I ordered Ruff Stuff's old design at the discount but they sent their new design.. score!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just spent another few hundred on suspension parts. DOM, treaded inserts, and 8 suspension joints. Got my rear truss and it looks great. It can't be angled and goes on only one way so I am going to weld it on today. The truss is almost exactly what I wanted. The only thing that could make it better would be if the top section came in one piece. The base is 3/8" and the top is 1/4", and since my housing is all steel I can weld it all the way around. It's going to take me hours to weld it on slow enough not to warp the tubes. I also grinded the rest of the welds down smooth and popped the cover off the D44. It looks like it got some heat and the oil is muddy. Also found out I have a 3.5mm ARB air line. Which means it's really good that I checked as I almost bought the wrong connectors. It also means my ARB is either the new version or the line was changed out as the most common line is 3/16" and the less common line of 1/8"





Oh and I saw this at a mall yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I clamped some scrap to the top plate and tacked it together.


Welded all the outside seams of the base plate, waiting for it to cool to do the inside.



I don't like the skid and thinking about taking it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finished the the base and tacked on the top. Took another break to let it cool.


 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm finally done for the night. I still got some welding to finish on it but it is 1 in the morning... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I decided to keep the skid. It is beefing up the bottom of the housing and the rear bars will keep me from puncturing the stamped steel rear. Maybe in another few years I'll get a custom made housing to get rid of the 37 year old housing and tubes. Also 3 1/2" x 3/8" thick axle tubes sounds nice.


Anyway, I finished the welding on the truss and got it all sanded down and primered to keep it from rusting.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the Jeep on jack stands. Lubed all the bolt. Took off the lower control arms. I always knew my control arms were bad. I took out the control arm and both of the inner sleeves for the bushings just fell right out. I took one inside to get a shot of it with my replacements.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the old axle out. Things are so much easier when you have help.

Rear D44 finally out and ready to be picked up for more money to work with!



I ordered 6 more joints for the front 3 link. Going with Ruff Stuff's 3/4" heim for the track bar links. Also ordered a 1350 flange for my transfercase as I decided to use the big monster of a drive shaft. A 1350 1-ton from High Angle Driveshafts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yesterday I got some more work done.
I'm not going to let 50 degree weather and a constant downpour stop me. I removed the exhaust, both driveshafts, drained the t-case oil and got all but two bolts out. Then headlight beams hit me and a man stepped infront of the light and proclaimed that my pizza had arrived to be continued.
 

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Looks Great! Where did the inverted 9" third member come from? I didnt think they were high pinion in the early Bronco. I ask because I'm putting a 9" in my CJ right now and havnt dont the third member yet. I would love to have the high pinion.
Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
It's a True Hi9, 35 spline, ARB, with 4.86 gears.
All stock 9" are low pinions. There are 2 aftermarket companies making high pinion 9" 3rd members. Currie and True Hi9. Currie's is weaker using the ford 8.8 ring gear. The True Hi9 made after curries(probably why they call them "true hi9") Uses custom made reverse rotation 9" ring and pinions. They also have two thrust bolts to help with the natural deflection of using a reverse rotation in the rear. My ring and pinion is stronger than a D60 anyday; and with my 35 spline shafts I'm not going to break them with any less than 38" tires. Though the true hi9 costs a good bit more. I got mine at a steal of a deal. Also ture hi9 sells complete assemblies only, so before you say the price is outrageous, price up building one fully. It's still more, but it's stronger and better.

Currie Hi9
True Hi9
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the t-case out. Installed the SYE and my yoke flange. I got it back in the jeep and all filled up. Now going to get the flat trans skid all cut up and aligned to my tranny mount.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Finally finished with all the grinding of the welds from the old mounts. Also sanded down the skid and trans mount and primed them.


 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea... it's hard to keep up when I am trying to keep a build thread going in like 5 different places. anyway I am going to post what I got over the other threads

Posted on May 23
I got back from a week long work trip this Saturday and very little done due to all the yard work that was waiting from me. The three days before my trip it rained so I couldn't mow before I left. With only 3 weeks of growth my yard looked like a mini jungle. My wife even said the cat was stalking my dog like a jungle cat and even pounced on her(the dog) a few times. It took two full tanks of gas in the lawnmower to get the lawn mowed. Oh and the handle for the self-propelled controller broke the second I turned it on, my front is all hills and the back is some hills with holes all over the place due to damn voles.

Anyway. I got the first of two drivetrain supports on. Had the sides bolted up and test fitted the crossmember a bunch of times and hit it with a grinder till it fit. Tacked it in place, then removed it all for final welding. I can cut up the second one on the table then will have to mount it up under the jeep before I tack it in place to ensure it lines up good enough.







Posted on May 27th
The last two days I did some more. Wednesday I fitted and tacked up the second support for the crossmember. Yesterday I welded it solid and wire brushed it to bare metal.



After I took this pic I shortened the ends to right before the bolt holes and plated them. As I was plating them it got dark and the bugs were going crazy! They were inside my welding masks so I decided to call it a day. Also I don't like using power tools after dark with no garage. I can only piss of my neighbors so much. I put a coat of primer on it to keep it from rusting. Today when I get home I am going to finish any welding I need to do then drill the holes in the skid plate to mount it up to the crossmember. Then paint it all up and then I can get to the axle brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
DAMN you weather!!!

 
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