Jeep Wrangler Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
One of the Sam reasons I want a Jeep. I had a 1980 tr7 to time keeping with but I started having parts go that were really hard to find.

I like having a bit of a project when I have the parts available.
 

·
Los Angeles
Joined
·
989 Posts
Agreed^^^
I have had 78-79 F250s and the aftermarket support is just not there. Plus living in California, everything has to be stock, in the area I live in. Then you have 16.5” wheels that are hard to buy for. And at the end of the day you still have a carb so you can get only 1/4 up a trail anyway.

Never thought I would be happy with a little Jeep and a measley 4.0 liter, but it is working out just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Yep. I bought mine just because I wanted a 5 speed commuter that would still have a fun factor. Bought the first one I looked at, paid too much because I didn't know better, and haven't stopped smiling since. :)

RichnSteph
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
That's awesome. I'm hoping for the same. Saw two more today at a side dealer, so there are plenty of options.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I have an 89 I found here in nepa, no rust, they are out there, ran good until I, well you can see my post. It’s my first Jeep in my 56 years.. I dig it, plus these guys are really helpful. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
Hiya-

We are in south-central PA (York County) - purchased a 95 YJ that was a PA Jeep for most of its life, bone stock with most maintenance done by a mechanic. We actually bought it while living in MD so tagged it historic, but we're getting regular tags up in PA. Mileage is about the same as the one you're looking at. Inspection repairs came to a whopping $150 to replace a brake line (good shop recommended to us in Fawn Grove that has experience with YJ's). Has this thing been inspected recently? Perhaps you could look into the shop that's passing it if so.

Ours came with soft and hard top, full and half doors. The soft top does need to be replaced, but it was the original so not a huge deal. We ended up selling the full doors and top to someone for an incredible $500. We also got a replacement windshield frame because there is a leak that comes in through the existing windshield frame and pools in that passenger footwell. That bit hasn't been replaced yet, but I learned to park it on the right hill angle to drain that water out. Frame looks good, no major rust, and again, no major work needed. It starts every time and was the DD for the prior owner until he won a new JKU in a raffle.

Purchase price? $4000. I've been told it's cleaner than some newer ones the inspection shop has seen. We also recovered the money from the top and doors we sold, so really $3500 and this thing has proven pretty reliable so far.

My advice would be to keep an eye out. There are a lot of nasty condition YJs out there, but we got lucky with an old guy who needed to get an excess "car" out of his driveway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,087 Posts
For years the plant where I worked (in the office) had a car wash for employees to drive through and remove the dust that settled on the cars during the day. It was a simple pipe with holes drilled in it that went up and over.

Never had an issue with it except for my '91 and '93 YJs (both purchased new). Every time I would go through water would come in on the passenger side under the dash. The solution - I wouldn't take them through it. Never had an issue when hand washing either one or in the rain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Was wondering if the drilled hole is actually the factory drain hole. All soft top vehicles have them. The frame is what would scare me. The rest is not a big deal. And yeah you can dump a fortune in one just like anything else, but you can also run one with very little expense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Was wondering if the drilled hole is actually the factory drain hole. All soft top vehicles have them. The frame is what would scare me. The rest is not a big deal. And yeah you can dump a fortune in one just like anything else, but you can also run one with very little expense.

It wasn't. It was off to the side in a spot that the water wasn't even going near. It was a strange spot for a hole and it didn't look factory at all. To me it looked like an attempt to band-aide the water problem instead of fixing it.


Regardless, I passed on that Jeep. I found one up in NY that I'm going to look at tomorrow. It has holes in the floor pan, BUT the price is really good so it may make it worth it. Based on the photos, the frame is in really good shape, new top and tires, new clutch. Owner says it runs really well, just needs the floor fixed. I need to call my shop though and make sure repaired floor pans will pass PA inspection before I do anything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
https://imgur.com/apSEjkQ


Picked up a jeep today! It's in pretty good shape for it's age. Frame is good. Some floor rust that I'll need to patch but he included the pan. Shifts and runs good. New clutch, differential gearing repaired (shop said he had a loose pin), new top, new tires etc...

Only thing I don't like is the seats. They have GM seats with electrical wiring that isn't hooked up so they can't be adjusted. I'd like to go back to stock with those. Fun drive though. I dig it. Pic is in the link above!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Thanks. I cleaned up the engine yesterday and it looks like a valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket needs to be done. It's not without issues that's for sure. For the price with repairs though, I'm way under budget (so far, I know that will change).



It's pretty loud and it may have a slight knock that I'm going to need to troubleshoot. It sat for a bit so it may be a lifter.



Anyone know the approximate labor costs of an engine swap in case this turns out to be an issue? Doesn't seem to hard to do, but i may leave it to pros.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,647 Posts
What worked for me to cure a noisy lifter (4.2) was a couple treatments of Seafoam. The first one helped a lot and the secons treatment cured it. I don't drive all that much, so an oil & filter with service twice a year keeps everything functioning.

Another annoying noise I has was my timing chain slapping against the inside of the timing cover. A new timing set cured that.

What seems to be the case on many of these old heaps, is the PO puts off maintenance items like oil changes and lube jobs. Then once the vehicle craps out, those of us that are mechanically inclined, buy them (hopefully cheap) and go through them to bring them back to reliability.

Good Luck, L.M.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Kibbis I had the tap too, I have a new head on the way, I was gonna do the lifters anyway but I made a mess with the existing one. I’m not going to do the cam(I’m not a mechanic) however I’m gonna take my time and get it back up and going. Maybe I should have listened to some of the more experienced guys here and tried the seafoam.
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top